laalves

FYI, it is confirmed, 99970346240 is the correct P/N, I've plugged all empty holes now, a total of 8 in the rear body area, behind the intercoolers. It does not show in any of the 996 PETs, the parts guy found it in the Cayenne 951 PET. May be in others as well.

It's a plug. Me and my parts guy at the dealer now believe it is 99970346240. I've ordered 10 of them, I will know in a few days if that's what they are.

I can't find the P/N of the plastic body plugs found under the intercooler areas, 996TT. They're 10mm inner diameter, 17.5mm outer diameter and are hat shaped. Out of the 8, I only have one survivor and would like to put them all back. Here's a photo, next to one of the M8 screws that holds the intercooler frames.

As I'm used to metric, I converted the values above. So for the doors, 0.14 cf is about 4 liters. Feels about right, however when you mention 3 cf for the 13WS, that's almost a 60 liter box! That would be a monster sub box to have in a car and for a 13in driver. Went back to my archives and the recommendation is actually 3 to 7 liters, which means that the Bose original box is not bad. 13WS datasheet.pdf 13WS product sheet.pdf

If your car is MY2003 and later then it is a MOST bus car, i.e., the audio units, radio, CD, amps, communicate with each other using fiber optics. That box is a MOST bus interface for the PCCM+ to be able to communicate with the amps. All MY2003+ cars need that box.

Turbos did not have that. That's only for halogen lights cars (only non-Turbo/non-GT2) until MY00 with the M605 option. The little wheel that went into the place of that cover is 996 613 230 01 A01, Potentiometer, headlight levelling system.

For quite some time the feel of my brake pedal (02 TT) doesn't feel right, spongy and easy to reach the bottom. Stopping power feels ok, but need to go deep on it. Brakes were just bled at the dealer, no change in the feel. I didn't discuss any of this with them, as I'm used to do all my corrective maintenance and only let them do the minimal scheduled so as to have the stamps on the book. Having another person pressing the pedal whilst I look at the Master Cylinder/booster/ABS pump area, engine off, there's lots of unexpected noises: clear spring noises coming from inside the MC and bubbly/squishy noises that appear to come from the lines going into the main ABS controller unit. No leaks are visible anywhere. No bubbles are visible on any of the unions. Another thing that has puzzled me for a while, is the appearance of drops of hydraulic fluid on the surface of the fluid reservoir. Some ends up collecting in the channel surrounding the reservoir. It's as if it is leaking through the cap, although I have replaced it with a brand new OEM cap. The level of the reservoir does not go down with time, never had to top it with fluid. Anybody had any of these symptoms? I'm tempted to either replace the MC (750€, not a trivial cost) or to take it out, open it and check the seals. Not sure about this option either because I may end up buggering a good and expensive thing and not solving the problem.

I also had both for years. I did an overhaul of my SAI system during the COVID lockdown, replacing both of the 20-year old diverter valves with 710P from a VAG dealership (one of them did not hold any pressure), replaced all Pierburg electrovalves, Ts, Ys, Xs unions and some of the piping. Result: P0491 disappeared, P0492 still there. I can hear the pump working at startup, testing it with Durametric works fine, so that shouldn't be it. Still scratching my head, but truth be told, I haven't done a leak check yet (which I should have done first) but already got the plugs to do it, just need to find the time.

Sorry, nope, at the bottom of my list of priorities at the moment...

Actually, haven't got'round doing this yet.

If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.

Here's official information for the US: https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-deta...643749#recalls Quite a few interesting technical details.

Here's official information for the US: https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-deta...643749#recalls Quite a few interesting technical details.

Please see my post here:

Just read this: Safety problem with Ohlins R&T on 996 turbos - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Turbo Forum - Safety problem with Ohlins R&T on 996 turbos - Just saw this on Facebook, sent an email to Ohlins EU and they... I bought mine on 06/2018 from design911.com and installed them on 09/2018. No problems since and very happy with their performance but now I’m concerned. Design911 confirmed this to me today but they have no further details. Also wrote to Ohlins directly but had no replies yet. Will post this in the Carrera forums as well because of the 4S guys.

Sorry, but i have to insist. Cars are not designed that way, they do not draw from the battery at idle, batteries would not last through a single winter of urban traffic jams as they would never be recharged after they started the engine. There's no point in continuing this discussion.

Family in new car, dead winter, night, snow storm. Car goes off-road and gets stuck in snow in the middle of nowhere. Car is idling, heater at max, radio playing, headlights on, window defrosters on. Alternator not putting out enough current and needs to draw current from the battery to keep everything running, "as designed". After a couple of hours, battery dies and the engine follows suit. Family dies. Manufacturer says: "Tough luck, car was working as designed". Doesn't happen in a car working to spec.

Sorry, that cannot happen in a modern, well functioning car. If it were, cars would not idle for long. Battery would be depleted and there would not be enough current to keep the car running. If they had big aftermarket amplifiers then that surely can happen. Stock consumers, that doesn't happen. That's why the bassbombing crews install bigger alternators, bigger batteries and capacitors to increase available current reserve to feed the monster subs. To have all that working properly, it may even require an ECU remap to compensate for increased idle torque due to the bigger alternators. That's what they do in police cars. As the loads increase, the regulator compensates the voltage drop by letting more current flow through the exciter which in turn increases the magnetic force generated by the field, hence causes more drag on the engine and the ECU injects more fuel to compensate for the added necessary torque. Engine RPM changes little, output torque increases what is required to put out more current. There is no way to properly test an alternator in the car, only in a bench, there's no way to cycle it to max load and back in the car.

