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Everything posted by thormann

  1. O.K., but any concerns to close the system now and change the dryer later prior to putting the system under vacuum?
  2. Thanks for your reply, JFP! You are right, my question refers to the dryer. Prior to refilling the shop will vacuum and test the system on Monday. Is it advisable to change the filter and close the system right now or shall I better wait until Monday. Thanks again!
  3. Hi, Due to a leak I have to exchange the A/C condensers of my 996 4S (2004). However, my question is A/C and not car specific. After draining the system in the shop, I have removed the condensers some days ago and my new ones will arrive probably today. Sure, I will replace the filter as well. My concern is: Since the system was open for a while, ambient (humid) air came into the system. What is the preferred procedure for the filter then? Do I better exchange the filter immediately after I closed the A/C circuit (installed the new condensers) or better only short prior to refill the system (which could be after the weekend only). Or should I even only close the system short before refilling? Any experience or suggestion is appreciated. Thanks!!
  4. "Blind" was more a figure, of course, you need feeling for that. Coolant lines are much more to the middle of the car. Advantage of my described method is, that you can put both jack stands under the factory points at the same time with only one lift! The car stands stable like a rock. Doesn´t matter if use the yellow or red marked point, but the red would make it easier😀
  5. Thanks again. The liftbars are interesting when lifting the entire vehicle. However, for a quick lift at the front not convenient. Actually the point marked with the yellow arrow ist strong enough and works very good. You only have to watch that the jack is not in the way to put the jack stand under the factory point. This can be done when you use the jack a bit "diagonal". If the red circled point would be usable, you could put the jack more or less "blind" and straight under the car.I am not sure, but as per manual this should be also a carrying part made of high strenght steel.
  6. Thanks for your reply! When lifting at the rear jacking point, the car (front and rear) comes up only on one side. With the jacking point in the pic both the left and right front side come up together, which is much more comfortable. However the point in question (red circle) would make it again easier, since you do not block the way for the jack stand. Therefore my question, if it is safe.
  7. Hi, I have placed the jack many times at the area marked with the yellow arrow as per Pelican parts proposal. My problem is, that it is alway tricky to put a jack stand under the factory lifting points (green arrow) at the same time, since the jack is still in the way! It would be much easier for me to lift more behind (e.g. red circle), but I am not sure, if this is strong enough (high strength steel?). Has somebody tried to lift there? I am a afraid to damage the under car. Thanks a lot!
  8. Thanks for your help! First I thought of the sport exhaust solenoid, but it keeps beeping no matter if on or off, so I think i can exclude this. Any idea, how to come closer to the sound? Is this definitely a solenoid? Thanks again.
  9. For some time now, I realize a beeping or whistling sound immediately after turning on the ignition (not engine). I am sure, that this was not the case earlier. The sound starts after a click (solenoid?) and lasts about 10s. I have attached a short clip ofd this sound. Maybe somebody knows, what it is and can help?! Thanks in advance!!! IMG_5610 (1).mp4
  10. Hi, today I reinstalled the front control arm. Unfortunately I could not find a way to apply a torque wrench to the M12 connection to the side member. Neither on the screw nor on the nut is sufficient space. Has anyone a solution for that? Do I need a special torque wrench? Thanks for help!
  11. Thanks, JFP! This is exactly what I was looking for! I will go with the genuine clamp then!
  12. Can you link me to such a crimping tool. I have searched for it, but only find the pliers required for the universal clamps, such as I used now! I have attached a photo of the genuine clamp! I guess tapping on the crimp will loosen it slightly and the clamp is not tight anymore. Do I really need more clearance or are my concerns not necessary?
  13. Hi, I have replaced the boots of the front drive shafts of my 996 4S. I have not used the Porsche clamps but standard boot clamps. The crimped part is very high and close to the boot of the inner joint. I am concerned that under certain conditions the boot will be damaged (this joint has also axial play). Has anybody used such kind of clamps before with no issues and my worries are not necessary? Does anybody know how to fix/crimp the original Porsche clamps? They are much more flat... Thanks for help!!!
