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Hi there, my Cayenne is telling me my driver's side door is open when it is not. This is causing the dome light to stay on. Not sure what the issue is and if can be fixed easily. Any info given is greatly appreciated, thanks!

Hi Porsche Gurus I’m trying to troubleshoot a little issue I have that just my drivers door courtesy lights (and drivers sunvisor light but not sure if that’s different issue) don’t work, both the red and white ones and only the one door(rhd car) now ive checked the common things like all the fuses and the wiring to see if they were damaged or corroded but they seem fine, The one thing I would like to check but can not find any info on is where or what is the switch or sensor that tells the lights that the door is open to turn the lights on? If I can find that then that will at least eliminate all manual fixes that I can think of unless any of you have come across this before, if it’s something simple and I look like a fool for not thinking of it then I’m happy to be a fool as long as the lights work:) any help would be much appreciated thanks Stevie G

Hi Guys. I am new to the forum and proud new owner of a beautiful 06 Cayenne S. I love my new Porsche, but am slowly working on fixing a few minor issues... First of all, my driver door latch is defective or at least the switch in there is. The vehicle never knows when the driver door is open, no dome lights or door ajar switch or chime. I have already purchased a brand new replacement latch assembly. Any instructions or tutorials on the fastest and easiest way to replace this? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

I replaced the passenger door regulator and all works in the proper direction. The window is too high and the dip distance(80 MM) too great. I've got some photos to show the distances the window moves. But it the adjustment process I can't fool the door into thinking it is closed so the window goes all the way up and stays. I can get the latch to click but the window doesn't move. It will move when actually closed. I can't get to the torx screws on the bottom of the door since the window is not in the full up position. What else needs to be done to fool the door and get the window up? Thanks for any info.

Troubleshooting a no crank issue; this code came up on the durametric alarm module section. My alldata documentation goes on to state; What does this even mean ? An entirely defective door lock module ? Did a previous owner install one from another car ? I don't really understand because the troubleshooting step is just one possible simple solution. I will carefully test all operation of the door lock and update with another post.

Hello, I just received a driver's side (L) door lock mechanism replacement for my 1997 Porsche Boxster. However, the wiring harnesses/connectors are different. Everything else is exactly the same. Please see attached photos. Any recommendations? Maybe an adapter? The part number is worn off of the old one but the numbers I do see are different, PA 66 30% GF (new), PA 66 30 FG< (old) Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Hello everyone this is my first post, please be gentle:) And here I am desperate after about a days worth of trying to figure out the problem Cayman 2007. Basically the story is: The car battery was empty, to the point it did not start. I called the dealer, they picked up the car and they changed the battery. When i got the car back, when the passenger door opens the door goes down 10cm but when the door is closed it doesnt go up again. I called the dealer they put the car on the diagnostic and they told me that the problem is probably a vary small part on the locking mechanism of the door but they can only change the whole mechanism, quote $600. I said thank you and left. I assumed its the door latch microswith. So i took the door appart, check the microswitch on the door latch, it was working, I gave it a good clean anyway and i put it back, problem pressist. I though maybe its a problem with the connection inside the latch? Anyone knows the pinout of the latch so I can check without dissasembling it? Maybe its the main door connector? Anyone knows the pinout there? Anyone has any other ideas in general? Thank you from the lovely island of Cyprus, Yiangos

A friend with a '99 C2 cannot get his driver's side door to unlatch using either the external or internal release handles. This isn't a question of a battery discharge. He gets no resistance from the exterior release, some resistance from the interior release but neither of those result in the door unlatching. My thinking is that the lock motor has jammed in the locked position and isn't releasing the cam that holds the latch in the locked position. He has the interior door panel most of the way off - is there something he can trip on the latch mechanism to release the latch so that he can remove the thing???

