NC TRACKRAT

We installed them on our Turbo with 21-inch wheels and are quite pleased with the aesthetics and the ride quality.  Really makes the car sportier.

The RENNSTANDs are the safe and efficient solution and they're in production. They even have jack pads specifically for the Macan.  I purchased four but you can get away with two, using them first on the front jacking points and then conventional jack stands with polyurethane protective pads on the yokes for the rear jacking points.

To give yourself some peace & quiet while trying to re-code, try disconnecting the alarm horn. As I recall, it's underneath up on the driver's side rear, near the transmission.

If you don't have the code, take down the info. on the IMMOBILIZER central control unit under the driver's seat and give that info. to your dealer. They should be able to obtain the 4-digit code.

Probably referring to the intermittent wiper switch.

I don't believe it's either. Looks "grey" to me.

Mine isn't loud either...I believe because the relay that clicks isn't in the dash...It's in the trunk, right? To confirm, turn your signal on, open the trunk, then stand near the fuse box on the passenger side near the cowl.

Then, I take it, you have no problem, just want to locate the relay. If so, it's R32 in the trunk electrical box.

You don't indicate what year and model 993 but if none of the turn signals are working on '96 and up, try relay R32 in the trunk. If just one turn signal isn't working, try fuses 30,31,32,33 in trunk also.

You don't need to start it up once a month. When you get ready to fire it up in the Spring, just pull the DME/Fuel Pump Relay, crank 'til you get oil pressure, replace the relay and start.

Just a thought that someone bled the brakes and got air into the ABS. If so, it'll require bleeding with the factory "hammer" tool or using the method of bleeding while turning the ignition on which activates the ABS pump. You might check with an OBDII reader and see if it's throwing a code.

Affirmative. The BMW Drive Cycle is a much abbreviated version of the extended one that most techs are familiar with. It can be accomplished in about 1/2 hour and just a few miles of driving if followed to the letter.

Yep, "BMW Drive cycle" is a specific procedure you follow to make your OBDII ECU ready to pass inspection. Especially helpful if you've disconnected your battery shortly before an inspection is due. GOOGLE or BING to find the drive cycle procedure. If unsuccessful, let me know and I may be able to find a link for you.

Suggest you do the "BMW Drive Cycle" to clear the ECU and get someone to check w/a code reader b4 re-test to ensure it's clear. The code just may have embedded itself and may require that you have a dealer or indy with a GT1 or AUTOLOGIC clear and reset your adaptives.

Did your PA mechanic drop the heat exchangers and ream/clean out the tubes as well as replacing the SAI valve? Do a search here, pcar.com or one of the other forums and you'll find info. on the entire procedure. Certainly worth a try b4 going to the expense of a top-end re-build. Good Luck!

The very instructions you attached say: "To enter "0", turn the ignition switch from "off" to "on" 10 times".

If you're looking at the gauge in the instrument cluster, fuggedaboutit. The dipstick is what counts. If you changed oil while the engine was cold, you probably added too much oil! Take the car out again and get it warmed up. Watch the oil temp gauge. It'll get to about 9:00, stay there for a few minutes, then drop down to about 8:00. That means the oil themostat has opened. Park on level ground and let the car idle for a few minutes. Now, check your oil by the dipstick. (hard to do with clean oil) I bet you'll show you have plenty of oil, probably too much. Shut it down and if so, siphon it out from the filler tube, about 1/2 qt. at a time until you're where you need to be.

"Code request, please. Recent purchase of a '98 C2S but it had an aftermarket radio. As a condition of sale, I told them to get me a radio that came with the car. They got one from a re-cycler but it doesn't have the code.

CDR210

from '98 Boxster WP0CA2987WU624586.

s/n on side of unit : BE2282W5020180

Many thanks!"

Posted the above last week. No response. Did I do something wrong? Wrong format? Pleeeze??? :help:

Every now and then I miss one - sorry.

Try 8608

or

8606

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Loren- Right on target with the first one! Profuse Thanks! What a great service you're performing! :clapping:

Regards,

NC TRACKRAT

"Code request, please. Recent purchase of a '98 C2S but it had an aftermarket radio. As a condition of sale, I told them to get me a radio that came with the car. They got one from a re-cycler but it doesn't have the code.

CDR210

from '98 Boxster WP0CA2987WU624586.

s/n on side of unit : BE2282W5020180

Many thanks!"

Posted the above last week. No response. Did I do something wrong? Wrong format? Pleeeze??? :help:

Code request, please. Recent purchase of a '98 C2S but it had an aftermarket radio. As a condition of sale, I told them to get me a radio that came with the car. They got one from a re-cycler but it doesn't have the code.

CDR210

from '98 Boxster WP0CA2987WU624586.

s/n on side of unit : BE2282W5020180

Many thanks!

To NC TRACKRAT and WVICARY, Thank you for your advice and counsel. learned a lot from your posts and recommedations. The 993 passed the PPI. I bought it and love it. I'll post a picture later. One question... compared to my 996, this car has a surprisingly large turning radius. Is this normal? The car has PSS9s and larger than stock tires (w/offset wheels). Not sure this could make a difference. Haven't heard any rubbing or other unusual noises when making a tight turn. Thanks!

