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NC TRACKRAT

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Everything posted by NC TRACKRAT

  1. We installed them on our Turbo with 21-inch wheels and are quite pleased with the aesthetics and the ride quality. Really makes the car sportier.
  2. The RENNSTANDs are the safe and efficient solution and they're in production. They even have jack pads specifically for the Macan. I purchased four but you can get away with two, using them first on the front jacking points and then conventional jack stands with polyurethane protective pads on the yokes for the rear jacking points.
  3. To give yourself some peace & quiet while trying to re-code, try disconnecting the alarm horn. As I recall, it's underneath up on the driver's side rear, near the transmission.
  4. If you don't have the code, take down the info. on the IMMOBILIZER central control unit under the driver's seat and give that info. to your dealer. They should be able to obtain the 4-digit code.
  5. Probably referring to the intermittent wiper switch.
  6. I don't believe it's either. Looks "grey" to me.
  7. Mine isn't loud either...I believe because the relay that clicks isn't in the dash...It's in the trunk, right? To confirm, turn your signal on, open the trunk, then stand near the fuse box on the passenger side near the cowl.
  8. Then, I take it, you have no problem, just want to locate the relay. If so, it's R32 in the trunk electrical box.
  9. You don't indicate what year and model 993 but if none of the turn signals are working on '96 and up, try relay R32 in the trunk. If just one turn signal isn't working, try fuses 30,31,32,33 in trunk also.
  10. You don't need to start it up once a month. When you get ready to fire it up in the Spring, just pull the DME/Fuel Pump Relay, crank 'til you get oil pressure, replace the relay and start.
  11. Just a thought that someone bled the brakes and got air into the ABS. If so, it'll require bleeding with the factory "hammer" tool or using the method of bleeding while turning the ignition on which activates the ABS pump. You might check with an OBDII reader and see if it's throwing a code.
  12. Affirmative. The BMW Drive Cycle is a much abbreviated version of the extended one that most techs are familiar with. It can be accomplished in about 1/2 hour and just a few miles of driving if followed to the letter.
  13. Yep, "BMW Drive cycle" is a specific procedure you follow to make your OBDII ECU ready to pass inspection. Especially helpful if you've disconnected your battery shortly before an inspection is due. GOOGLE or BING to find the drive cycle procedure. If unsuccessful, let me know and I may be able to find a link for you.
  14. Suggest you do the "BMW Drive Cycle" to clear the ECU and get someone to check w/a code reader b4 re-test to ensure it's clear. The code just may have embedded itself and may require that you have a dealer or indy with a GT1 or AUTOLOGIC clear and reset your adaptives.
  15. Did your PA mechanic drop the heat exchangers and ream/clean out the tubes as well as replacing the SAI valve? Do a search here, pcar.com or one of the other forums and you'll find info. on the entire procedure. Certainly worth a try b4 going to the expense of a top-end re-build. Good Luck!
  16. The very instructions you attached say: "To enter "0", turn the ignition switch from "off" to "on" 10 times".
  17. If you're looking at the gauge in the instrument cluster, fuggedaboutit. The dipstick is what counts. If you changed oil while the engine was cold, you probably added too much oil! Take the car out again and get it warmed up. Watch the oil temp gauge. It'll get to about 9:00, stay there for a few minutes, then drop down to about 8:00. That means the oil themostat has opened. Park on level ground and let the car idle for a few minutes. Now, check your oil by the dipstick. (hard to do with clean oil) I bet you'll show you have plenty of oil, probably too much. Shut it down and if so, siph
  18. Every now and then I miss one - sorry. Try 8608 or 8606 If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST Loren- Right on target with the first one! Profuse Thanks! What a great service you're performing! :clapping: Regards, NC TRACKRAT
  19. "Code request, please. Recent purchase of a '98 C2S but it had an aftermarket radio. As a condition of sale, I told them to get me a radio that came with the car. They got one from a re-cycler but it doesn't have the code. CDR210 from '98 Boxster WP0CA2987WU624586. s/n on side of unit : BE2282W5020180 Many thanks!" Posted the above last week. No response. Did I do something wrong? Wrong format? Pleeeze??? :help:
  20. Code request, please. Recent purchase of a '98 C2S but it had an aftermarket radio. As a condition of sale, I told them to get me a radio that came with the car. They got one from a re-cycler but it doesn't have the code. CDR210 from '98 Boxster WP0CA2987WU624586. s/n on side of unit : BE2282W5020180 Many thanks!
  21. Congratulations! The offset and larger tires, combined w/PSS9 could most definitely affect turning radius but, unless you know it's been done recently and correctly, I would make sure that the car is properly aligned and that, with the PSS9, it is properly lowered and corner-balanced. Research to find the best possible P-Car race/enthusiast shop with the right equipment and expertise to do the above. It's going to run you $350 to $500 depending on shop rate but will be well worth it.
  22. If you pass on it, can I have the contact info.? Seriously, the '95 is considered to be the BEST year by many. Sure, it's not the widebody and yes, it's down a few hp because of no VARIORAM but it's pure Porsche. No OBDII, just OBD I, and hopefully, it's too early and may not have the dreaded IMMOBILIZER. In addition, depending on the VIN, it may not have SAI (Secondary Air Injection). Just get a good PPI. If it passes, buy it and enjoy it! Thanks for the input. I was not aware that the 95 had OBD I (I thought they went to OBD II with the changeover from 964). I've heard that this
  23. If you pass on it, can I have the contact info.? Seriously, the '95 is considered to be the BEST year by many. Sure, it's not the widebody and yes, it's down a few hp because of no VARIORAM but it's pure Porsche. No OBDII, just OBD I, and hopefully, it's too early and may not have the dreaded IMMOBILIZER. In addition, depending on the VIN, it may not have SAI (Secondary Air Injection). Just get a good PPI. If it passes, buy it and enjoy it!
  24. Joe- As a relatively new owner of both a '95 Carrera and a '98 Carrera S, I can fully understand your concerns and share them. There will be others more knowledgeable on the forum who may offer us both some sage advice but as for a compression/leak-down test, I envision that to be a very tedious, labor intensive job, especially on the right bank of plugs. I wonder how anyone can get a good reading on compression or leak-down when it should be taken on a warm engine. As for the SAI, you may be interested in learning that very early '95 U.S. Carreras did not have SAI. I was fortunate to f
  25. Before you go out and buy stuff, check out Leatherique. They can supply you with their Rejuvenator Oil and color-matched dye that won't rub off. Unless you have warped pieces, I'd try their excellent products.
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