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kbrandsma

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Everything posted by kbrandsma

  1. I would check in the following order. 1. Spark plug tubes leaking 2. Bellows (accordian hose/ tube) on bottom of AOS (more on passenger side though) 3. RMS (most likely), especially if it appears to me a nosebleed dead center where the engine flywheel/clutch meets the bell housing of the transmission 4. IMS (same as 3# above) but more serious. The car is usually undriveable. You probably won't be able to determine #3 or #4 until you remove the transmission. Great time to also replace clutch ad tranmission oil. Here is a DIY if interested. PRESS HERE
  2. Durametric will reset airbag light.
  3. Seatbelt Airbag Light I have had an Airbag Light for the last 8 months. I tried all the poor man's remedies like an electrical spray and then drying it with canned air. It worked for a while until I realized that the light will reappear after I had passenger actually use the belt. When I ran the codes using my Durametric Tool I got Fault code 48 which indicated a Passenger Side Seat Belt Problem. The previous owner had the driver's side completed in 2006. Below is a screenshot of the fault code I received: Author kbrandsma Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/14/2011 12:03 AM Updated 02/24/2011 07:52 AM
  4. I have had an Airbag Light for the last 8 months. I tried all the poor man's remedies like an electrical spray and then drying it with canned air. It worked for a while until I realized that the light will reappear after I had passenger actually use the belt. When I ran the codes using my Durametric Tool I got Fault code 48 which indicated a Passenger Side Seat Belt Problem. The previous owner had the driver's side completed in 2006. Below is a screenshot of the fault code I received: Depending on year of the car, fault Codes 45, 46, 48 and 49 refer to a selt belt problem on either the driver's side (45 or 46) or the passenger's side (48 or 49.) The Technical Service Bulletin is TSB 6924. This Bulletin replaces an earlier one dated 10-8-99. Being a donating member on this Board gives you access to this TSB Bulletin and all other TSB Bulletins. Both the passenger and driver's side's DIY are pretty much identical with a few differences as noted later on in this posting. The TSB is a little awkward to read and understand. I hope this write-up helps to understand it.. First, remove the key from the ignition and disconnect the negative side of the battery. A key in the ignition activates the airbags. So removing the key is good practice. Then in my case, remove the passenger side seat by loosening the four (4) bolts connecting the seat to the floor. You'll need a 10mm socket or an E12 to remove the seat. Both sockets will work. The E12 is a female torx like socket. When removing the seat, it is recommended that you have the top down and cover the door threshold with a towel or blanket. The seat is awkward to remove and the paint can be easily scratched. Next, release the backrest of the seat and swing the backrest forward and down, then tip the seat towards the engine (back and all) to gain access under the seat to release the electrical harness. Below are two (2) photos. The first is a photo of the harness. It is still connected and the second photo is taken with the seat removed from the vehicle after the harness has been separated. The second photo also shows the location of the harness lock. The harness lock must be pulled out to separate the harness into two (2) parts. The TSB refers to the vehicle side (of the harness) and the seat side (of the harness.) When the harness is seperated the vehicle side (of the harness) stays with the vehicle and the seat side(of the harness) stays with seat. With the harness separated and the seat removed you basically are doing three things: In the car (vehicle side) Step I and Step II Step I. Replacing 2 pins (4 pins on the driver's side) and their attached wires on the vehicle side plug. Regardless of which seat you are working on the kit provides four (4) wires. The old wires contain more tin in the fittings and the tin eventually causes connectivety problems and thus the seatbelt light comes on. The new pins contain more gold and less tin. Step II. Replacing the ground wiring harnesses with a new ground wire provided in the kit. The new ground has a prefitted round lug that connects under the bolt to the appropiate grounding point. Outside the car on the removed seat (seat side) Step III Installing a new seat belt buckle receptacle and it's attached wires. The wires from the new buckle receptacle end in a green plug (it goes under the seat and snaps into the seat side of the harness.) The green receptacle can be seen in the photo above. It is exactly the same of the driver's side except on the driver's side the receptacle ends in a blue plug and not a green one. The diagram below is the electric wiring schematic provided by Porsche. You are working on Connector X16 (driver's side and X17 (passenger side.) Step I Unravel or unwrap the black banding on the vehicle side. Save the banding to re-use it for reassembly. You will need to further disassemble