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  • From
    Houston, Texas
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    '88 911 3.2
    '98 Boxster
    '99 996

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Jameslovesporsches's Achievements


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  1. So, got rid of the P0455 code with a new gas cap! However, still getting P1123 and P1125 codes. I found an earlier post from Loren, but don't really understand how to look into the suggestions: Initially, I was thinking a MAF sensor cleaning was in order, but that's just me guessing. Need some direction... please help. EVAP canister purge valve... where around the rear of the car do I find it? Thanks for the assistance. James
  2. Tool Pants, On my car, the area of the set screw feels wiggly. Like it's a somewhat loose, is this normal? Or is this area supposed to have little to no flex? I can easily push the clamshell side to side when it is in the air, don't know if this is normal. Thank you. James
  3. Can anybody detail their knowledge about the "slides" for adjusting the Boxster's clamshell? The two front corners of my clamshell are equally lower (not completely flush) with the rest of the car's body. Any suggestions? I was thinking of just yanking on each side by hand to try to get the front of the clamshell flush with the rest of the car. Thanks for the help. James
  4. Hey everyone, Got those 3 codes on a 99 996 tiptronic. P1123, P1125, and P0455. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot. Could all 3 be linked to a gas cap problem (esp P0455)? Also, does anyone know what needs to be fixed to pass inspection in Texas. Codes were read using an Actron basic code reader. Thanks again. James
  5. I am going to flush out my brake fluid and have decided on the Ate blue. However, I have no idea how much (how many liters?) of the brake fluid I need to buy. 98 Boxster. Thanks. James
  6. On the subject of shifter cables, 986Jim, would 1st and 2nd gear "unclear" shift gates be due to need for cable adjustment? From my 5 speed, there are only 2 cables. Could it be that one of the attachments is off spec? I don't think the cables can be adjusted, but I'm not sure. I've only heard that the stick shift can be aligned (and that's it's almost never out of alignment). Is the metal arm under the car (connecting transmission to one of the 2 shifting cables) what people refer to as the shift linkage? How often does that metal arm get bent or otherwise out of spec? Thanks. James
  7. I definitely have wanted to blame my own shifting technique. But I really don't know if it's all my fault. You see, shifting from 1-2 is just very strange. I can go from a stop in 1st gear until say 20 mph, then want to shift into 2nd with the clutch all the way down and no gas, and I'll have to wait until the tach drops down to idling basically before 2nd engages w/o difficulty. Please assess my shifting technique. How is one supposed to do the 1-2 shift smoothly. I really want to believe nothing is wrong with my transmission and that it's all me. James
  8. So, I'm beginning to feel that my transmission is not completely normal. I have a 98 Boxster with the 5 speed manual. Clutch seems completely fine, it's just the shifting that's worrisome. With the clutch depressed at a stop, I cannot freely access every gear like in other cars. For example, at a stop, I can sometimes select 1st, 2nd, 5th, and R, but not 3rd or 4th. At least not with ease. And if I push the transmission into 3rd, it becomes more difficult to choose other gears. Nonetheless, driving is still OK just not as pleasureable as I want it to be. I start in 1st gear, but it never slips in like silk. Shifting into 2nd is not completely smooth either, but it'll still go in w/o force. Twice, when going down an incline with the car in 1st gear at very very slow speeds, the car has even popped out of gear. Every gear is selectable/usable, the shifting is just not smooth. No grinding of the gears or other noise from the gearbox. The car has very low miles (only about 10k) and has not been abused in any way. So, I'm less inclined to think it's an internal transmission thing, at least I hope not. The symptoms have not worsened. Everything is connected under the shift boot in the cockpit. Everything is stock, no short shift kits. Is there any kind of adjustment that could be off, maybe at the cable joining the transmission itself? Or would a transmission fluid change be helpful? Any advice is appreciated. James
  9. Hey All, So, I cleaned the carbon out of the throttle body and the IACV as suggested in another Renntech post that I posted this situation in (How hard to change engine temp sensor?). There really wasn't very much carbon. A thin film on portions of the IACV and a ring in the throttle body around the butterfly valve in the closed throttle position. I also pushed the little metal "swing-door" around in the IACV and it moved freely under pressure, but wanted to swing back in place to its original resting position when I let go of it. So, from what I can tell, it appears my IACV is functioning and not corroded. However, I still have the original problem of the engine shuddering sometimes at idle. I really don't know what it could be. Are there any other suggestions? Everything in the intake/throttle body/IACV appears quite spotless, there is no check engine light, but the engine doesn't idle like it should! Truman at the PPBB board suggested a DME software update that corrects this problem and also makes the speedometer more accurate, but my dealer in Houston totally denies that such a update has ever been made available. I have posted Truman's post to me below. Please help, can anyone advise me? James More on the Software update (from archives) The DME software update was the subject of a great deal of discussion in 1999, and dealt with exactly the problem you describe. The update also improved the speedometer accuracy. You might want to check your speedometer reading when you are in top gear at excatly 3000 RPM. An