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About tcouture

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 VW Passat Wagon TDI
  • Future cars
    997 GT3
  • Former cars
    2002 996 Carrera Coupe
  1. Yes. I would go with the 09. - More HP - An 09 C2 is essentially equivalent to a 05-08 C2S - Better fuel consumption because of DFI - Leftover warranty - LED tail lights / headlights - Better resale value - No IMS to worry about So far so good. I have an early build 2009 C2S and it burns less oil than my 996 did. The soot thing lasted for the first 5K miles but now is perfectly fine. They changed my HPFP on the recall during my last visit but it did not cost me anything. On the DFI engine, there was some talk about valves gunking but so far it is unsubstantiated - and I'll take that ove the IMS issue any day. But both cars are great cars. Just my 0.02, T.
  2. That is a good suggestion wvicary, I never tought about using adhesives. That being said, from your answer, I am not sure which part you would suggest bonding... So would you: 1. Try bonding studs back to the body? 2. Bond the underbody (plastic) panels together? 3. Bond the underbody (plastic) panels to the car? I was thinking more along the lines of #1 so I can easily remove the panels when needed... But I am not sure epoxy would be strong enough to glue two pieces of metal together. The other problem is sourcing the studs. I will probably have to fabricate them from something I find in a hardware store. T.
  3. As we all know, there is a collection of plastic panels under the car that hides the innards from debris and make the car more aerodynamic. If you look under the car, these panels are held by a bunch of screws and clips or, for some of them, some coarse studs that are welded to the chassis and nylock nuts (nylon locking). Here is my problem: I have lost one of these studs. It just isn't there and, looking at where is should be, it looks like it was not welded properly (there is paint on half of where the paint should be, probably indicating that the weld was not sticking properly. My question is this: how do I replace this stud/screw/whatever you call it? I can probably hold the panels with some self tap screws but I would rather go back to what it *should* be... Can it be soldered back? Any suggestion will be appreciated, T.
  4. +1 for Rejex on the rims. I have also heard good things about Pagid 4-2-1. I run RS29 on the track and you definitively do not want to use those on the street, they squeal like hell. T.
  5. OP, I live in Montreal and I have a lowered car. It is not that bad... I do as many PCA DE evens as I can so the suspension is a no brainer for me. You have three options, in decreasing order of cost/complexity: 1. Buy and install all the bits and pieces required to change your configuration to Sport PASM (the factory option). You will need dampers, sway bars, control modules, and a bunch more stuff... Plus the LSD if you really want to make it the same as the OE option. I looked into this and it was VERY expensive. The only real benefit being that you would keep the car completely OE. That being said, if you track the car, people will tell you that the factory LSD is not that good and the factory Sport dampers are not really adjustable. So, from a performance perspective, you are better off with the next option. 2. Buy and install Bilstein PSS10 Damptronic coilovers that are compatible with PASM and a Guard LSD. A lot of folks say that this setup rocks. 3. Buy and install other coilovers and disable PASM completely. If you are a hard core track junkie, this muhjt be the best option if you go with JRZ, MOton, or Ohlins. These are not PASM compatible but that are track proven options. 4. Just buy springs like Eibach or Techart and lower the car about 3/4 of an inch, and keep PASM functionnality... You just end up with Sport and Supersport instead of Normal and Sport... I did option #4, it was the cheapest, although I have read some risks that you can blow dampers that way. If that happens, it will just give me a good reason to go to option #2. But you did not really say WHY you wanted to change your suspension setup so it is hard to recommend one over the other... Hope this helps, T.
  6. I'm with you on that one... I think it is just an oversight in the manual since the 997/987 manual do have this section about bleeding, just not the 997.2. BTW, the option to actuate the pumps is there for the Durametric tool for a 997-2 with SW 6 Beta. I am starting to think that this will make for an interesting DYI document once I have all the nooks and crannies figured out... The good news is that the dealer is 1/2 mile away if I completely mess it up :). Cheers, T.
  7. Thanks Loren. Going under is my next move but won't be able to get to it before the weekend. I is still below freezing up here so jacking up the car outside is not something I am looking forward to at this juncture, hopefully it will warm up. I will report back with the results. Also, it looks like I was editing my post while you answered, did you see the ABS bleeding comment regarding the changes in the WM? weird. Regards, T.
  8. Thanks Loren. This is a good one... As you indicated, I am making this more complicated because I need to flush all the brake fluid to replace it with a different type - I really need to take all of it out... I am looking at PET 997-2 illustration 301-05 from which I believe you got your diagram, and it looks like pos #1, the "clutch operating cylinder" can also be referenced in illustration 702-08 as pos #22 (see attached). This is where it gets a little bit more complicated... On that page, you will clearly see that there is a return line (pos #23) connecting to the top position, after the bleeder valve. I probably also need to flush that return line. Looking at WM 300107 "Bleeding the clutch system - as of model year 2009" they seem to be using a special tool (#9781) that couples to the return line - essentially adding a bleeder to the line so it can be bled before reattaching it to the clutch slave cylinder. Because I do not have the tool, I will try to track it down but since this is a one time thing, I am wondering how I could accomplish this without it... Since the slave cylinder is below the fluid reservoir, I can probably just fill it up and let gravity flush the line for me - but a cleaner solution would probaby be better :) Any toughts are welcome. Thanks, T. P.S: Also note that there is no reference to the ABS system in the 997-2 document WM 470855 "Replacing brake fluid" while it is there in the 997 section in WM 470107 "Bleeding the brake system"... 470107 is not listed when I do a search based on 997-2 vehicle type. Would that mean that the procedure changed and that ABS flushing is not required anymore? I am new to the Porsche WM and it is all a little cryptic.
  9. I want to replace the OE fluid with Motul RBF600. I use a motive pressure bleeder if it makes any difference. I have a couple of questions regarding the procedure: 1. How do you flush the the clutch slave cylinder? I had a 996 before and there was a bleed nipple on the transmission housing neer the clutch. Looks like that is gone on the 997.2 and there is a return line attached where the bleeder used to be (looking at PET)... (should be in doc od 47085500) 2. I read somewhere that you do not need to actuate the ABS pump on the 997.2 to flush the brake fluid like we used to before, is that true? I have a durametric but, if it is not needed due to a new design, it just makes things easier... (should be in doc id 300107) I was trying to get the docs from PIWIS-TIS but they do not want my money at the moment - I get a "the payment provider is down" message. Any help is appreciated, T.
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