996C4SC

I have two Audi and they both have procedures similar to what I found listed above for programming new remote so I was really hoping that this procedures can be done also for Porsche. But with that said it is almost universally knowledge that when your remote failed(and looks like it fails pretty regularly) that you just bring it to the dealer and they charge you the price of buying a smart phone for a simple remote. :censored: Anyway I think I have to order the remote anyway and from searching the forum look like Sunset Porsche has the best price. I will give a go since I do have some time to waste; if it doesn't work I will bring to the dealer to get it program. If anyone have try this please chime in working or not since this is the purpose of this forums.

Does anyone try the following two procedures to reprogram their keyless remote for 1999 996? I found this via google search and wonder anyone here have tried it. Both of my remotes are dead and looking for options to reprogram a new remote purchase from on-line dealers. My local dealer gave me a quote about $300 for key and reprogramming for one remote. I like to get two remote so I have a backup and that would to $600! 1. Close the vehicle . 2. Turn OFF the ignition. 3. Remove the key from the ignition. 4. Press and hold the driver side door lock switch in the UNLOCK position. 5. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.) 6. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and remove the key. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.) 7. Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder. (Do not turn the ignition key in the lock cylinder.) Leave the ignition key in the ignition lock cylinder. 8. Release the door lock switch. The vehicle will sound three beeps in order to verify the Program Mode has been activated. 9. Press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons together on the keyless entry transmitter and hold until the vehicle beeps twice to verify that the transmitter has been successfully programmed (this take approximately 15 seconds). 10. Perform the previous step to program up to four transmitters (including your old ones). 11. Remove the ignition key in order to exit the Program Mode Here's another one: 1) Turn ignition to OFF. 2) Locate the Link Connector, its a black 16 pin connecter that is under the driver's side dash, right where your right knee would be. You have to look up into the dash from below to see it. 3) Ground pin 1 of the Data Link Connector by taking a wire or paper clip and running it from pin 1 to pin 4. Pin 4 is ground so you can just short pin 1 to 4 and it will be grounded. Grounding pin 1 tells the system you are ready to reprogram it. 4) Close all of your doors. 5) Turn the key to ACC then back off. The power door will lock/unlock. This is the signal that the system is ready for reprogramming. 6) Push a button on your key fob, doesn't matter which button. 7) If you have 2 key fobs, then press a button on the 2nd fob within 1 minute of pressing a button on the 1st fob. Both must be programmed at the same time. If you only have 1 fob then press a button 2 more times to signal that you only have one. 8) The doors will lock/unlock to signal the codes were received. 9) Remove the jumper wire from the data connector. 10) your done

I replaced my top about 8 or more years ago. it's came out pretty good the only problem is that I replaced with an aftermarket top and some of the fastener and attachment is getting loose or starting to rip now so I probably need to adjust or replace it again. From what I remembered the hardest part is stretching the end parts near the windshield and side windows to make a tight fit like the factory. You will need a lot of big clamps so you can hold the top in place while doing the installation. I brought a set of clamps from Home Depot. They look like large paper clips with springs so it will hold the top in place. The whole kit came with different sizes so it came in handy for tight spots. They come with green rubber ends so it will not scratch your top. You will also need some fabric glues since the some of the end fabric need to be glued. It took me about two weekends to install it. If you are handy and take your time, it actually a fun project. I am thinking replace mine again with the new glass back window upgrade also.

That's exactly whats happening to my car. I updated to ROW M030 package 2.5 years ago and I was debating to change the mounts out but decided not to do it. Now it's failing and I have spray some silicon grease to calm the clacking and it kinda of work at this time but I really have to change it out. BTW when you turn the 21 mm bolt nut on top of the shock strut (#1 in the strut diagram) does it suppose to move or turn in free spin with the washer? I think the torque spec is 43 ft-lb. I used an 3/8 allen wrench socket and 21 mm wrench to tighten it. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for you input.

Hi All, Looks like I need to replace my strut mounts. What is the Porsche part number for the front strut mount for a 1999 Porsche C4 Cab? What is the different between C2 and C4 strut mount because I see the price are two times for the C4s. I saw several after market parts but not sure would be going that route. I have gone to couple auto cross events but not sure I can live with an after market one for daily driving. Current my suspension is ROW M030. Any suggestion would be appreciate!

