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clarksongli last won the day on May 17

clarksongli had the most liked content!

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    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
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    1984 VW Rabbit GTI

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Community Answers

  1. I found your excellent post on the Kessy repair but the pictures are no longer there.  Could you report them or send them to me?


    Thank you!

  2. Im trying to find more info on your kessy fix post? Our 2009 cayenne turbo s will only power on ( radio, lights,air all work) but the dash only comes up with porsche graphic. The check engine light and all others that are supposed to light up do nothing. Any help would be appreciated .

  3. Heh this a random question but the rear subframe frame bolt on the passenger side? Does it exit into the cabin under the carpet? My bolt is broken side so if I can get to the back side I can just install a nut. Long shot but hopefully someone has taken the carpet up before. Thanks
  4. There is a battery under the drive seat, and some have the option of a secondary battery in the spare tire well. There isn't a battery just for the security system that I'm aware of (you disconnect the main battery and everything electrical dies)
  5. So you can run pure water with a corrosion inhibitor. this is very typical at the track and what I personally use in my track car. However the problem you describe doesn't sounds all that crazy.....how hot is it outside? Remember idle is probably the worst scenario, Zero airflow over the radiator, lowest speed on the water pump. Mine will climb past center and then drops when the fans kick on. My alternate method is to keep the A/C on.....which keeps the small fan running once about 180F......it then remains constant. I do have about 80k on my waterpump though. Just another data point, but I'm thinking you could just be experiencing normal operation at idle. Have you checked to see if your rad fans are even turning on?
  6. What I did was used a little razor blade and scraped the exposed pin surface of all contamination (you'll be surprised the thickness of corrosion on the pin). Once you work it back and forth a little the pin will eventually start to move. I tried the hammer method but it made it worse as it just forced more of the corrosion into the already tight fitting hole.
  7. So the first thing. Typically the display that says the rear hatch is open is generally for the GLASS portion......this is a known problem where the microswitch. Typically people either unplug the switch, or adjust the striker on the glass portion. Now to your problem. I'd plug everything back in, take it for a quick spin, turn the car off and lock it. THEN unlock it like normal and try the handle. If nothing, then crawl in and see if you can actuate it by pushing right. I've had situations where things "lock out." a good example is unlocking just the truck prevents me from unlocking any doors until I close the lid and then press the unlock for all doors.
  8. is this the one that Tees into 2 metal lines behind the manifold? If so that connects to a vent line to each turbo. You're fine running it as it isn't safety critical. But definitely get it fixed sooner rather than later.
  9. Agreed with JFP in that I'm always a little concerned with generic scanners. they give really vague and usually wrong info haha. But anyways, my guess is either your seats have not received the "airbag resistance" fix, or they have and the connections are a little loose. The airbag reset is stored in the NVM so simply removing power will not reset the light. You will need a durametric for that. Underneath each front seat you should see the following. I could see mine from the rear with a mirror. if you have only the connector and no splice then you need to get that recall done(dealer should do it for free). if you see the splice, then it means the connection isn't 100%. either solder them, or you can try recrimping them. Reset the airbag and see if it comes back http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads17/955_airbag_conn_zoom_free1271277240.jpg
  10. Just as a quick note of reference. I had trouble with my module until we realized it was programmed for a European model. Re programmed the module to a US version and everything worked. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
  11. That is typical. If you think about how the joints are held together....you are essentially pinching one tube over another. There will not be a perfect seal. The exhaust cement above or high temp rtv can fix that if it really bothers you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
  12. Welcome. I have an '04 turbo.....I have the same unit in my car. Sadly you don't have the newer PCM. Is the nav not working at all? personally I played with the idea so I could get the same luxuries.....ultimately I decided not to. But my navigation is working. my thought is leave it alone until it breaks. It's an older car, but very advanced for the year it was built. The aftermarket options you have, while offer more features, I feel detract from the unified functionality of the dash and it will be obvious you have shoved an aftermarket unit into a Porsche. When people ask where is the Bluetooth I simply reply my CTT is about the driving experience, not about talking on my phone or how many cup holders I have.
  13. Really just guesses at this point without any scans.....have you pulled any of the coil packs and plugs? Drive the car like normal for a while, then come home and pulls plugs and coils.....you can tell a lot about the engine based on the plug color and condition. Inspect the packs and see if you have cracks in them. I don't recommend just arbitrarily replacing coils like Lewiswelller.....you could spend 400 bucks and still not know what the problem is, but as I mentioned, there is an easy was to diagnosis a whole host of issues with just the plugs.
  14. So they do sell exhaust cements and RTVs. It is normal for small leaks to be at each joint (you will see signs of condensation dripping), but you shouldn't have any large leaks (holes). If you are concerned with various small leaks at the butt joint clamps you can use the cements or RTVs.....if you have holes or the leak is at the flanges, you should replace the damaged section or gasket. Here is an example of the cement you can find online: https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-35958-Hardware-Muffler-Cement/dp/B000CQHVLI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219439&sr=8-5&keywords=exhaust+sealant
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