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GoodVibeGroove

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About GoodVibeGroove

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  • From
    South Lake Tahoe
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    99' Silver Boxster 2.5
    Porsche sport seats
    Super E-ram Electric Supercharger 1.7 psi boost
    Syn-lube permanent engine oil
  1. i'm stuck (no pun intended) on this part. i see what looks like a bushing on the outside of the inner arm. if i take the bolt out, and shine a light through, i only see threads through the arm and nothing behind it. should the bolt come out of the arm before tapping on it? so as to press the (rubber?) bushing i think i see? or should the bolt still remain in the threads while tapping it? thanks, chuck I know this thread is old, but I just changed mine out yesterday, and the bushing IS the part with the treads, it is metal. I puonded on the bolt with a rubber mallet as others did, but I guess my bushing was really tight and that did nothing. What I finally did was just use a pry bar unde the alternator and pry the right side up. That did the trick just fine. Also, for anyone else doing this, DO NOT waste you time lossening the bolts for the air intake manifold lik I did! I thought by doing this I would have more roomto work with....which I did, but it added 2 hours to the job for no good reason! Live and learn I guess.....
  2. I use Mirox SynLube in my 99" and it works great. I put it in over 5 years ago, when I bought my car used with 29,500 miles. The car now has 113,800 miles on it, and I have NEVER changed the oil. Mirox says it is good for 150k, car runs perfect on it, and it saves me so much time in not having to change the oil any more.
  3. I've been through hell and back with this issue. Worked with EVO and two dealers one independent mechanic, and Bosh directly. Between them and myself and 5 new MAF sensors, we never proved but one thing for sure, anything but the stock FILTER and air box will work with out causing the MAF to fail. Now weather this be due to the air flow not hitting the sensor properly, which was my theory (remember it used a hot spot and the sir across it to cool it off and the temp difference is used to calculate airflow) thus not letting it cool down low enough causing it to overheat and "burn" out. Or the fact that the cotton filter let it get contaminated (this is what everybody else thought) was the case, the end result was always a new MAF. I also tried using the stock airbox and new stock Mann filter with just an aftermarket tube, thus leaving the stock MAF in it's original housing, and still killed a MAF. So...I think that pretty much confirms my theory. This has taken place over a span of two years, lots of work, 7 trips to different dealers, dozens of hour long phone calls and many tears.
  4. This isn't really a permenant fix, but what i do for mine is I cut a small length of R/C airplance silicone fuel tubbing (about 1 1/2 inces) and just push it into the recepticle, this holds in the red release button and tricks the system into thinking the seatbelt is on. It is cheap inconspicuious and very quick to remove and toss into the ashtray when not in use :)
  5. Here are some pictures of my window replacement. These were taken today (about one year after I installed the new window) to show how well it has held up. The last picture is what not to do, I put a little glue on the out side to seal the new window where the old one had broken completely away from the fabric, this was a mistake, the glue after about 6 months or so turns yellow from sunlight, but seems to be just fine aslong as it is protected on the inside, the clear plastic window material must block UV light or something.
  6. Here's a solution I used to fix my 99' I bought a roll of the window material and made my own. Here are the steps, total cost was less then 30 dollars! First you put the new material over your old window, with a sharpie marker draw an outline to the shape of your window. Next cut out the new window with scissors, you can remove the line from the sharpie marker with rubbing alcohol. Next secure the new window over the old wiwindowith double sided tape, make sure the tape is at least an inch but not too far from the edges. Next use an glue called household goop or shoe goo (same thing) this can be bought at K-mart or most hardware stores. Put a bead of the glue between the old and new window around the edges and allow to dry for atat least days! Than after you are sure the glue is dry, you just cut out the old window from the inside of your car with a scissors, leaving about 1 inch of the old window in place where the glue is. This really works mine has held up for a year now, and looks perfect. one last thing, do not try to add more glue on the inside of the window after the old window is removed, I tried to do this to make it extra secure, and stoped after a few inches due to the bead of glue not looking uniform.
  7. I think i found it. www.powerchipgroup.com I was curious though, if your using the EVO intake, what made you decide not to use the DME upgrade they offer from GIAC? It looks like the GIAC chip produces better power from their dyno. I'd love to hear from anyone using the GIAC upgrade (sold by : EVO : rennsportsystems and others) ESPECIALLY anyone living in a high altitude area like me, I am having terrible MAF problems using an EVO cold air intake at high altitude (with or without an oiled filter) I can't go more then 10 minutes without it triggering the CEL. I am hoping a chip will do the trick! Has anyone tried an e-ram on their boxster yet? http://www.electricsupercharger.com If so, any MAF problems?
  8. THELION, I was wondering where you purchased your powerchip from? I am having trouble finding it, when I go to powerchip.com, they only show units for ford chevy and dodge... Thanks, Scott
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