Where did you get the shock mounts? I think I need to change them too on my C4. I should of change them out when I upgrade to M30...

I have a 1999 C4 Cab with litronic headlights. The intergrated driving lights use to work when I turn and pull the switch all the way to the left but now it's not working. I checked the bulbs are OK so I think it's the relay. I looking into the fuse panel and there are bunch of them. Does anyont know which one is for the driving lights relay? Or this is some other problems. Thanks in advance.

I followed this website which has some actual picture of the procedure: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_the_CVJ_Boots_%26_Half_Axles.html

The only time you know a business vendor is good or bad is when you encounter a problem and they treat you fairly and honestly. My experience with Vertex Auto is not a good one. I ordered a rebuilt front axle from Vertexauto.com early this year(2011) since my CV boot was leaking and bearing is pretty bad. I received the rebuilt axle pretty quickly within a week in CA. The axle has new boots on both ends and looks OK so I installed it in my 996 and check on the play on the bearingsby just wiggling it on the frame. I found that the rebuild axle bearing was as bad as my old one with same kind of play on the bearing so it did not work for me. That was understanding since Vertex stated that the rebuilt axle they sell only have the new CV boot and Joint NOT bearing so I called them up and told them about my situation. First I heard from the salesman on the phone was "No way" and then the he transferred me to the tech. I explained the situation to the tech and he said they do check the bearing but he did understand it may be overlooked. I told him I just want to fix my car so I will exchange for the new ones that they sell with new bearing. The tech agree and he said that I will get a full refund on the rebuilt axle by shipping it back to them but I need to pay for the new on first so they can shipped it be me. I agreed so I did get the new axle within a week again and I installed it and every as good as new. I sent the rebuilt axle back to them as soon as I received the new one and UPS confirmed that they received it. I checked my credit card a week or so later but no refund was made on the rebuilt axle I sent back. I emailed the sale department to remind them and again they assured me it will be refund within 2 to 3 days. I waited another week went by and I checked my credit online again and still no refund. So now I emailed the salesman again telling him still no refund made. And again the salesman emailed me back telling me to be patient and assure me again refund within 2 to 3 days if not call them to let them know. Another 7 days again went by and still no refund. It's been a month now since I returned the part and I just have enough of this since a customer should not have to chase down the seller for something they promise to do. So now I decided to file a claim on my credit card and I am out of $490.22 (Part+core charge) I hated to talk trash about a business since I am a business owner myself but I would never treat my customer this way. So BUYERS BEWARE!

Thanks Lorence, I was worry you would say that....I guess it's time to invest in a diagnotic tool...any recommendations? I will read up on it....

Hi all, I just installed a new steering wheel on my 99 996C4 Cab. I was going back and forth adjusting the steering alignment and at one point I forgot to disconnect the battery and disconnected the airbag which it trips the airbag alarm on the dash :censored: . Now I can not clear the alarm by disconnect the battery or reconnect the airbag. Do I need diagnotic tool to clear it or there is a simple way of doing that? I try to read it with my OBDII reader but it did not register and fault code....:help: Thanks in advance.

Anyone?....I guess I am on my own.... :(

Does anyone know a good write up on changing out CV boot for the 996? Thanks in advance.

I also have a 99 Porsche 996 but C4 and I was changing my front brake pads today and found some gease on the brake line. So looked into it further found my front passenger side outer CV boot is crack wide open and there were barely any gease in joint at all. I look into the company you mentioned but did not see any part for that was for the porsche. Did you order part that was for other cars? I think I did feel my car shakes a little a month or two ago but I check the wheel and no gease was found so I just thought I was being too sensitive but now I think the shake was indeed from the crack CV boot. Any pointer would help on finding new replacment boot or even changing out the whole axle. Thanks in advance.

That's funny. I got my rebuilt alternator at Autozone too after getting a quote from the dealer for a new one at $1200. It was also around $100 and it comes with lifetime warrantry. You just can not beat that. That was about 20K miles ago and it's still running strong. :)