Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

k-vic

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Wheel Aligned many makes and models

k-vic's Achievements

Member

Member (1/1)

0

Reputation

  1. Would like to see the spec sheet but need the bumpsteer reading also
  2. I found your post interesting and like to make my point. It’s been mention that there is negative camber but the tire wears on the inside so I don’t see camber as the problem. (I read somewhere the other day that camber can be thought of as a taking turns and bringing your banking with you. There are some weaknesses in that analogy, but it's got some charms too.) This comment intrigues me. I believe Camber should be set to maximum the footprint width on maximum load conditions for best traction while providing the correct toe to minimize friction. This comment has a lot more analogy than weakness. But at this point we are talking about why tires wear on the inside. Tire pressures can cause problems when low because the sidewall can collapse but with high tire pressure the tire is supported. I have a problem believing that tire pressure can force a steel belt to buckled. One reason I believe for center tire wear is the tire construction and can easily been seen by bring your eyesight level down to the footprint and looking for air gaps between the road surface and footprint. You should see the tire centre sits higher and the main friction area for tire wear. Your banking method is great and would love further discussion maybe the correct cambers for banking?
  3. Vehicle manufacturers don’t make tires and normally recommend the minimum tire pressures for a vehicle. The tire manufactures gives you the maximum tire pressure for a tire and sometimes you can see the recommended maximum pressure on the side wall. Tire pressure is about the amount of air needed to keep the sidewall from collapsing on turns. Check out the load tire on a car turning. As far as the recommended tire pressure I go for 2/3 the maximum allowed for safety when driving hard and slow and to provided good driver feel and handling and for optimum tire wear .
  4. Sounds like the tires to me. If the cupping is on the edges inside or out then the tire side walls are not holding up under harsh driving and may need more pressure or just slow down on corners. If you run your hands over the cupping and you can feel it in one direction but not in the opposite direction then this is call feathering. If it was suspension or wheel alignment then how are all the wheel affected the same But poor quality tires do the same
  5. Most cars are built without the ability to make changes to the wheel alignment. But you have mention the one thing that will check your wheel alignment problems and that’s bumpsteer.
  6. The factory option shows that a spacer is bolted to the hub, then the wheels are bolted to the spacer with stock lug nuts. You can also buy aftermarket up to 25mm. Don't like spacers but if you are going to use them check the most important thing of all. The wheel thread must turn a minimum of 10 turns depending on the pitch before tightening . This means that you must make sure there is enough thread holding the wheel
  7. k-vic I have been in the wheel alignment industry for years and have come across your problem many times. Steering can feel different after new tires are fitted as the old tires are stiff, new tires will make the steering wheel feel lighter but this should get better over 5000km. The problem with the wheel alignment pulling is most likely caused by the wheel alignment set poorly. When a vehicle is new the manufactures wheel alignment specification may work fine but over time the geometry design changes. This means that the suspension changes shape and the wheel alignment settings need to change to optimize the wheel alignment balance. The wheel alignment industry just make changes to the wheel alignment back to the vehicle manufacture settings. But for your tires to wear poorly on the inside means that there is a change to the geometry design and the wheel alignment settings need to change with the change in geometry design for corrected driver feel and tire wear. The old tires drove straight because they wore on the inside and track your vehicle straight but with flat tires your get a different feel.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.