Congratulations! The offset and larger tires, combined w/PSS9 could most definitely affect turning radius but, unless you know it's been done recently and correctly, I would make sure that the car is properly aligned and that, with the PSS9, it is properly lowered and corner-balanced. Research to find the best possible P-Car race/enthusiast shop with the right equipment and expertise to do the above. It's going to run you $350 to $500 depending on shop rate but will be well worth it.

I am considering purchasing a 1995 993. Considering that Porsche usually makes improvements each year in a specific model run, I am concerned about owning the first year of the 993. I am looking for guidance as to what improvements I may be forgoing (or worse, which problems I may be inheriting) by purchasing a 1995 vs. a '96 or '97? This particular example is a C2 (50K miles) with manual transmission and bolt on modifications such as short shift kit, mufflers, ECU and PSS9. It's beautiful and appears to have been very well cared for. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

If you pass on it, can I have the contact info.? Seriously, the '95 is considered to be the BEST year by many. Sure, it's not the widebody and yes, it's down a few hp because of no VARIORAM but it's pure Porsche. No OBDII, just OBD I, and hopefully, it's too early and may not have the dreaded IMMOBILIZER. In addition, depending on the VIN, it may not have SAI (Secondary Air Injection). Just get a good PPI. If it passes, buy it and enjoy it!

Thanks for the input. I was not aware that the 95 had OBD I (I thought they went to OBD II with the changeover from 964). I've heard that this is a good thing, but I've never known why. Forgive my ignorance... can you fill me in on the immobilizer and SAI? Trying to learn as much as possible.

The IMMOBILIZER is the ANTI-Theft device from Hell, designed by some demented German electrical engineer with an unhappy childhood. In addition to keeping thieves out, it can turn on the owner like a woman with PMS! Early U.S. 993's only had a basic alarm system with driveblock, not the dreaded IMMOBILIZER. If this car just has a simple key with no remote keypad, then it doesn't have the IMMOBILIZER. SAI is Secondary Air Injection, basically an air pump to inject air into the exhaust ports. On an OBDI car, it's really along for the ride and UNNECESSARY. On '96 up, it's an integral part of OBDII and if it clogs up, you fail inspection. Early '95 U.S. cars didn't have SAI. IMHO, simpler is better. The less do-dads on a car the less problems. Early '95's are that kind of Porsche. As I said B4, if you don't buy it, I'd like to have a shot at it. My '95 would love the company and my wife would love to have one for herself.

I am considering purchasing a 1995 993. Considering that Porsche usually makes improvements each year in a specific model run, I am concerned about owning the first year of the 993. I am looking for guidance as to what improvements I may be forgoing (or worse, which problems I may be inheriting) by purchasing a 1995 vs. a '96 or '97? This particular example is a C2 (50K miles) with manual transmission and bolt on modifications such as short shift kit, mufflers, ECU and PSS9. It's beautiful and appears to have been very well cared for. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

If you pass on it, can I have the contact info.? Seriously, the '95 is considered to be the BEST year by many. Sure, it's not the widebody and yes, it's down a few hp because of no VARIORAM but it's pure Porsche. No OBDII, just OBD I, and hopefully, it's too early and may not have the dreaded IMMOBILIZER. In addition, depending on the VIN, it may not have SAI (Secondary Air Injection). Just get a good PPI. If it passes, buy it and enjoy it!

My wife and I are considering buying a Porsche 993 and I have been reading a lot on the forums recently. I have gathered that these engines have two issues that I should be aware of-worn valve guides and issues with the SAI. I have some questions about both.

1. Worn valve guides: I know that I need to get a PPI before purchasing a car. Is there a way to tell how worn the valve guides are with a PPI? Will a compression test or leak down test give me an idea? Do these engines normally need a rebuild due to this issue at 50k miles, 70k miles, 90k miles? Can you generalize this way?

2. SAI: I live in SC where we do not have emissions testing. :D From what I understand, the 95 model does not throw a CEL if the SAI system becomes blocked. If this situation is not corrected, does it cause any engine damage? Is there any engine damage with the 96-98 models if the SAI system is clogged and engine not rebuilt? How difficult is it to keep this area clean with regular maintenance? I know there will be an annoying CEL.

Thanks for the any input, and sorry if I am not 100% clear on my understanding. I am still learning.

Joe

Joe-

As a relatively new owner of both a '95 Carrera and a '98 Carrera S, I can fully understand your concerns and share them. There will be others more knowledgeable on the forum who may offer us both some sage advice but as for a compression/leak-down test, I envision that to be a very tedious, labor intensive job, especially on the right bank of plugs. I wonder how anyone can get a good reading on compression or leak-down when it should be taken on a warm engine. As for the SAI, you may be interested in learning that very early '95 U.S. Carreras did not have SAI. I was fortunate to find and purchase a nice, low-mileage example. Let's see what others have to say.

Regards, Stan (in NC)

I've got a 97' cab that could use some interior work. It sat in the sun alittle too long could use some updating. Does anyone have any idea where I could find interior parts for this car in gray leather.

Before you go out and buy stuff, check out Leatherique. They can supply you with their Rejuvenator Oil and color-matched dye that won't rub off. Unless you have warped pieces, I'd try their excellent products.