subwiz

Nope, not in recirc mode either ... David.

Hi Fasterjames, I don't have the up arrow displayed, just the word 'Auto' ... could you run your car with just the 'Auto' word displayed and see if you have roughly a 50/50 split on air flow to the window and dash vents? Thanks, David.

I started to notice a slight misting mainly on the drivers side on the window if the air is running in auto mode at 72 degrees or lower. It seems to be blowing about 50% of the air via the window vent and 50% via the face level dash vents. Then again it might just be the current weather conditions in Central Florida? Does anyone else notice this same issue? Thanks, David.

I finally got free time to report my updates, ok here goes… I now understand that the Clarion DRZ9255 is more complicated to install/use then I first anticipated (being a novice). The H/U has no less than eight RCA outputs for highs, mids, rear and sub. Therefore when we connected the amp via the two channel RCA’s only and bridged the amp, we had to use what is called a 'direct' connection which in my opinion was not the best option as this block the use of many of the H/U's features including the filters and the time alignment. I then grabbed a freebie monster cable off my neighbor and ran an extra 2 channel RCA cable myself over the weekend (could not wait to drive car to install shop) and connected what Clarion refers too as a ‘standard’ connection. This uses the high and mid RCA outputs. Since the Alpine amp was originally installed to run bridged in two channel mode I still could not take advantage of all the H/U’s features. So, I drove the car back to the installer and he is going to run extra speaker wires so we can use the amp as a four channel system. The dash speakers will each get 70w and the doors will get 70w, plus I get to use the H/U’s full range of features. The car was dropped off today at the installer, but I ran out of time to drive over and collect it today. So should have an update by tomorrow… Thanks, David. P.S. Message to Shash, I did not get a photo of the back of the factory H/U as your reply post was made after I had the Clarion installed, sorry. :(

I just bid and won a used Clarion DRZ9255, should have it installed within a week or so.

Hi Boxs2000, Thanks for the comments, you are correct the Dyn's are 4 Ohms. I'll check the x over and see what the installer did when I get them to install a new head unit. Still looking around for this, but I do like the Nackamichi mentioned in this post by Chris_in_NH. David.

Hi Shash, Really appreciate you taking the time to write such a detailed reply! :renntech: As for the cable I guess it was more an impulse buy, I freaked out a little with the current set-up and opt'ed to get what I presumed was one of the best cables in my budget. I can confirm that the installed has turned down the gain on the Alpine amp and my guess was spot on with the 500Hz guess, it really does sound like a AM radio at the moment. After reading your comments about the back of the CDR-23 and the 6 pins, etc I feel that a new head unit would be the best option, I get the feeling that the installer is not a circuit board level guy and I'd prefer avoiding the potential of the factory amp getting fried. If you are still interested I will take some photos of the head unit when it is pulled out and replaced, but I am not sure if that is a mute point since I plan on changing the head unit out? Please let me know. Thanks for making things a much clearer with your comments on the bridging, I believe that he is using the low-Z output and the Alpine amp kicked into protection mode. I plan to bridge the amp again when the new head unit is installed. Thanks again, David. P.S. Off topic, but just out of interest my best bud's nick name from back in the day as a teenager in the UK was also called Shash, does that class as some form of irony?

Hi Chris, We looked at installing the Dyn's under the grills but we did not think it would fit and I did not want to hack up the factory parts. I really like the look of the speakers, but again everyone has their own taste ;) I got a deal on the speakers, but I think they average around $1,000 - $1,2000 on the web. I think an authorized dealer is a little more ... I have looked at the Nakamichi but I was not sure if it had just a line out, or RCA's? Also, I agree that it does look almost factory and that is a big draw for me too. Thanks, David. David K.

Yep :)

Finally, I decided to purchase Dynaudio’s 342 three way speaker system and just got it back from the installer. It seems the factory head unit is somewhat lacking with compatibility with the Alpine amp, even though I convienced myself the line level input would of worked to keep my costs down after purchasing the Dyn’s. After chatting with the installer, this is where it gets a little hazy for my level of knowledge, it seems the only why he could connect the head unit to the Alpine amp was taking a feed from the factory amp as the fiber optic connection would not directly connect to the Alpine amp. So for right now it seems I am not hearing much from the doors and the dash speakers are a little harsh! Laymans guess, but it sounds to me like nothing below 500hz is being heard. The installer did explain that I really need to replace the head unit, I don’t have any complaints with his work I would gladly recommend his shop to anyone. I was planning to add a new head unit down the road, but the poor sound quality is forcing me to look for a replacement now! I have already purchased a new Monster XLN 400 series cable to replace the current RCA in the photo, just researching 'reasonable' priced head units. Also … Currently I have the alpine amp power set to 75w per channel @ 4 Ohms, however I have two channels spare and was thinking about bridging to 145w per channel @ 4 Ohms. The Dynaudio’s claim to handle a constant 200w per channel… I did ask the audio installer about bridging the amp, which he tried and the tweeters went into protection mode then shut down, I am presuming this is something to do with not having the head unit connected direct to the Alpine amp. Does all that make any sense? Any comments would be appricated. Thanks, David.

I found a NEW rear Bose speaker on a popular auction site that I decided to buy. Now going on a hunt for more details on how to match up to the M490 system... David K.

Hi Tony, Thanks for the comments. I have tried the use of 6 x 9 in my other car (MINI Cooper S) in the rear door panels, I did have to foam in the cavity being the speakers to get the bass I was looking for from them. I also used an aftermarket amp, the factory one was not up to par. The 6 x 9's that I used were made by Genesis Genesis Link Not quite the same as adding a 10" or 12" Sub, but the bass increase was significant over the factory system. At the moment I seem to be leaning toward adding the Dynaudio 162GT 6.5" in the doors with their 3" mid and 1" tweeter. But with their 162GT having a 3" voice coil I doubt the factory amp will do this speaker justice. So going this route will most likely include a new amp. Good news is I am in no rush to get this done, so will keep reading and learning until I have the best solution that suits me. David K.

Here is a shot of a factory aero kit on my 04 S

I had a 02 Boxster which dropped just a couple of spots of oil on the floor, which ended up with a new motor due to the cast warping and the dealer was not able to replace just the gasket. Good news for me it was under factory warranty at the time. I would certainly get the car checked before taking delivery.

Hi Rodger, Thanks for the reply. Looking at the photos it reminds me why I moved to Florida from the UK ;) David.