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Everything posted by Carl-Fl

  1. :clapping: Thank you, it will come in handy in the near future Carl
  2. I went with EBC pads from Tire Rack and no squeal or dust. I did a DE event and they worked okay for me with no overheating. I believe they were about $90, it's been two years now. Good Luck Carl
  3. Thanks for the info. I'll pull off the interior panel and take a look. By running a water hose on the outside window I couldn't get it to leak and thought it might be leaking from lower door seal, but what you're saying makes more sense. Thaks again and will update asap. Carl
  4. Okay I read all the prevoius posts on this topic but none fits my situation. I get water leaking into the passenger side floor when it rains. The interesting part is the lower door carpet,(bottom of speaker), is also soaked. It would appear the water is coming from inside the door and draining into the cockpit. Anyone had this happen?, or any ideas? Thanx Carl
  5. Last spring (2004) I reluctantly sold my 99 due to financial problems. The car had all the updates and refinements thanks to the people on this board. I kept in contact with the new owner and we became friends. My situation began to turn around and regreted selling the car. After cautious negotions I was able to buy her back at the current market value with only 900 more miles on her. :cheers: Carl
  6. :clapping: Well, my dealer was kind enough to "lend" me the radio keys to pull the head unit. Low and behold the plugs in rear were not snapped in totally. I put some contact cleaner on them re installed and all is well. Thanks to all
  7. Heres the situation, I have a shop re-paint my interior dash panels and seat backs to match exterior silver color. They remove seats and console and run the battery down enough to not be able to restart. After charging and getting her started I re-enter my radio code, no problem. Radio acts normal but DSP won't come on. Acting like there isn't power to the unit. I feel the amp in the front trunk and it's cold. Is there and reset for the DSP or did the shop not re-hook everything? Thanks Carl
  8. Thanx Loren. My original thought was days gone bye with an old hydraulic lifter problem of dirt or contaminet. I didn't realize the Boxster used them. My 911 has solids and requires my attention more frequently. Carl
  9. Okay, today's newest adventure. My boxcar had been siting two days and when I started it up this morning(52 deg) it had a slight knocking or ticking sound for the first two minutes then stopped. It sounded like lifter noise from an old V8! The idle was a little rough but cleaned up when sound ceased. I walked around the car to try and isolated the area but then it got quieter. Any ideas? Sound familiar? By the way car is 99 2.5 w/21,000 miles, and no CEL on. Thanx in advance for any suggestions Carl
  10. I checked my service manual(cd) and all I found was a check for incoming voltage to the relay. Went home last nite and removed the relay to get correct part number off of it and of course dropped it on the garage floor. My dog immediatley saw this as an opportunity to play so I had to chase the relay thoughout the garage. Wrote the number down, reinstalled, and guess what! The top now works! I'm going to buy a new relay for spare just in case my dog isn't with me the next time this happens. Thanx again for the input.
  11. Well the next most popular top problem has entered my life. While stopped with the e-brake on, the top switch did nothing. I checked to make sure the PARK light was on indicating the e-brake switch had been contacted. Next I checked the fuse panel for any blown units, all looked good. My next thought was the infamous relay I've read about. Can this relay be checked someway? Can I ground the e-brake pin checking for a malfunction? How about a jumper wire eliminating the relay just to prove it is the culprit? Any thoughts or ideas are certainly welecomed. Also thanx to everyone in advance for
  12. Sorry about the delayed response but whenever it rained during the day I had my car cover on and guess what, no leaks. I check out the a/c drain line and all looked good. Checked all body drains and vacuumed them out. Yesterday it rained on the way to work so no chance to install the cover. When the work day was over the rain had stopped so I investigated any possible leaks. Well the passenger side floor was soaked! The water seems to be entering either thru to lower door seal under the speaker or thru the door bottom itself because the carpeted panel on the door was also saturated. I also sus
  13. Hey Grant, I saw you car in the newest issue of Excellence! Congratulations. :clapping:
  14. Great responses, thanks for the information. I'll update once I make the purchase. Thanks again Carl
  15. Has anyone purchased a OBD II reader for their boxcar? I've been contemplating buying a program for my laptop to read the fault codes. All units I've looked at state "import car" but yet to see one that says Porsche. Do these programs allow you to make changes to current settings or resets? Thanks in advance Carl
  16. The a/c drain was my first thought and I checked it. I also vacuumed out the front compartment water drains. It happened with the car parked outside work. It also had a lot of water on the door sills when I opened the doors. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep checking. Carl
  17. I've found water leaked into the passenger side footwell floor during a downpour yesterday. A friend told me there was a TSB about this. Any ideas what the cure was/is? Thanks Carl
  18. My car (99) idles at about 850 rpm. With the a/c on the idle remains the same. When I'm coming to stop and push the clutch in the engine rpm drops to about 600 and then rises to 850 almost stalling. Also when starting out from a stop with a/c on it is difficult to have a smooth takeoff. Is there a method to raising idle speed to about 1000 rpm? Is there a idle speed solinoid when a/c is on? Thanks in advance Carl
  19. Grant, I saw this car at the Porsche parade in Tampa two weeks ago. Excellent attention to detail throughtout the entire car! Access to rear suspension and engine is unlimited. Best of luck with new toy and ENJOY!. Carl http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....threadid=116376
  20. Sorry about continual questions regarding the top operations but, normally when I put my top up I can hear the drive motor load and then the light on dash goes out. Lately the motor load sounds, and the top latches but the light remains on. In the down position all works well. Any ideas? Thanks Carl
  21. Once again you have taken the time to resolve the issue, that is what makes this forum outstanding. It's time to perform the cable replacement. Sorry to continue on but, is this the only "weak link" in the top operation? Carl
  22. Thanks again Jeff, I'm not sure I understand. I have the "old" original 99 transmisions, with the original factory cables, but I cannot retrofit the newer cables. So my best bet is to replace with the same breakage prone cable? How about buying new "old" cables, cut the outers back, and install in place. Now I would have new hardware that has been modified for longevity, correct? If this is the perferred route, how much (length) are they trimmed back? How about access? One last thing, YOU ARE THE MAN!! THE TOOLMAN!! Carl
  23. Jeff, Thanks for the info. My car is a 99 so I'm going to check/replace the cable if not the newest version. Is the replacement straight foward without any special tools or methods? Carl
  24. PCA tech states that conv-top cables should be replaced before they break and cause damage to other components. They recommend changing them if they are exposed to prolonged high heat. Has anyone done this? Are there other premaintance items included? I'm looking for DIY info. Thanks in advance Carl
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