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phillipj: Wow, but then again not surprising. It is the mentality of many stealerships: "Can't figure it out...replace the motor." "No sir your warranty expired, $22,000 please." dr914jr: I really hope so too, I told a friend of mine here at work about your suggestion and he said if that fixes it, then you deserve a medal...I would have never figured that one out. And my attention has definitely been focused on that sound.

wross996tt: No sir it still makes the noise with the clutch pedal depressed...and I am starting to become depressed. dr914jr: That does sound absolutely crazy, but I am going to check them out first thing tomorrow morning...after it is cooled down. Would I be experiencing power loss? Because the car runs absolutely perfectly, no issues whatsoever...except the annoying squeak. If that is the case, I suppose it kind of makes sense, this morning I noticed that the sound is indeed a bit more loud after first start-up than at the end of my 18 mile commute. Perhaps metal expansion is causing the gaps to close a bit more?

I did a search on squeaks and found nothing regarding this problem. I have a 1999 996 C2, PSS9 Suspension, recent clutch job. I recently did a track day about three weeks ago, squeak showed up a week ago. Only did a total of 30 laps all day on a 1.4 mile 14-turn course. Squeak happens slightly on startup, always in low range when taking off, low range in second, thrid, all the way up. once I get over 3000 rpms, the squeak goes away. Does it when hot, cold, etc. Myself and the mechanics checked almost everything: 1. Thought it was the fan belt, removed the fan belt and it still squeaks 2. Thought it was bearings, did donuts in both directions, still squeaked the same 3. Occurs with or without A/C on. 4. Occurs with clutch depressed and up, in and out of gear. 5. All pulleys were checked out and are fine (of course since the squeak still occurred after removing the belt) 6. A quick rev on the engine will cause a quick version of the same squeak as well. Sound is coming from undercarriage, rear passenger area. We had the rear end lifted, running, with two Porsche mechanics under it, and could not figure it out. We could reproduce the squeak by bogging the engine with the E-brake on at around 400-500 rpms. It is very consistent and does not go away..almost sounds like metal rubbing to produce a high pitched repetitive squeaking, then fades as the rpms go up. Anyone have any ideas? Please?

I just did a water pump, t-stat, and hose replacement on my '99 996 C2 (81k miles). Parts and instruction thanks to Renntech! :renntech: & I Love Sunset Imports (thanks to Jeff Clark) It is always nice to be surrounded by the lowest cost OEM parts and knowledgeable people that are ready to help. From what I have read, the coolant hoses nearest the engine need to be replaced at around 65k as preventative maintenance, due to the amount of heat exposure from the motor. I had accidentally broken part of a four-way hose (barbed nipple on top tee off of coolant expansion tank), but after inspecting the rest of that hose, I discovered cracking on both tee joints, and when removing found that one portion of the hose was fusing to the metal pipe that run alongside the motor (had to literally cut it off). Now I am waiting till after my clutch job (shop) to get back under the car and replace the other coolant hoses near the motor...and inspect for further damage that engine heat may be causing to other components.

I did the clutch in my '76 911S, but the 996 seems much more involved for a garage project without a lift. I am putting together a list of parts for my clutch job right now, which is going in for next week...so far parts including a flywheel/rms are putting me over $1300. I am told that the flywheel has to be replaced 99% of the time...or at least might as well be while you have it apart. Any opinions?

my 99 996 was keyed while I spent 5 minutes inside the grocery store...I called the ins company and had an estimate done. During the estimate, there was noticeable sandblast damage to the whole car and the estimator ended up claiming the entire car for a repaint...problem is that the estimate came out to only $3200. From what I have read everywhere, the min cost for a black 911 paint job that is decent would be $5000. Now I am going through tthe painstaking process of finding a decent paint shop here in El Paso, TX. I had some work done at a shop in Tucson last time, but they didn't put the panels together right (one headlight misaligned), and it took forever (just the front bumper was done). I am so nervous about getting the car painted that I really don't know what to do now...other than hand the car over to a shop and hope that they file a supplemental estimate to cover cost, and pray that the shop actually does a good job. Anybody here know what brand Porsche paint is? PPG? DuPont?

Speeding is illegal, so why would anyone that speeds worry about the legality of a jammer? so that one can break the law more effectively of course!

I have always been told that the better practice is to leave it out of gear and in neutral when waiting at a light. I assumed this was a universal practice. This is the first time somebody has told me you should leave it in gear with the clutch depressed...wouldn't this cause problems in the clutch master cylinder, if waiting at a prolonged light?

Is their a website for the Porsche Spec clutch/flywheel upgrades? Or does anyone else have suggestions on who to go through other than Spec or FVD? Any recommendations?

