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I paid for 12 hours labor. The manual I belive says 18 hrs labor. Replace the RMS also preventatively, and you might need accumulator if your clutch travel isn't smooth. They may need to drain your coolant also, so expect to pay for that. I found at 70k miles my front drive shaft rubber was also cracked and I replaced that.
Hello, I've seen a few posts on alternators here - same issue as fastboydave, charging in the wet occasionally proves a problem and on a test the loaded alternator isn't charging as effectively as it could be (I have 80k miles on my TT). Are the alternators used in the 986/996 cars all the same model, i.e. 1680 watts or so, with the only differentiator being manual vs. tiptronic? I guess the answer is in comparing the part numbers for manual transmission cars, early and late 986 & 996 vs 996TT alternator part numbers. Thanks for any help that can be provided! Jon
I have the opportunity to buy a good pair of 295/30/19. The rims are 19x10. I cannot find any info on whether these will fit and the tire stores are closed. Yes, these tires will fit and are closer to the OE diameter so probably better than the 305/19s which were a bit too tall despite being an OE Porsche size for the 997 cars. The turbo twists are 11" wide so you should have substantial extra tire to prevent against curbing!
Richard, I did not "code" or "unlock" anything - the local mechanic I used just simply tried to reset the SRS light after we connected up the new module. We were attempting to use durametric software to perform this reset. The codes were similar before the change-out of the module and after; the SRS light refused to reset in any situation, with the old central module or the new one. Is what you're saying that one can't reprogram the SRS system on a 1995 911 (993) without a Bosch Hammer? (PS - my local dealer refused to work on the car, "it's too old." [the OBD1 thing scared them off, I think.]
I have a 1995 911 that's had its SRS light come on for more than a year now. It came on, I believe, at a track event in 2006 (or maybe late 2005), and at the end of 2006 I had the system diagnosed, both with Durametric sofware and even an original Bosch hammer, I believe. The recommendation, as there were tons of faults, was to replace the central control unit, under the passenger side dash. Well, I've done that, but no change in error status (and, as before, resetting the light will not work). For fun, I also re-soldered the connections on the back of my clock (a 964 trick) and that had no effect. It's clear now that this will be a real PITA to fix (I pasted codes, etc. below) so I'm hoping I can get a copy of the wiring diagrams for this car, and step-by-step go through and check the grounds and connectors, with the hope that I just find some frayed wiring or disconnected ground... rather than throwing more expensive, un-returnable electrical parts at the problem... Thanks for any help you can provide. Jon Codes read: > > > 17 Crash sensor left side contact resistance vs battery voltage > > > 0 internal fault code > > > 144 internal fault code > > > 0 internal fault code > > > 251 internal fault code > > > 128 internal fault code > > > 4 Firing circuit driver > > > 225 internal fault code > > > 43 Ignition Pill Circuit 1 contact resistance vs ground > > > 1 Warning Light for Airbag
Could cracked ignition coils cause this sort of issue? I have an 01 with 72k on it and I experience this "hesitation" around 1800-2000 RPM. Not helpful to look good pulling away from a stop!