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gandrade1

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Everything posted by gandrade1

  1. A bit out of topic... Just FYI, I live in NJ and was pulled over last Sunday by a State trooper and got a ticket for not having the front license plate...That was the only reason he pulled me over and my car is not even red :D !!! Nothing else wrong - was in the speed limit and the road was very busy. It makes you wonder where the priorities are for these guys. All the best, Gus
  2. Hi Westcoaster, I ran some numbers and it looks like the rear wheels will move slightly towards the suspension by 22 milimeters (2 centimeters), while the outside movement is almost negligible. Note that you could add some spacers to balance out the movement towards the inner side of the car. I don't think you would have a problem. That being said, I would call a store that is used to Pcars and ask them just to make sure. Or hopefully someone with a 987 has done the same thing and will give their advice. All the best, Gus
  3. Hi Westcoaster, As long as you go for 18's or 19's that meet the specs that are recommended for your car (look for a TSB on Summer Tires and Wheels) you should have no problems at all. I am not 100% sure, but I believe that even if the 18/19s don't meet the Porsche specs exactly you will not have any code errors, probably some minor discrepancies on your speed readings but no codes... Best, Gus
  4. Check this out... Center Console Removal, etc Best, Gus PS:Added the link, please let me know if it works...
  5. Based on what? wow, tough crowd here...... uh, based on the fact that ive read that the shifting mechanism has changed. Its not just a lever or geometry change but that part of the overall console design was changed. What EXACTLY that entails, well im not so sure. I said i assume, i was asking a question, hardly stating fact. I don't have both in hand to compare, but I am curious so i figured i would ask. Cheers Hi Ryan, I asked because it looks like you are on to something... I recently installed the B&M, and it does feel stiff despite the perfect throws. If what you are saying is correct then you might just have found the perfect solution! And I will be lining up for the 987 assembly too :cheers: Best, Gus
  6. sorry coupe thanks Lorren! Also interested - assuming I can use the same on my '01 Boxster.....
  7. This is a great question that got me wondering as well..... Is the 987 assembly much superior to the B&M? If so in what aspects? I installed a B&M two months ago and it does feel a bit stiff, but I love the short throws it gives. Had I known of the 987 assembly I would have sold my B&M online and bought the OEM piece - that would have allowed me to keep my original part (986) intact and simplified the installation since there is no need to brake the shifter from the base. What is the difference between the two and why is the OEM cheaper? All the best, Gus
  8. Did the same on my 986 (Boxster) and it helps a lot... I also added Kirkey seats, bolted to the floor. I would recommend a set of Recaros or Sparcos (brackets are easier to find and they look nicer than the Kirkeys). I personally found the GT3 style not very comfortable. I would also add sliders, which I didnt do in the driver's side because they increase the height by one inch and, since I need to clear the 'broomstick test', every inch counted.
  9. Man...These look amazing!!!!!!!!! Wish I didn't have to deal with the Jersey roads! Where did you get them? Looks pretty All the best, Gus
  10. Quick update: One of the local Indy Shops wants $270 just in labor!!!!! :cursing: What planet do these guys live in? :censored:
  11. Another question: Do I need to replace the nuts, bolts and clamps? If so, which ones? If so can I buy 'generic parts' or should I order them from a P dealer? Thanks, Gus
  12. Hi Guys, I will get a pair of Rhino Ramps and try to do the job... One question - if I decide to buy the plastic rivets for the spoiler in the event I need to replace them, does anyone know the part number? BTW, my car is a 2.7L (2001), is my muffler also attached to the transmission area? I check underneath the car but couldn't see anything - but I guess that is the point!!! All the best, Gus
  13. Thank you very much guys... I will give this thing a try on the weekend... My concern with removing the bumper is the part where I need to remove the rear spoiler... I will probably put the rear on stands to do the work - is that what you guys did? Thanks, Gus
  14. Hi guys, I bought a Stebro Racing Exhaust (only the muffler) and am planning on doing the install myself on my 01 2.7L Boxster... Has anyone here done such install? Do I really need to remove the rear bumper? How hard/time consuming should it be? Please, let me know if you come across instructions on how to do the job. Thanks, Gus
  15. Hi Walter, The distance between the tire and the top of the wheel well should not be a problem at all. You should be concerned with the distance between the outer edge of the tire and the fender. Take a look at this website...it might help you Wheel Offset Calculator
  16. If you are reducing the offset by 16 mm, that means that the new wheels will be moving outward by 16 mm, so the tires might rub your car. That will be amplified by the fact that the tires you are thinking of using are wider than the ones you currently have by 10 mm (305 - 295). So we are in theory talking about 16mm (from offset change) + 5mm (1/2 of the extra tire width) in extra space you need between the tires and the fenders in your current setup to be able to accomodate the new wheels and tires. Measure it, if you have much more than 21mm between the tires and the fenders currently the wheels will fit. If you are close to the 21mm mark it is too risky - after all this is not precise math! BTW, spacers will not solve your problem - assuming one exists - since all they do is to move the wheels out even further. Best of luck, Gus
  17. Sorry for taking this a little off the original topic, but you are the second guy I see running RE-01Rs in a Boxster - I am the other one :rolleyes: What pressure are you running on yours on track days? Thanks, Gus
  18. Congrats!!! The tire sizes you mentioned are exactly the ones recommended for the 986s For your car the recommended tire sizes (18''wheels) are: 235/40 ZR 18 (front) and 265/40 ZR 18 (rear). The recommended sizes would fill the wheel wells a little more and make the car a little higher. The ride will be less sporty. Good news is you might be able to sell the tires easily, since there are a lot of 986s owners out there (I am one of them - but just got new shoes!) All the best, Gus BTW - I got the recommended tire sizes from the TSB area here, which you have access after you become a contributor. My 2 cents, it is well worth it. :renntech:
  19. Hi Sputter, The suggest width of the front tires on 18's for the 986 are in fact 225! Chris is running all the 'approved' dimensions. All the best, Gus
  20. ToolPants, Is this available for sale? :rolleyes: I have been looking for a cheaper solution for my 01 Boxster...
  21. Got it at Amazon - great price!!! Great investment, despite the price Gus
  22. Hi guys, thanks to your help and encouragement I finished the install... One thing I can tell you - the older the car the hardest it is to take the electrical connectors apart. Especially hard for me was the center console alarm - the whole thing came out and the connector did not unplug - good news is I was able to put the sensor back together... Difficulties apart the install is done... I am not 100% sure about how I feel about it <_< - While I love the shorter travel, it is now much stiffer to engage the gears - is this normal? I used the 'Porsche Method' which means NO disconneting and re-aligning cables, just flipped the tower and disconnected the 'sockets' while keeping the cables engaged. How can I tell if the stiffeness is OK... Thanks all, All the best, Gus BTW :renntech: and all the friends I have make here...Thanks to you guys I have done so far: GT3 Console delete, HID retrofit, Horn replacement and radiator cleaning, throttle body cleaning, IPOD install, Radar Detector hard-wiring, Short Shift Install, speakers replacement, rear speaker kit fabrication and install, oil and filter change, brake bleeding, polen filter replacement...
  23. Hi gristy... The knob was tough indeed, but since I knew it was just a matter of forcing it - I pulled it off very hard by putting the car in neutral and bracing against the fotwell - just as you described. Came off in 10 minutes, but it was a workout! I am a little reticent on simply forcing the connectors because they seem rather delicate, but if you are saying that there is no trick I will just pry it out with a screwdriver and hope for the best! Thanks for all your help! All the best. Gus
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