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xxaarraa

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xxaarraa last won the day on July 23

xxaarraa had the most liked content!

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About xxaarraa

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Boston
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    996 C4S, 4Runner
  • Former cars
    E46 M3, W210 E55, W203 C55, RSX-S

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  1. Hey guys, I wanted to post this for the benefit of anyone else looking for this information in the future. There is a lot of discussion on rennlist and here about how best to take off the front struts from inside the wheel well so that we can take them apart and replace the strut bearings. My research revealed two common DIY approaches. They both agreed up to a certain point - remove calipers and rotors, disconnect sway bar end links from the upright, unplug all the speed sensors and wires, remove the three bolts at the top of the struts in the frunk. Both said you need to modify a ball joint separator tool to get underneath the LCA ball joint.Then they diverged: One said to take off the half shafts from the transmission side. The other said there was no need to take off the half shafts I took on this project this past weekend armed with all the DIY threads from here, 6speedonline (special thanks to Chris Hamilton at 6SPO, he spent a lot of time with me giving me tips) and Rennlist. I had a very skillful friend to help me and we found an easier way. We never separated the lower ball joint. Instead, we disconnected the diagonal thrust arm from the wheel carrier. This gave us more than enough room to snake the strut out of the wheel well. HOWEVER, I am running PSS10s that are set to be at least an inch lower than stock (previous owner got PSS10 to lower the car), so that may be the difference. I am unable to say if stock struts will have enough room to come off this way, but wanted to share this in case anyone did a google search in the future. Now the bad news is that even after new strut bearings, my car makes the same exact noise as shown in the videos above. So back to square one. Oh, I also want to say that I found these aluminum jack stands that are AWESOME. Super light, they stack up and store easily and hold up to 6000 lbs each. Worked perfectly for the C4S and a good addition to my tool box. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000760FWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here are some pics.
  2. OK guys, here's an update. Replaced both strut bearings - time consuming, but pretty straightforward job. Noise is still there. I supposed I am back to square one.
  3. Hey guys, I am getting the creaking/binding noise from front suspension when stationary and turning the steering. No noise over bumps etc. and I have decided to replace the front strut bearings to eliminate one possible cause. Question - I am reading conflicting information on the process on the C4S. One thread says you need to remove the front half shafts to make room for the struts to come out of the wheel well. HEre: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/648609-strut-removal-replacement-procedure-question.html Another says that is not necessary. HEre: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/259126-front-strut-bearing-2.html Can someone tell me which one might be more accurate? Also, does anyone have the accurate part numbers for a 2003 C4S? I have PSS10s on there now, so not sure if that makes a difference or if I just need the OEM strut bearing still. Please advice! Thanks.
  4. Alright guys here's an update. All joints have been greased in the front suspension (with a grease needle), mechanic who inspected everything says everything in front end is solid. Car is still making the noise when warm. a) I can now replicate the noise even when it's cold by holding the brake down while turning the wheel. It sounds like a binding noise, as though the brakes are trying to keep the wheel from turning. b) Funny, this past winter, I started to get some pulsing under braking and figured it was time for a brake job. But in a few weeks, the pulsing just went away and it hasn't returned. Putting a) and b) together, I am wondering now if my steering noise is due to a front caliper sticking? Maybe one of the pistons isn't retracting properly when it's hot causing it to stick every so slightly when the car is parked and wheels are turning? My brakes feel fine now though, so would rather not do a full brake-job just yet. Is there merit in taking it apart and making sure my caliper slider pins are not rotted? Should I throw new brake pads on there while I am at it? I'm at 46k miles,
  5. Sorry, I don't follow. Maybe you are typing from a phone and/or autocorrect is getting in the way?
  6. Thanks for your thoughts - can you clarify? "bearing plate" - are you referring to the strut bearings? you also suggesting I replace the entire front springs?
  7. Hey guys, Still having this issue, hoping for some ideas. Symptoms: after driving for a while on a hot day (45 minutes + on highway) and coming to a stop, even moving the steering left and right causes a 'clicking' or binding type of noise. No suspension travel necessary, just moving the steering wheel seems to cause it. Here are things I have tried, but to no avail: 1. lubed the tie rods - stuck a grease needle through the boot and pumped with synthetic grease 3. Replace a torn boot in right side sway bar drop link. 2. Sprayed teflon lubricant at top of front struts 3. Had my shop inspect everything in front end. He even had the car for a week and drove it home. Couldn't replicate the problem and said everything in the front end checked out. Noise is still there. Mysteriously, only happens in afternoon. I drive it to work 70 minutes in the morning and it doesn't do it, even if temperature is in the mid-60s. Only does it on the way back home after the same exact drive. Here are two videos I shot from this weekend. I was in the middle of a road trip and the car was nice and warm when I shot this. Standing in neutral and just turning the wheel left and right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H98n2v0Qw0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdmlQE5idE0
  8. Thank you for the thoughts. I thought the strut bearing was sealed and could not be inspected with the naked eye? Is there a way to visually inspect it? Also, I ordered a teflon lubricant spray (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UTX0R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and plan to clean and lube the bushings and joints. I saw that the 986 guys inject some grease into the control arm bushing with a grease needle, I might do that also. There are no zerks anywhere in the front-end correct? I would need to improvise with the lubing? Anyone got any other ideas as to what this could be?
  9. Hi Loren, so sorry, didn't occur to me to check youtube privacy settings. I fixed it now, please let me know if you can take a look. Only 14 seconds long.
  10. The car has been doing this recently. Only when hot after being driven for a while. Doesn't do it as soon as I start it up in the morning. My guess is wheel bearings, tie-rods or steering column itself. But curious to see what you guys think. Car has 45k, lowered on PSS10s, new front strut bearings at 30k.
  11. Got mine and paged through it. The photos are great and very well produced. That alone is worth the money, to have photo references while working on a project.
  12. Where do you see 14 replies to this topic? My computer or my eyes are playing tricks on me. I swear, I saw 14 replies to this topic when it first came up!
  13. Am I being dense or have the "14 replies to this topic" been erased? I am looking into this, found this thread, but don't see any replies??
  14. You can view the Table of Contents and index on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Projects-Porsche-1998-2008-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760344035/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top DOH! Got it, sounds useful. I already have the Bentley manual, might get this one also to add to the reference library.
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