unmodified DME will show 75 - 76 mph. With the update, it will show 73 - 74 mph. Here is some excellent input from Bob C., October 1999: "My service guy told me all he did was execute "Special Functions" or "Special Options" from the PST2. That took care of everything. On my receipt, it's specifically written that the fix to the speedometer was accomplished with the same fix as the one for the idle." More from Bob C.: "The DME update is a software update for the Boxster's computer(s). Like the majority of cars today, most systems in the Boxster are controlled by computer. Each dealer service department has a computer called a PST2 (Porsche System Tester 2 ...I believe it's a glorified laptop computer) that can plug straight into the Boxster's on-board computer. The PST2 can be used either to diagnose problems or to download software updates. As I understand it, Porsche occasionally releases software updates on CD. My service guy told me that he hooked up the PST2, executed "Special Functions" or "Special Options" or something like that, and then it was done. IMHO, other dealers can deny it or ignore it or call it something different than "DME update" or whatever makes them happy. All I know is that my spedometer is now more accurate by 2.5mph at 70mph, my idle is now steady with the AC on, and my transition from clutch to gas from a stop is now silky smooth." I would check for the DME software update as a first step. Truman
  10. I will clean out the throttle body and IACV this weekend, but have a few questions. 1) Are tightening torques for the screws important? 2) Is it safe to spray carb cleaner inside the IACV? 3) Is it safe to push around the flap inside the IACV? I'm worried that the flap or whatever that the IACV contains is not meant to be pushed around. Also, is cleaning the IACV the only maintenance for it or should I lubricate it too? I just don't know what to expect with the IACV, thanks. James
  11. Reefish, I haven't replaced the spark plugs recently, so I hope it isn't that. Thanks for the suggestion. James
  12. Hi all, So, blackboxster and I appear to have different problems, so I decided to start a new thread concerning my car. My 98 2.5 non egas 5 speed under 10k miles Boxster seems to be having a idle problem on every warm start and frequently cold starts IF the outside temperature is below 60-65 F. What's weird (and good) I suppose, is that the engine kinda returns to normal after I've driven it for a few minutes. There also is no Check Engine Light. This isn't a chronic engine shuddering at idle problem, but pretty short term. And when the engine shudders, it is for like a second before the DME I think recovers it. It is however, really disconcerting because the engine shudder causes the whole car to vibrate. There are 3 distinct categories that this engine shuddering can happen on my car. And each time before I start, I always wait for the 5 second countdown and before going anywhere, let the engine hunt for a stable idle. 1) Engine Cold, Outside Temperature also Cool <60-65 F. In starting, the tach shoots up to like 2000-3000, but then drops real low, causing the associated shuddering/vibration that is VERY noticeable. Then it overshoots the normal 900 or so idle by just a little before settling into normal idle. 2) Engine Warm can be off for like 2 minutes or 2 hours (but still kinda warm). Return to car to start it, starts fine unlike ex #1 and wait for it to idle stabley. Shuddering occurs later though. Shift into first gear, and start pulling into Houston's traffic. At stop-and-go (this is terrible stop and go, can't even get off the clutch completely in the few feet you can move forward), the engine shudders EACH time the engine is back into neutral to idle with the car stopped. However, this goes away once we finally get on our way with a green light and I can stay in 1st or 2nd gear for some duration. Then there's no more shuddering for the rest of the trip (the coolant doesn't even have to be completely up to temp yet either). 3) Same engine warm scenario BUT with no traffic and no upcoming stops, if I can allow the engine to run for a short while in 1st or 2nd gear at any speed, no shuddering. Loren recommended looking for carbon build up on the throttle body and cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve attached to it. And while I was looking at PCA's tech Q&A section, Scott Slausen suggests in other posts concerning idle issues to look also for any intake leaks or a bad MAF. Questions: Idle Air Control Valve/ Throttle Body and Butterfly What kind of carb (carbon/carburator?) cleaner do you guys recommend? Is the Idle Air Control Valve also cleaned with the lint free towel and carb cleaner or is it a flap of sorts that I just push to ensure it's moving well? Is it reasonable for carbon to have built up on such a low mileage but older car? Intake Leaks Can anyone tell me what components are part of the intake tubes, so I can also check them for leaks? I am also really baffled at the theory of this. I'm trying to understand why this idle issue is occuring but not all the time?!? How is it that a warm idle problem can resolve itself after driving for just a while? Am I helping calibrate my engine or some sensors by being able to run the warm engine for a little bit? Please assist me with this. I'm worried everytime the engine shudders the whole car. James
  13. Loren, is this carbon build up/ idle control valve part common causes of problems on the Boxster? Also, how does one go about fixing these two potential problem causers? Should I just remove the throttle body and blow compressed air on it? How about the idle control valve? Where is it located? Can I clean it or replace it? Thank you for the tip Loren. James
  14. Hmmm blackboxster, I was thinking that our problem was the same, but if you only experience this at cold start up and I only get it after the car has already been driven for a while, we may not be searching for the same culprit. Sorry I wasn't of any help. James
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