  14. Unfortunately not as per Porsches definition. Here is the M12 nut of the connection control arm / cross member! Porsche calls this nut 99908444501 a safety nut in the part list.
  15. Thanks for your reply O.K., but how would you understand the manual? For me it reads like Porsche would not use any glue on the standard nuts! How do you recognize which nuts are safety nuts? Description in the parts list?
  16. Hi, To replace drive shaft boots and strut mount, I have disassembled the wheel bearing carrier. The porsche manual says to replace all safety nuts for the control arm, track rod, drive shaft! This is O.K. so far, but I read nothing about using Loctite or similar glues on the threads. What is the advice here, if I replace the nuts anyway? Do I need additional glue? Thanks for any hint!! Gert
  17. Hello, I am a little confused and could not find an answer yet! I need to remove the front struts to replace the strut mounts. Therefore I need to crack the ball joints of the track rod and the control arm. In the manual is referred to a special Porsche tool 9560 (C) for the control arm and a commercially available tool (B) for the track rod. Since I want to buy the correct tools, I have some questions: -The tools look very similar, except that the one for the track rod has a flat outside and the one for the control arm a flat inside. Is that correct? -Except the size the 2 ball joints look very similar to me. For my understanding the tool with the flat inside would also be the besser option for the track rod (foto). How can the proposed tool (B) work here? -What are the required sizes (jaw opening) for the joints? Thank you for any help!
  18. I am not sure, if I understand you right: At the front the engine is still being held by the engine mounting bracket! To support the transmission side of the engine, I will use the same point, the Porsche bar does! You are right, that adjusting under weight (even under only estimated 100kgs) doesn‘t work! So I need to slightly support with a jack somewhere
  19. Good to hear from someone with experience. I will give this a try then. This is a 12t stand from Bahco, a European company. I like the way to adjust the height and very solid. Gives me a good feeling under the car...
  20. I was thinking of using such kind of jack stand, which is adjustable as well. So, from your experience: Will this be wobbly! Unfortunately I can not weld this bar by myself and these stands I have at home
  21. Thanks for the answer! Since I do not have a lift, I want to put the car on 4 jack stands and I do not move the car with the transmission removed! So these advantages of the engine support bar are not required for me. Is it then safe to take the engine weight with a jack stand at the same point? Or do horizontal forces occur, that the stand can not take and wobbles or something?
  22. Hi, I know this is an old thread, but I found it when I was looking for a way to support my engine! What I do not understand, is the advantage of the special Porsche tool or a similar design. Why can‘t I simply take the weight of the engine with a normal jack at the same point, the special tool does! Or would this be wobbly? I have never removed the transmission so far, so I am thinking only theoretically! Maybe someone can make me sleep again😚
  23. Hello, I am planning to replace the clutch of my 996 4s and therefore need to remove the transmission. I will put the car on these 20" (max) Bahco jack stands. Would a 5th of this jack stand also be able to support the engine? In my opinion the effect is similar to the original Porsche tool (except that it stands on the bottom and is not connected to the car). The stand could be screwed exactly to a height "touching" the crankcase. Or am I wrong and need more of these or something different? Further I need a transmission jack! Can someone recommend one? What is the maximum lowest height of this jack to remove the transmission from under the car. Thanks for hints! Gert
  24. Thanks again for the replies!! It makes me crazy, too! The windows goes only down a bit, when I open the door! But the sound is already there when unlocking the car Very good idea, that was the solution for me, I thought! I tried immediately with the fuel lid open, but the sound is not coming from there. The pin of the lid and the rest of the power lock seem to move almost to the same time. And immediately afterwards, I hear this stupid jarring sound! By the way, it only happens, when unlocking the complete car with the remote! It does not happen, when unlocking the hood with the remote (although the doors will be opened as well)! Meanwhile I assume, this is something of the seat memory! However, I have deleted it for this key! Very annoying...
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