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NC TRACKRAT last won the day on June 23 2018

NC TRACKRAT had the most liked content!

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  • From
    North Carolina, USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1995 Porsche 993 Coupe
    1998 Porsche C2S
    2015 Porsche Macan Turbo
  1. We installed them on our Turbo with 21-inch wheels and are quite pleased with the aesthetics and the ride quality. Really makes the car sportier.
  2. The RENNSTANDs are the safe and efficient solution and they're in production. They even have jack pads specifically for the Macan. I purchased four but you can get away with two, using them first on the front jacking points and then conventional jack stands with polyurethane protective pads on the yokes for the rear jacking points.
  3. To give yourself some peace & quiet while trying to re-code, try disconnecting the alarm horn. As I recall, it's underneath up on the driver's side rear, near the transmission.
  4. If you don't have the code, take down the info. on the IMMOBILIZER central control unit under the driver's seat and give that info. to your dealer. They should be able to obtain the 4-digit code.
  5. Probably referring to the intermittent wiper switch.
  6. I don't believe it's either. Looks "grey" to me.
  7. Mine isn't loud either...I believe because the relay that clicks isn't in the dash...It's in the trunk, right? To confirm, turn your signal on, open the trunk, then stand near the fuse box on the passenger side near the cowl.
  8. Then, I take it, you have no problem, just want to locate the relay. If so, it's R32 in the trunk electrical box.
  9. You don't indicate what year and model 993 but if none of the turn signals are working on '96 and up, try relay R32 in the trunk. If just one turn signal isn't working, try fuses 30,31,32,33 in trunk also.
  10. You don't need to start it up once a month. When you get ready to fire it up in the Spring, just pull the DME/Fuel Pump Relay, crank 'til you get oil pressure, replace the relay and start.
  11. Just a thought that someone bled the brakes and got air into the ABS. If so, it'll require bleeding with the factory "hammer" tool or using the method of bleeding while turning the ignition on which activates the ABS pump. You might check with an OBDII reader and see if it's throwing a code.
  12. Affirmative. The BMW Drive Cycle is a much abbreviated version of the extended one that most techs are familiar with. It can be accomplished in about 1/2 hour and just a few miles of driving if followed to the letter.
  13. Yep, "BMW Drive cycle" is a specific procedure you follow to make your OBDII ECU ready to pass inspection. Especially helpful if you've disconnected your battery shortly before an inspection is due. GOOGLE or BING to find the drive cycle procedure. If unsuccessful, let me know and I may be able to find a link for you.
  14. Suggest you do the "BMW Drive Cycle" to clear the ECU and get someone to check w/a code reader b4 re-test to ensure it's clear. The code just may have embedded itself and may require that you have a dealer or indy with a GT1 or AUTOLOGIC clear and reset your adaptives.
  15. Did your PA mechanic drop the heat exchangers and ream/clean out the tubes as well as replacing the SAI valve? Do a search here, pcar.com or one of the other forums and you'll find info. on the entire procedure. Certainly worth a try b4 going to the expense of a top-end re-build. Good Luck!
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