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Jameslovesporsches

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About Jameslovesporsches

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  • From
    Houston, Texas
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    '88 911 3.2
    '98 Boxster
    '99 996

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  1. So, got rid of the P0455 code with a new gas cap! However, still getting P1123 and P1125 codes. I found an earlier post from Loren, but don't really understand how to look into the suggestions: Initially, I was thinking a MAF sensor cleaning was in order, but that's just me guessing. Need some direction... please help. EVAP canister purge valve... where around the rear of the car do I find it? Thanks for the assistance. James
  2. Tool Pants, On my car, the area of the set screw feels wiggly. Like it's a somewhat loose, is this normal? Or is this area supposed to have little to no flex? I can easily push the clamshell side to side when it is in the air, don't know if this is normal. Thank you. James
  3. Can anybody detail their knowledge about the "slides" for adjusting the Boxster's clamshell? The two front corners of my clamshell are equally lower (not completely flush) with the rest of the car's body. Any suggestions? I was thinking of just yanking on each side by hand to try to get the front of the clamshell flush with the rest of the car. Thanks for the help. James
  4. Hey everyone, Got those 3 codes on a 99 996 tiptronic. P1123, P1125, and P0455. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot. Could all 3 be linked to a gas cap problem (esp P0455)? Also, does anyone know what needs to be fixed to pass inspection in Texas. Codes were read using an Actron basic code reader. Thanks again. James
  5. I am going to flush out my brake fluid and have decided on the Ate blue. However, I have no idea how much (how many liters?) of the brake fluid I need to buy. 98 Boxster. Thanks. James
  6. On the subject of shifter cables, 986Jim, would 1st and 2nd gear "unclear" shift gates be due to need for cable adjustment? From my 5 speed, there are only 2 cables. Could it be that one of the attachments is off spec? I don't think the cables can be adjusted, but I'm not sure. I've only heard that the stick shift can be aligned (and that's it's almost never out of alignment). Is the metal arm under the car (connecting transmission to one of the 2 shifting cables) what people refer to as the shift linkage? How often does that metal arm get bent or otherwise out of spec? Thanks. James
  7. I definitely have wanted to blame my own shifting technique. But I really don't know if it's all my fault. You see, shifting from 1-2 is just very strange. I can go from a stop in 1st gear until say 20 mph, then want to shift into 2nd with the clutch all the way down and no gas, and I'll have to wait until the tach drops down to idling basically before 2nd engages w/o difficulty. Please assess my shifting technique. How is one supposed to do the 1-2 shift smoothly. I really want to believe nothing is wrong with my transmission and that it's all me. James
  8. So, I'm beginning to feel that my transmission is not completely normal. I have a 98 Boxster with the 5 speed manual. Clutch seems completely fine, it's just the shifting that's worrisome. With the clutch depressed at a stop, I cannot freely access every gear like in other cars. For example, at a stop, I can sometimes select 1st, 2nd, 5th, and R, but not 3rd or 4th. At least not with ease. And if I push the transmission into 3rd, it becomes more difficult to choose other gears. Nonetheless, driving is still OK just not as pleasureable as I want it to be. I start in 1st gear, but it nev
  9. Hey All, So, I cleaned the carbon out of the throttle body and the IACV as suggested in another Renntech post that I posted this situation in (How hard to change engine temp sensor?). There really wasn't very much carbon. A thin film on portions of the IACV and a ring in the throttle body around the butterfly valve in the closed throttle position. I also pushed the little metal "swing-door" around in the IACV and it moved freely under pressure, but wanted to swing back in place to its original resting position when I let go of it. So, from what I can tell, it appears my IACV is functioni
  10. I will clean out the throttle body and IACV this weekend, but have a few questions. 1) Are tightening torques for the screws important? 2) Is it safe to spray carb cleaner inside the IACV? 3) Is it safe to push around the flap inside the IACV? I'm worried that the flap or whatever that the IACV contains is not meant to be pushed around. Also, is cleaning the IACV the only maintenance for it or should I lubricate it too? I just don't know what to expect with the IACV, thanks. James
  11. Reefish, I haven't replaced the spark plugs recently, so I hope it isn't that. Thanks for the suggestion. James
  12. Hi all, So, blackboxster and I appear to have different problems, so I decided to start a new thread concerning my car. My 98 2.5 non egas 5 speed under 10k miles Boxster seems to be having a idle problem on every warm start and frequently cold starts IF the outside temperature is below 60-65 F. What's weird (and good) I suppose, is that the engine kinda returns to normal after I've driven it for a few minutes. There also is no Check Engine Light. This isn't a chronic engine shuddering at idle problem, but pretty short term. And when the engine shudders, it is for like a second before t
  13. Loren, is this carbon build up/ idle control valve part common causes of problems on the Boxster? Also, how does one go about fixing these two potential problem causers? Should I just remove the throttle body and blow compressed air on it? How about the idle control valve? Where is it located? Can I clean it or replace it? Thank you for the tip Loren. James
  14. Hmmm blackboxster, I was thinking that our problem was the same, but if you only experience this at cold start up and I only get it after the car has already been driven for a while, we may not be searching for the same culprit. Sorry I wasn't of any help. James
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