the vehicle side plug. The TSB explains this very well. Passenger's side ( X17) has two pins(2) for sockets B7 and B8. The driver's side (X16) have four pins with wires and are for sockets B5, B6, B7 and B8. Work on the wires one at a time to make sure they get connected correctly. Here is a photo of the passenger vehicle side sockets B7 and B8. If you click on the picture it will expand and you can actually read which is #7 and which is #8. The wire colors are brown/blue and brown respectfully. To remove the old pin depress the raised portion of the pin (thru the opening shown below) with your press out tool and pull out the old pin out by the wire. Install the new pin and wire and using the old wire you can chase it along to determine where to cut. When you cut the old existing wire leave 50mm or 2 inches long on the replacement wire for connecting, crimping, soldering and applying the heat shrinking rubber sleeves supplied with the kit.. Strip both wires to 1/2 inch. Twist the wires together, crimp the wires with the supplied ferrule supplied in kit with crimping pliers. You can see that they are twisted togther before applying the ferrule and then crimp the ferrule. The tool shown in the photo below is not a set of crimping pliers but rather a soldering clamp . Once crimped with the ferrule, solder the ends of the exposed copper wires and then cover with heat shrink tubing. The photo below shows closing the end of the heat shrink tube with heater gun. Repeat for all remaining replacement pins. Again replace one wire at a time to make sure they get connected correctly. Then you can reassemble the wiring with banding and use additional electrical tape if needed. The kit also contains cinch ties or tie-wraps. The TSB shows where to place these. The TSB cautions that the airbag light will re-appear if the wires are not sufficiently banded. Step II You are now ready to work on the ground leads. You can see the old ground lead attached to ground point 6 in the photo above. Begin by unwrap[ing the existing ground banding all the way back to where the factory spliced is located. Unbolt the old cable lug from grounding point 6 (GP6) on the passenger side or grounding point 7 (GP7) on the driver's side to replace it with the new one(s) provided in kit. Cut, strip, clamp and solder all wires together. Again leave 2 inches extra for clamping and soldering. You can have up to four wires (plus the new ground with the new lug connector) depending on the seat options that came with your vehicle. Below is the factory splice before I cut them. I also had the ground adapter for a children's seat. The TSB provides directions for dealing with this. Step III. Replace the old buckle on the seat with the new one and route the cable lead to the seat side of the harness and install. This is the wire that has a tail or plug on the passenger side that is green in color (photo above.) Driver's side is blue. You will need to slide off the end of the seat side portion of the harness to remove the old green (or blue) plug. Make sure seat side of harness is securely installed in the track under seat and cinch ties are correctly installed per the TSB. Reinstall the seat in the vehicle, connect the harness, tighten seat, connect battery and reset the Airbag Light with a Durametric or PWIS/PST2 Tool from an Indy or Dealer. Contrary to what some think, a disconnected battery will not reset the airbag light. Parts numbers for this DIY and prices from Sunset are: 996.803.183.10 - Passenger side Buckle - $52.82 996.803.183.09 - Driver's Side Buckle - Not sure because I did not replace this part 000-043-206-06 - Harness Kit - $46.27 (2 needed, one per side) Good Luck! :D
  5. The starter fluid works on vacuum hoses and connections before the fuel intake manifold (pre-spark plug.) It is not advisable to spray fuel or oil caps or dipstick tube as nothing should happen.
  6. It looks like what you call your heater panel also includes a built-in trim piece. It may still fit in lower compartment.
  7. It sounds like the only thing you haven't done is check the oil dipstick tube and replace the gas and oil cap. The oil dip stick tube sometimes can develop a crack and be tough to pinpoint.
  8. The connection Paul Speed was referring to is the harness under the passenger seat that needs to be disconnected each time a seat is removed. Did you have the dealer reset the airbag light? Did they tell you what the fault code was?
  9. I have an extra one. If interested send me a PM.
  10. +1 for "Simple Green"
  11. The Airlift tool by UView works great!
  12. I also have a 98 - 5 speed. Have you been able to see if there are any fault code(s)? Also put your key in and turn but don't start or turnover the engine to determine if all your gauge warning indicator lights are all working. Including the red lights by 250 mark of your temperature gauge and the 0 mark of your fuel gauge. Your top light (lower far right) and the two red temperature and fuel gauges automatically go out shortly after the key is turned on. I am curious why your temperature is running high? It definately sounds like a sensor going bad. You probably saw this link. HERE it is just in case you haven't. :welcome: to Renntech!
