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C2951

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

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About C2951

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 C2, 1988 944 Turbo, 1999 BMW 328i, 2000 F-250 Powerstroke
  1. Correct. The problem was ultimately fixed by removing the exterior door handle and assaulting the latch with a large screwdriver until the latch released and allowed the door to be opened. And then a new latch was installed.
  2. Well yes - he's Done that but the linkage between the handle and the latch is intact, it just doesn't release the latch. It's like the lock Inside the latch won't disengage.
  3. A friend with a '99 C2 cannot get his driver's side door to unlatch using either the external or internal release handles. This isn't a question of a battery discharge. He gets no resistance from the exterior release, some resistance from the interior release but neither of those result in the door unlatching. My thinking is that the lock motor has jammed in the locked position and isn't releasing the cam that holds the latch in the locked position. He has the interior door panel most of the way off - is there something he can trip on the latch mechanism to release the latch so that
  4. Thanks Matt, I tried that but when I didn't get movement, I wondered if I was missing something. I'll go back in and use a little more force. Appreciate the reply and the pics!
  5. What is the secret to disengaging the exterior door handle from the lock mechanism? I can see a white plastic piece that looks like it snaps onto a threaded rod coming from the door handle, but no idea how to free it to the point that I can snap the plastic off the rod. This is the piece just below the partially threaded nut in the picture. TIA for any help.
  6. Exactly right - that came on my 2000 F-250 and was mounted under the hood on the upper radiator support with the jack crank that mates with the female end and is used with the keyed extension to lower the spare. Used it a few time in the 12+ years I've owned it.
  7. Looks identical to the 3.4 that came in my '99. Except all Torx fasteners and the oil pan has shrouds around the bolt heads while the original engine had all hex heads and the pan bolt heads were proud.
  8. No problem dude! You help me, I help you. Beautiful, right?
  9. I have three of these in the garage: Measured 13.7, 13.6, and 13.9 ohms on my Fluke Model 77.
  10. So no way this could be a 3.4? It doesn't have any valve lift control connections...
  11. It was like 22mm vs the 13mm (?) on the original engine.
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