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ALEV8
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Everything posted by ALEV8
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If I EASE to s stop there's barely any shudder if at all....but the shudder upon starting the car when it's cold is very pronounced. My Durametric is not revealing anything though fault code wise! -
Seriously? Do you know which year / model fit the 04 CTT? I'd like to grab a spare set asap. The sound is crunching, literally crunching. That said ECS has them for 185$ versus a well used part for $60 less....
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I just went ahead and bought the Turbo S lower arms but have not installed them. The front end is clunking like an MFer now and squeaks when its cold. Additionally there's clunking transmitting up the steering column now. Drives me nuts. I fear the arms AND a CV are bad so gotta do it all. Merry Xmas! The wife's X6 tires are shot.....proprietary Conti 21" @ $6 hundo a pop.......new takeoff 20" wheels and tires would be cheaper from eBay!
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Ok I'm listening.....how'd ya do it?
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tee hee.......these are readiness codes so the car needs to be driven a bit before they reset and I barely drive.....
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This has to be a CV. Boot inspection reveals nada. Usually the boot goes first OR its an inner and not an outer?
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I've had a grinding clunking noise coming from the front right corner for about two years that is intermittent. Experience tells me that the sound exactly like a thrashed CV joint. Bearing in mind the all-wheel-drive system, if the wheel is cut hard to the right or left on uneven pavement it sounds pretty bad. before diving into the stuff I wonder if the front differential could be an issue? This vehicle had a front differential replacement under warranty.
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I was reading incorrect value. Voltage is indeed 14.4V..... I will add my 02 sensors and cats failed efficiency tests and the 02 heater passed.......whatever that means. Should I be concerned?
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Will do and the voltage fluctuated just slightly with a peak of 13.85…
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So I pitched the brand-new laptop and took the old 2009 Dell Inspiron 1545 and fired it up, lo and behold it worked fine. Looks like my voltage was at 13.58 Loren, with the car running. I didn't have an off hard drive space to run Boot Camp on my MacBook air.
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I went out and purchased a new Dell to run this program. Of course it doesn't work. Won't even launch it. Durametric can't be reached at all....I've been on hold an hour. I'll add what a POC this laptop is. I think I'll just return it and run Bootcamp...jesus....this literallybrand Nu out of the box laptop has slowed down from the time I turned it on an hour ago. Just like the old days before Apple took over the world.
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OK so today I have to learn how to clear the SERVICE NOW message.....and with a battery charger on it or running.
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Loren will do that ASAP. Despite replacing everything needed and wanted from reading this forum, for a 126k mi 04 Turbo, starting has become balky again. I was under the impression you had to run the durametric with the car in accessory position on the ignition.
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I will run the scan test again with the car running (was not while testing) as that 907 is a voltage issue and I have a brand-new battery.
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Vehicle electrical system Current fault codes 907 load management operat. on vehicle electrical system./DME control module-no additional fault status available, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1520 rain sensor/light sensor-implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 2197 potentiometer 4 foot well lights-implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light Seat memory driver Current fault codes 1897 steering column adjustment sensor horizontal short circuit to B+ 2327 Seat angle adjustment sensor short circuit to B+ 2332 backrest angle adjustment sensor short-circuit to B + Seat Memory passenger Current fault codes 2327 seat angle adjustment sensor short circuit to B+ Not sure what to do with these but I was able to clear everything except for the electrical system fault 907. Ideas anyone?
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Exactly what I was thinking and Toshiba has one for $249 with a Pentium chip, plenty o RAM, 500 GB hdd....so why not just spend $100 more. Everybody seems to ebay theirs off these days and second hand PC laptops can really suck. Even if it's a limited use machine I'd like it to run Durametric smoothly. Must be a Pentium chip though right? No AMD chips, correct? Borrowed the neighbors HP Win 8 Pavilion AMD powered laptop which is pretty new 1.8 gig chip see results below:
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I'm just going to buy a Toshiba for 249$ and call it a day, and NOT screw with my Air. Just a bit more dinero than Parallels and Win retail. I'll just leave that laptop out in the shop anyway.
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Uh 80 bucks and a copy of windows....gonna find a used laptop I guess.
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It is? I have a copy but it's like Parallels 5. No copy of Windos tho....God Parallelels was a nightmare back wen I was using it a while back. Is it true using Bootcamp opens the partition and thus the machine to viruses?
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Went berserk today trying to figure out what to do and how not to spend a bunch of money I don't need to spend on a dedicated laptop. Just curious what some of you guys recommend or have direct experience with regarding this. I'm a Mac guy so that route seems to make sense and the number same way cheaper. Need some help here.
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For sure tho the 02s should get replaced by now and clean the throttle body?
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Or shall I clean MAFs?
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Service TB & new/ clean MAFs plus new 02 sensors are on my replace list anyway with 125k on the clock and mounts will be last. I promise Surametric will also be purchased - but I've covered the few of his list.