Any recent car has an electrical system designed to not let that happen, if working per spec. The alternator produces enough energy to all the consumers in the car at all regimes. The 996TT has a nominal 150A alternator which provides max current, if needed, already at idle. AFAIR, those Bosch alts max at 1300rpm (alt rpm, not engine). It's just 2.8HP stolen from the engine anyway. If a consumer requests more current, the regulator ensures that it is provided. What that behaviour tells is that the alternator and/or regulator were not to spec. From the moment you turn the engine on, the battery is not doing anything other than getting recharged from the starting effort. As one throttles up and down, the battery will serve as a sink that will smooth out voltage peaks, shielding the electronics from those peaks. Other than that, start the engine and take the battery out if you want to, engine will continue to turn happily, lights will remain on, music will continue to sound. Possibly fry the ECU as well since voltage peaks will not be filtered. If those cars needed a battery to have basic, stock consumers working properly at idle, the alternator and/or regulator was shot (or there is a severe current transmission issue) and those new batteries became very old very quickly because they wouldn't get properly charged.

Let me try to get this thread back to its original intent: I bought a new interesting toy for my car and am sharing my experience with the other members. I have learned a lot in this forum, much more than I have given back and occasionally I try to share a bit of my knowledge and experiences here and in other forums I participate in. For quite a few years, I have been also giving back in financial support to help keeping the place up and running. Let me also make a disclaimer: I don't work for or in any way am affiliated or have any interest in battery manufacturers, resellers, car dealers, workshops, race teams, whatever. I won't also go on to claim high levels of technical knowledge or authority on anything and certainly this is not the place to do so. You can look me up in Linkedin, that's where I believe to be the place to ruffle professional peacock feathers to try and get attention to gain some professional and hopefully, financial advantage. If you find me there, you can have an idea of my level of professional technical knowledge, if any. I come to places like this to have fun, proudly showing my toys and enjoying somebody else's as well as looking for help in solving technical problems and giving back when I can. I don't understand why this is happening in this thread, an insistence on demeaning a toy, copy/pasting specifications of a different battery to try and make a point against another battery because they look the same? What is this? Further, claiming that lithium batteries are no good to start a street car because one race team in one competition starts their cars with off-board AGM batteries and then switch to on-board lithium, thereby lithium are no good for street cars, is laughable. What do racing conditions and hardware have to do with street cars? Guess what, many race teams in many competitions change Michelin tires twice per race, thereby Michelin tires are no good. In these few days of use, this battery has been performing beautifully in the car, starting it without hesitation or hiccup and showing no signs of lack of power under any circumstance. If you have seen cars with their engines running and having issues with headlights dimming when the stereo or AC was running, then I suggest to check the electrical system in other elements other than the battery since that would be unrelated. Let me very clear, again: I'm not claiming any kind of superiority of the battery I bought over any other kind. I don't care. I'll be reporting back on this thread on my experience over time, so that others may have an idea on how good or bad this particular battery is for this particular application: Porsche 996 Turbo living in a temperate climate and sleeping every night in a garage where temperature never goes under 18ºC.

This is my battery: This is the one you were talking about: In the box you get screw-on optional SAE terminals. It appears that in Australia they supply brass and the European distributor supplies aluminium ones, which are the ones you can in my car. They can be screwed on in multiple ways, as convenient. In my case, I screwed them on sideways, otherwise the battery cables would not reach the terminals.

Now I noticed where you picked that, it’s the wrong battery: Lithiumax RESTART9 EV/HYBRID Series ULTRA-LITE Vehicle Battery | Lithiumax 2020 WWW.LITHIUMAX.COM.AU The perfect battery for your EV, PHEV or HYBRID vehicle. Delivering reliable, environmentally friendly and safe power to start PHEV and... that one is for EVs, PHEVs and the like.

Never seen that push button statement, that’s interesting. Can you please point me there? My battery is this: Lithiumax GEN 3 RESTART9 LCD 900CA ULTRA-LITE Engine Starter Battery | Lithiumax 2020 WWW.LITHIUMAX.COM.AU The all new Autosport International Award Winning Lithiumax RESTART9 LCD battery. Weighing just 3.9kg the NEW 3rd... That’s the manufacturer website. This does have a push button that’s there for 2 things, per the manual: 1. Press it and the voltage shows up in the LCD. 2. If the undervoltage protection is triggered, it shuts down and a button press wakes it with sufficient reserve to start the car. In this car, that would be fun, with a locked hood... @Silver_TT, twisties and pasteis de nata are a killer combination! 😂🤪

Right, so out of curiosity, just emailed the manufacturer in Australia and they replied in about 30 seconds: "The RESTART9 is nominal 24Ah and 800CCA." Not toooooooo different from my guestimation.

I was comparing the small lithium battery values in my bike its mfg published (real Ah vs "PbEq" Ah; CA and CCA) with the bigger lithium battery in my car, for which the mfg only published "PbEq" Ah and CA and since it's more or less apples to apples (LiFePO4 to LiFePO4) I was making an approximation to come up with possible missing values for the bigger battery. Given there's a relatively hight probability that the same Chinese manufacturer made the LiFePO4 cells in both (BYD, CATL, AVIC, etc), it's not too bad an assumption.