Dougman

I am dealing with this exact issue on my new 997. But I'm not sure what "basculante" means. When I get under the clutch pedal and move it back and forth, it makes a "click" which can be felt through the pedal, and it happens right when the spring goes over-center. I will try grease, but what do you mean by "basculante"? Thanks in advance.

I "desnorked" my '97 and after about a week put it back in. I did believe I lost a bit of low-end torque. However, I do not believe it has anything to do with intake air temperature. I believe it has to do with harmonics and resonance of the intake track. Just like in a Trombone, when the tube length changes, so does the natural frequency of the air column that resonates in it. This resonance can be used to benefit engine power. The longer effective intake track length can be used to create the minimum pressure drop in the intake at a particular engine RPM. If you want to see this practice taken to an extreme, look at the Helmholz resonator that is fitted to Buell bikes (at least it used to be, don't know if Erik still does this). Dougman

I've spent a fair amount of time and have come up with my own solution to this same problem. My top also "popped" loudly at the end of the close cycle. Often on one side only, with the resulting mis-timing left to right as an outcome. Not much change to timing if it happens once, but over time, the tonneau cover definitely starts to warp L-to-R. In my opinion, after getting to understand how this system works, the problem is that we are running out of gears before the top cycle is complete. If the sprung struts (the black ones that move the tonneau cover) were just a bit shorter, I think this would be the ideal solution: the switch above the motor would be actuated earlier, and the closing cycle would be complete while the worm gear in the transmission was still in contact with the gear. There is so much adjustment in the top struts that I don't see any problem with keeping the top and tonneau coordinated even with this approach. In the meantime, I took AlienZ advice and grafted a spring onto the top of the motor switch, so the tonneau cover actuates the switch earlier. It does need to be a spring because once the tonneau is closed this is compressed. I also found a small block of foam works too; I velcro-d it onto the tonneau. In my case the spring sticks up about an inch and a half higher. The only downside is there is a bit more rattle when the top is down from the tonneau--the struts are not as compressed, so this makes sense (hence my other conclusion about short struts). I am going to order some used tonneau struts from Silver Star Recycling (great place), and cut and weld them a hair shorter. I'm confident this is going to be the best fix; I'll let you know after I try it.