Right, after installing the Clarion nav/mm unit, I decided to go on to the next step, replacing everything else.
Being an hifi buff, and using room eq correction at home (using TAG McLaren AV32R DP and REW software), I had to have the same at my car.
So, after loads of research, I came up with the following BOM:
4 x Focal 13WS - 130mm subwoofers): two went to the doors to replace the 11.6 cm Bose, two to the rear bassbox to replace the same size Bose units;
4 x Focal 100KP - 100mm cm mid driver and 52mm tweeters) to replace the indash and side-rear same sized Bose;
2 x Alpine PDX4.150 amplifiers - Small size was one of the choice factors, since I didn't really want to fill up the small trunk with amps. I needed eight channels, 2 of them being bridged. Because of the Focal speakers, I considered the Focal 4.75 amps, but these were A/B amps with low efficiency and too large. Same problems with my first choice amps, McIntoshes: these A class monsters would drain my battery in a matter of minutes with the engine off, and use most of the trunk!;
1 x Alpine PXE-H650 processor - the heart of the system: crossovers, time alignment and room correction equalizer.
Lots of cables, connectors, tie wraps and other supplies.
Bottom of rear bassbox, already with Focal 13WS units installed
Zoom of the same
Interior of the bassbox
Zoom of one the Focal 13WS. These were wired in parallel, for a combined impedance of 2 ohm
Rear speakers being modified. HAd to cut a lot of plastic to make these fit. Still missing is the toilet paper (!!!) fill, combined with epoxy glue to fill the still visible gaps
General view of the system in the trunk
PXE-H650 processor, installed using the CD-changer bracket
Same thing
Same thing
Left amp, channels 3 and 4 are used for the in dash speakers, channels 1 and 2 for the door subs
Right amp, channels 3 and 4 are used for the rear speakers, channels 1 and 2 bridged for the bassbox
Only modification visible inside, the IR sensor for the PXE-H650 remote.
The single largest part of the work was rewiring the speakers: had to remove most of the trim and carpet of the interior of the car. I used leftovers from several generations of my home theater setups. For the bassbox, I used TAG McLaren F3-SPK cable, all the rest being Bandridge Flex Speaker cable, 1.5mm2 and 2.5mm2. For the rear speakers, I used 2.5mm2 due to the longer lengths required, for the in dash, 1.5mm2. To connect the crossovers to the drivers/tweeters, I used the biwire version of the Bandridge Flex 1.5mm2 cable.
Unfortunately, I was unable to rewire the door woofers, I didn't have the required supplies available required to redo the inner door insulation, if I went on with that bit. I rewired them only from the firewall onwards. This increased resistance a bit, but most likely not noticeable.
file____C__Program_20Files_...pdf
After folowing the calibration procedure using the supplied software, these are my results, using a choice of target equalisation curve
To pass cables, I used the service grommet in the left footwell (drilled holes in it and then sealed it with silicone), plus two other rubber grommets (to pass cables from the battery "wet" area to the trunk itself), which I also drilled in the available areas around the cable bundles already there.
In all, a full weekend, plus a week of evenings work, added by a bit of money, and that's the result: an extremely good sounding system, way, way better than the original stuff (never liked a single Bose system ever...).