Picked up a 2004 CTT last week. Of course it has a slew of problems, some can wait, but this problem is high priority. I have spent about 8 hours (of company time) reading through similar problem posts, but havent found a post with the same symptoms and a confirmed solution at the end. Im not sure if this problem just started, or if I didnt notice it over the first week of ownership. The driver door will not lock. Symptoms: Key FOB button, two horn pumps, two light flashes, alarm is armed, all doors lock but drivers door, I can hear the actuator on that door. Central locking on armrest, hear all actuators, including driver door, all doors lock but drivers door Key in door, two horn pumps, two light flashes, alarm is armed, all doors lock but drivers door After playing with the key in the door, my key fob then stopped working all together, until I used the central locking (VERY weird), now it works as fine as it did this morning. I have tried all of the COMFORT setting (all, single door, etc.) same results I removed the grommet on the door and moved the red plastic doohickey to the left, no actuator noise or anything, moved it to the right, still nothing. I did notice that there was no spring action, I read in another post that there was an issue with a broken spring, is the doohickey supposed to spring back to the central location? Can anyone confirm this? I also have an air suspension faulty, and then a low beam actuator?? error come up recently. Ive read that a low battery can cause all sorts of randomly odd havoc. So I checked the battery voltage with a multimeter under the hood and it read 12.4v, Im assuming this is normal for a non running car with the door open. I appreciate any help you guys can offer!!! Im sure I will have lots of posts over the first few months.

Hello Forums, I have 2 issues. 1. One of my doors stopped locking. You can open the door from the outside anytime, but you can't open it from the inside. Does anyone know what I might need to fix here without having to take it into a dealer? Before it completely died, locking causes the door lock to 'Whir". 2. My "beep on lock" stopped working. When I lock the car, the horns don't beep any more. The settings are set to on. Blown fuse? Dead horns? Regular horns work fine when pushed on the wheel. Thanks for your help! .C

When I turn the key, you can hear the doors lock and then about 1 second later you hear them unlock. However, the arlarm is indeed engaged and any attempt to open the door will set it off. How do you fix it? [TIP] If anyone else has this problem, I discovered a temporary "hack" to lock the doors, though it does requires 2 people: Have someone on the passenger side ready with their hand on the handle. Turn the key and when it clicks, you both immediately press and hold down the handles. For whatever reason, this stops it from unlocking itself.

So, my interior d/s door handle went pop the other day and was hanging loose away from the door. I found the info on fixing it, got the upgrade parts from the dealer, and set out to fix it. Everything went well so far...I got the ugraded latch assembly installed ok. Now I need to install the replacement bowden cable. I can attach it to the handle side OK, but I'm not sure how to attach it to the door lock mechanism. One problem is I can't get the inner panel completely clear with the power window motor and linkage attached. I really don't want to mess with that... I have got all the inner panel screws removed and I think I can get my hand in there between the door and the panel, BUT I don't see where the bowden cable attaches to the lock. Do I remove the Torx screws in the door edge face to loosen the lock mechanism? If I do that will (1) I have access to where the bowden cable attaches? And, (2) will I be able to remount the lock mechanism OK? I've searched the Inet for info/pictures regarding the lock without success...

My door locks only work part of the time. At other times, they will click on and off randomly, like when I'm driving, going over bumpy sections of road, or sitting at a red light. I bought the car about a month ago and the guy said the passenger door lock mechanism was faulty, but they both have the same problem. I had to disconnect my alarm horn because it would go off at the same random times the locks acted up. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and/or repair this?

The drivers door on my 1999 seems like it's getting harder to shut properly. You have to almost "slam" the door for it to properly close. Everything lines up fine when it is shut, but I did notice that the door has alot of play in it when you lift up on the door when it is open. It looks like the play is in the hinge pins. After looking in the service manual it doesnt show any bushings that can be replaced. Is there actually bushings, or can the hinge pins be replaced? I have tried to do some searching but cant find any pins or hinge parts whatsoever. The passanger door has no play in it at all, while the drivers side moves at least 1/2".

I have recently had a relatively major track "off" - so looking for many replacement body parts. - no insurance cover for the damage of course :( Bumper covers, doors, fenders,bonnet, engine lid, wing etc Am interested in lightweight fibreglass (FRP) or carbon panels as substitutes for OEM parts - my car is used on the race-track a lot. Understand Carbon is more expensive - but lighter. But FRP easier to do minor repair work on from a small bump? 1 - Thoughts on OEM vs FRP vs Carbon? OEM parts fit well, are good for re-sale etc - but ARE also expensive! 2 - Recommended non-OEM body parts suppliers? - MA Shaw in USA - xtrememotorcars in USA - Revosport in HK - others? 3 - Fitting "Cup Car" style carbon doors to a car that is still used on the road - seems hard work. - Issues with locking/security, handles, mirrors, inner parts - is it just too hard/expensive &/or not practical? many thanks JB