MEGA Dittos on that one. Jammer, detector, aircraft surveillence, NOTHING will help you in AZ because the AZHP will dream up your speeding ticket based on how fast you 'appear' to be going. Many of my friends have been stopped, but their V1 and/or escort radars never went off. A perfect example is from a road trip my buddies and I took, while cresting a hill, a trooper did not have his radar on and started fabricating citations after pulling us over: 911 - 116mph but was written up for 86, Lambo - 160mph but written up for 100 (the trooper had to guess because his radar wasn't on, whcih is why we didn't detect him) and get this, in a smaller town a VW R32 got a ticket for doing 30 in a 35. Entrapment is legal in the state of AZ, I would go around at all cost...especially if you are takin your Porsche. They actually have high-dollar speeding ticket attorneys in Phoenix...that's how bad the problems are there. Worse yet, I had a buddy that got a ticket for 87 in a 65, charged with criminal speed which is a class b misdemeanor. Another got busted for 12 over on the highway, failed to pay the fine by mail...later had his TX license suspended and the $180 ticket mysteriously jumped to a total of $975 once all the extraneous fees were attached. He had to pay it to have his license reinstated. The best way to travel through AZ is either by plane or Toyota Prius. In a 911 you will get cited. One of the attorneys in Phoenix explained AZ traffic law to me briefly: If it's a european car and out-of-state, it WILL be cited. They also have photo radar on the highways. Another example: I have driven clear through AZ (to SD and LA), several times, in a Scion xB and a Toyota Highlander at speeds over 90mph without getting cited...with no radar detector...a single trip on a 2-lane highway, I got popped in my 911, which not two weeks prior I was traveling at excessive speed in an xB with no problems. And I swear the cop was in an area with no reception so I couldn't dial an attorney or warn others. Sorry to sound so vigilant but in my opinion, the problem there is quite bad, and definitely a monetary threat to out-of-state travelers. So honestly, laser jammer or not, i really don't think it would help passing through AZ.

+1 on removing the mufflers, otherwise you may need a small indonesian child to reach the rear passenger side one for you.. :censored:

it is indeed low, but the wrench and I have become friends after a long history of running the local chapter of the porsche club. special rates i presume.

I always called tirerack with questions like that. They are pretty knowledgeable. This could vary widely depending on your suspension, ride height, etc.

I just got parts quotes totaling 505.91 for a clutch job (from sunset, :renntech: ), not including the flywheel...is it necessary to change the flywheel out, by the way? that cost is including all bolts, rms, spring, guide tube, etc. local Porsche wrench quoted 500 for labor total.

What could be causing the vibration in the clutch pedal do you think? And if the bubbles in the clutch fluid have the opposite effect, what harm could bubbles in your clutch be? I am going to bleed the bubbles from clutch next weekend and see what happens then. I guess in the meantime, is there an available parts listing for pulling the motor that anyone has available. This is going to be one of those "might as well do it while the tranny is out" kinda things.

mine will display radio station information if they transmit it, including the song they would currently be playing. so I know that the radio is capable of displaying text, but unsure if it could actually pick up encoded information from a CD.

I researched Bosch part numbers to gain a replacement alternator for my vehicle when it needed one. I picked one up for $110, turns out that the rear configuration is slightly different, but the loads and components were identical. It was a similar replacement part for an Audi. Using the part's manufacturer SN can save you $$ almost every time.

The bi-xenons have a special ballast attached to the back of your headlight assembly. Regular bulbs will not have this. Sound like the ballast may be going bad, similar to a 2x4 troffer light in a typical office ceiling space. I would get it tested by a an electrical shop.

I have a friend that very recently got screwed by vertex auto on his core charge. Sent in the old tranny and never got the core charge back. After calling them, they said they needed a couple of parts replacements before returning the core charge. He sent them exactly what they needed overnight, and they still refused to return the core charge. On top of this, the rebuild tranny they sent was missing several components. This happened not two months ago.

So I should most likely be focusing my attention on bleeding the air out of my clutch, since it most likely has many air bubbles in it that have migrated from the recent bleed. Would that be accurate?

Did a few searches here and came up empty handed thus far...either that or I am in denial. :o Anyway, here is the scenario: A little history: 1999 996 C2 6-speed currently at 78k miles 5-6 track days (DE), few high speed trips, plenty of road trips. :P one previous engine/clutch replacement at 25k miles ;) The engagment point of which you feel the clutch grab on - is usually in the middle area when depressing the clutch pedal. Seemed like from one day to the next, the clutch doesn't grab until the pedal is near the top (my foot nearly completely off the clutch pedal). I tried the hard acceleration 'trick' to see if my clutch was gone, but there was no slippage, clutch held and the car pulled hard as usual. If I push the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, it vibrates pretty good (enough to cause my pant to tickle my leg). When it is all the way up - no vibration, all the way down - hardly any vibration. Local Porsche wrench expert says may be the throwout bearing. We think the RMS leaks <_< (I think that's what we saw), but yet not enough to drip a single spot on my garage floor. We jsut did a full bleed on the brakes not three weeks ago, but previous searches here tell me that the reservoir to the brake and clutch fluids are not shared. I haven't bled the clutch fluid yet...mostly because I can't figure out where to add more fluid in yet. I found posts here on how to get the bubbles out, but none tell how to add more fluid back into the system. Any takers?

Thanks once again Loren :renntech:

if you do a search in the diy section, you should find good instructions there. I replaced mine fairly quickly with the help of diy instructions on replacing the emissions air mixing valve thing-a-ma-bobber...which included removal/replacement of the alternator.

I have the exact same leak, anyone have any info on the part numbers for the seal or sensor?

+1 for chevron..watch out for the 10% ethanol mixture crap that makes you lose acceleration and power...the local diamond shamrocks/valeros have them..not sure who else. I would assume shell would be good to since Porsche is sponsored by them.