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thormann

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About thormann

  • Birthday 08/05/1982

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    Austria
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  • Present cars
    Porsche Carrera 996 4S 2004

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  1. @Silver_TT Thanks you very much for your support Yes, Salzburg ist a very nice, tiny village, especially around the Christmas time (with no Corona). I live close to Vienna, but have been in Salzburg a couple of times. Her cousin has both a TT and GT3? Very nice...😀 I will try the fluid and the detent and hope very much this will the job. However, I currently have the first factory fill in the transmission (car has about 76.000km only), so this must be the Porsche stuff. I keep you informed. Have a good day
  2. Thanks for your replies. I will have a look on the ball connectors as well. @Silver_TT Currently I am in Austria, but still too far to go to GBox 😉 I hope that a fluid change or the detent will help...
  3. OK, Thanks! @CapeCoral944 Yes, the cables are O.K. and properly connected!What do you mean with „coming loose“?
  4. Thanks both for the replies. I had only read about the Redline NS in combination with my problem. That is why I asked for that. So it would be better to change to the factory fluid? Could that help? I understood, that the common 2nd gear pop out is a bit different from my problem (immediate pop out after releasing the clutch). Could the detent help in my case as well? Thanks again!!!
  5. Hi,

     

    I read that more than 10 years ago, you had the same problem with the 996 transmission, that I have now.

     

    Mostly if cold, sometimes my 2nd gear pops out immediately after releasing the clutch. Did you try changing the fluid (to Redline?) as suggested? Did that help? Or maybe you tried the GBox detent? If possible I would like to avoid the exchange of the synchro ring for a while.

     

    Thanks a lot you your help!!

     

    Thormann

  6. Hi, sometimes after shifting to the 2nd gear and releasing the clutch, the gear pops out after a grinding noise. This happens mostly once in cold condition, later there is no issue shifting to the 2nd gear. I have read about the 2nd gear pop out and the gbox solution. I understand, that here the 2nd gear pops out after a while. In my case, the problem occurs only when shifting to the 2nd gear. Once the gear is in (with clutch released), it never pops out. Most probably my synchro rings are getting worn? Now I have read about the Redline no slip oil, which could help at least for a while. Has anyone experience with this in a similar case? Is it worth a try? For the moment I would prefer to avoid the exchange the synchro rings, if possible. Thanks for any comment or help !!
  7. Thanks for the reply, Joe! As I understand the manual most of the oil remains in the system. Isn´t it too much, if I just fill up another 195g? What could happen, if I fill too much oil?
  8. Hi, both of my condensers were leaking, so I had replaced them. The system was already completely empty. A workshop refilled the system with 900g R-134a and only 5g oil. I doubt, that they have filled up enough oil. As per manual the total qty. is about 195g and about 20g remain in a single condenser. So for my understanding at least 2x20g of oil should be added for the replaced condensers and an amount for the oil that escaped together with the refrigerant. Am I wrong or what is the best procedure to determine the correct amount of oil. I think adding too much is also not a good idea? Thanks for any help!!!
  9. Hi, I have replaced the right radiator of my 996 4S due to an accident. After disconnecting the coolant hoses from the broken radiator, I collected about 1 gallon of coolant. Now I have installed the the new radiator, filled the coolant reservoir to max, opened the bleeding valve and started the engine. After a while the left radiator is getting warm, so the regulator valve seems to be open. However, the new (right) radiator remains cool. I can feel that the upper hose connected to the radiator is warm, but not the radiator itself and the lower hose. The coolant is still at max level... Any idea what I am doing wrong? Thanks a lot, Thormann
  10. O.K., but any concerns to close the system now and change the dryer later prior to putting the system under vacuum?
  11. Thanks for your reply, JFP! You are right, my question refers to the dryer. Prior to refilling the shop will vacuum and test the system on Monday. Is it advisable to change the filter and close the system right now or shall I better wait until Monday. Thanks again!
  12. Hi, Due to a leak I have to exchange the A/C condensers of my 996 4S (2004). However, my question is A/C and not car specific. After draining the system in the shop, I have removed the condensers some days ago and my new ones will arrive probably today. Sure, I will replace the filter as well. My concern is: Since the system was open for a while, ambient (humid) air came into the system. What is the preferred procedure for the filter then? Do I better exchange the filter immediately after I closed the A/C circuit (installed the new condensers) or better only short prior to refill the system (which could be after the weekend only). Or should I even only close the system short before refilling? Any experience or suggestion is appreciated. Thanks!!
  13. "Blind" was more a figure, of course, you need feeling for that. Coolant lines are much more to the middle of the car. Advantage of my described method is, that you can put both jack stands under the factory points at the same time with only one lift! The car stands stable like a rock. Doesn´t matter if use the yellow or red marked point, but the red would make it easier?
  14. Thanks again. The liftbars are interesting when lifting the entire vehicle. However, for a quick lift at the front not convenient. Actually the point marked with the yellow arrow ist strong enough and works very good. You only have to watch that the jack is not in the way to put the jack stand under the factory point. This can be done when you use the jack a bit "diagonal". If the red circled point would be usable, you could put the jack more or less "blind" and straight under the car.I am not sure, but as per manual this should be also a carrying part made of high strenght steel.
  15. Thanks for your reply! When lifting at the rear jacking point, the car (front and rear) comes up only on one side. With the jacking point in the pic both the left and right front side come up together, which is much more comfortable. However the point in question (red circle) would make it again easier, since you do not block the way for the jack stand. Therefore my question, if it is safe.
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