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p0rsch3

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Everything posted by p0rsch3

  1. p0rsch3
    How do you obtain access to the rear shock top nuts from inside the cab? I see there is a cover panel behnd rear seats, and once the panel is removed access to the top nuts are probably right under it- but I am not sure how to take off the interior cover panel without damaging something. Any tips / pointers would be appreciated!
  2. p0rsch3
    Very nice! Love the OZ wheels. Sweet wing from Misha. IMO you need a "911" logo out back painted in silver, would look hot! www.bumperplugs.com
  3. p0rsch3
    Just pulled the trigger on this 06 997 cab last week. 1-owner, all records, 14k miles, pampered car, all options except Sport Chrono and multi-function wheel. Serviced by Circle Porsche in Long Beach and just had the first service performed right before I bought it, 2-year brake fluid change and with a new set of PS2 rubber out back! Driving impression has been very good- it really does not "feel" like a cab in regards to cornering and lack of rigidity of the chassis. 997 cabs are definitely an improvement over 996 cabs in this respect. So anyway, mods commencing- so far have changed the rear badge to "911" custom painted in platinum silver, added HR spacers (15mm R / 7mm F), S tips, NavTV ipod interface, 35% 3M ceramic tint, K/N intake, Porsche factory clear side markers. Coming next: SSK, Bilsteins and drop, silver hood crest, ECU flash, SmartTop, paint center console and of course the AfterHours Sport Mufflers! -And I finally got away from the tip and into a 6speed- So much better!!! Here's some (large) pics- enjoy- I am digging on this Midnight Metallic color- it is stunning blue in the sunlight, midnight blue in the shade and looks black at night, the color shift is sensational!
  4. p0rsch3
    I came across a set of brand new in-package OEM gauge faces for 997. I can get them in either sand beige to match my interior, or white. Is it difficult to open the gauge cluster and swap the faces? Special tool needed for removing needles? Trying to determine the "effort to reward" ratio of doing this. Wondering if anyone has done this or has info on dissassembly of the gauge cluster- TIA!
  5. p0rsch3
    Thanks Loren- guess that confirms it's not worthwhile.
  6. p0rsch3
    Sure- On a hotrod no prob, you're pretty much going straight very fast and stopping hard (think 1/4 mile). Actually I did this on my 67 ragtop mustang and it worked out stellar. On a pcar I'd be concerned about inconsistent brake fade (front S brakes ok and rears getting soft) while on the track or in the twisties for a length of time. I'd rather deal with consistency on all fours. This does not seem to be something that has been done by anyone- must be a reason.
  7. p0rsch3
    Ah- sounds like the master cylinder or brake booster may be different as well. Either way, over-braked in front and leaving standard rears might not work so hot.
  8. p0rsch3
    Thanks Loren- do you feel it would be beneficial to upgrade the fronts and leave the standard rears? I hate to see a good set of S brakes go to waste, but I don't want to do any mods which could negatively affect braking performance of the car.
  9. p0rsch3
    I was offered a relatively new set of 06 997S front brakes and rotors. Is it feasible to change out the standard front 06 997 brakes for these? Anything else involved besides changing the carriers? Are the rear S brakes the same as standard 997 rears or larger / thicker disks as well? I've poked around on the usual pcar forums and didn't find much on the topic- Found a few threads started with the same question, but no answers. TIA-
  10. p0rsch3
    I can't imagine it would be practical to convert a car. There are all sort of tubes and wiring running around the car to support PASM. I would think if it was that important to you, buy a car with it factory installed. Actually, it was a question posed by a friend of mine while discussing 997's. The PASM shocks just have a single plug wire coming out of the top of each, and there is a central control module that plugs into a spot on the car. Obviously the dash button is needed as well. Most cars come pre-wired for things like CD changer, phone, NAV, etc- so wondering about this as well. Looking at a parts manual, there are no wires or tubes listed- Just the control module (1), button (1) and shock / spring assemblies (4). Tehnical question is all.
  11. p0rsch3
    Odd question- What is needed to retrofit PASM on an 05/06 997 that did not come with it? Just the control module and 4 shock assemblies, plus the dash button? Wondering if all 997 cars came pre-wired. TIA-
  12. p0rsch3
    Thanks Loren, interesting indeed- I wonder why the consistent high prices for overall parts / labor? That seems very skewed. Is it tough to replace the relay? That's the only other thing I can think of that might boost the cost...
  13. p0rsch3
    thanks for the suggestions- dealer has a tizzy-fit if you try to provide your own parts... the big cost here seems to be labor, going by book rate obviously. I sure do miss having a house / full garage / full set of tools & lift available. soon!!
  14. p0rsch3
    well, got quotes from a couple of indy's and other dealers. prices ranged from $850 to $1340. So I guess it is what it is... :(
  15. p0rsch3
    Thanks Loren- I will do that Monday morning. They know my car is kinda "stuck" there so I definitely don't want to be overcharged. I had no idea that calibration was neccessary, very interesting- if it's not too involved would you mind explaining it just for my knowledge?
  16. p0rsch3
    Just my luck, friday afternoon my car won't start and I'm stuck several miles from home. From the symptoms it definitely seemed like it was not getting any fuel, which could mean bad pump, relay or heaven forbid DME. 35k miles on the car. The only place able to get my car in on short notice was the dealer, after inspecting they determined it was the fuel pump. Estimate they gave me is $945 to replace it. Isn't that kind of rediculous? The pump is around $300 right? I can't see it taking $650 in labor to replace it. <_< Can anyone on the shop side of the business give me input on what reasonable parts / labor should be for this? TIA
  17. p0rsch3
    Thanks for the info- very much appreciated!
  18. p0rsch3
    How is it wired when you use the RCA pre-outs? What are you doing with the "negative" side of the RCA lines? hooking pos / neg of the RCA outputs to pos / neg input wires to the factory amp.
  19. p0rsch3
    Welcome!! Saw you over on 6speed. This is a GREAT site. Have a fun weekend with your new ride :)
  20. p0rsch3
    I have a friend with a 99 C2, non bose. Installed a pioneer head unit and hooked up to factory amp / speakers. sound is horrible! Should it be wired RCA-level or speaker-level from the pioneer to the factory amp? both ways sound bad, static, etc. The pioneer head unit is a new one with 5v pre-out on the rca lines. Best we can get is with the RCA output hooked up to the factory amp, but haveto turn volume all the way up to get reasonable output and even then it is staticy. amp does tun on, all wiring seems right. Thoughts?
  21. p0rsch3
    Loren- I think that was it. Pulled the radio and I had left the blue/brown wire attached to the radio chassis bracket connector. There is a factory spade connector on the radio mount bracket that the wire plugs in to, and a piece of metal makes conact with the body of the aftermarket radio. The wire comes out of the bundle of wires for the intermittent wipers. I unplugged the wire and taped it up, I will know in a couple of days if this resolved the issue.
  22. p0rsch3
    Yes - please read the posts in this thread from March 1st, and go buy yourself a very long 5mm allen wrench (at least 6 inches long). - it's very easy to do.
  23. p0rsch3
    Thank you- You are a true walking encyclopedia of pcar knowledge :) Use the wire colors from the MY02 diagram below
  24. p0rsch3
    Thanks Loren, always appreciate your expertise- how do I determine which one is pin 2 and which one is pin 5?
  25. p0rsch3
    Loren- I am installing a GT3 MKII wing on my '02 C2 Coupe, do I need the -51 harness or can I just jump pin 2 to pin 5 in the exisiting harness and be done with it? Are the pins marked or if now which is the count direction?
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