  13. Here is a good system analysis and excellent write-up from Mike Focke's web page. Link HERE
  14. During the winter of 2007-2008 I replaced my RMS and clutch and while I had my exhaust off I thought I would also replace my O2 Sensors. I made the mistake of replacing them with 4 Walker O2 sensors (with original fitment) and had nothing but problems with them. Since then on occasion I would get a CEL and after 4 to 5 drive cycles the CEL would eventually disappear. I would check with the Durametric and the codes where always P1117 and P1121 with P1115 and P1119 Pending. Several weeks ago, I received a notice to renew my license which also meant I would have to pass emissions testing. I have owned my Boxster since July 2007 and it has 104K miles on it. The CEL light was on so I checked the codes, I was surprised to find so many. They were P0410, P0411, P1125, P1123, P1117, P1121, P1115, P1119, P1130 and P1128. :eek: A couple of weekends ago, I took some time and tried to systematically determine the problems. I ordered a change over valve from Sunset Porsche and a gas cap (I figured I could return the valve if it was not needed) and began to work. I replaced the gas cap. I noticed that the Secondary Air Pump was not working and checked the fuse. The 40 AMP fuse is located in the rear trunk underneath the relay bank on the driver's side. The fuse was burnt out and I replaced from Autozone for a couple of bucks. I disconnected the battery, opened up the engine bay, removed the passenger side seat and front engine compartment and removed the change over valve by accessing it behind the alternator and under the passenger side fuel intake manifold. I have heard from some that accessing the change over valve from the top is the way to go by removing the fuel intake manifold. I chose not to as I also needed to replace my serpentine belt. A picture of my old valve is below. Based on what I found I determined it needed to be replaced. I connected the battery, started it up and checked all the vacuum hoses by tightening them. I used starting fluid to systematically check for vacuum leaks at every connection. No leaks found. I closed everything up, took it for a ride then reset the codes. The CEL light returned. I commute 120 miles everyday and decided to drive a few drive cycles before continuing. The next time I ran the codes the following where found. P1123 and P1125 where the only ones that had gone. I assumed P1602 came from disconnecting the battery. A couple days later I replaced the front O2 Sensors with my orginal ones that I removed several years earlier. Again I reset the codes and drove several drive cycles. This time I was down to only 4 codes P1128 and P1130, P1117 and P1121 as shown below: I then replaced the rear O2 Sensors with my original rear ones and again erased the codes. After a couple of drive cycles I got the following two codes. I then ordered a Air Mass Sensor from Autohaus for $182.57 shipped which seemed to be the best price out there. Porsche Part Number for MY98 996.606.123.00 and Bosch Part Number 0-280-217-007 With 104K on the clock I figured it was a safe bet that the Air Mass Sensor was due to be replaced. The following weekend and with no codes I passed emissions! Parts ordered from Sunset: Cross Over Valve - 993.113.245.01 - $74.80 Fuel Cap - 996-201-241-03 - $9.61 YEAH! :jump:
  15. Ignition Switch DIY is HERE I replaced my entire unit (barrel and all) about 6 months ago. You might want to search ignition switch on both 986 and 996 Forums (should be the same) to determine similar symptoms to yours!
  16. I was interested in the miles to determine if ignition switch is a consideration. Good luck and keep us updated.
  17. You could pop the radio out and check where the installer grabbed the power from. I doubt it came from the ignition switch. I've had fade and balance issues on my radio until I installed a new switch. How many miles on the car? Has the switch ever been changed. A faulty ignition switch is very common. You could also check the battery. Check the battery before starting (should be under 12 V) and again after starting (14.4+ volts).
  18. Thanks -- where did that rule come from? Yes, taken right from the manual: 1. Don't let vehicle idle to warm up 2. Be prepared to drive right away 3. Drive at moderate speeds for 5 minutes 4. Stay below 4200 RPM
  19. Not advised to warm up a car at idle. The rule is to not exceed 4K RPM until the engine is at operating temperature. Speed not a determining factor, RPM's are.
  20. Do you have any other unexplainable electrical issues. Sometimes a bad ignition switch causes other gremblins.
  21. I was just preparing a DIY regarding some codes including P0410 and P0411. I had a blown 40 amp fuse for the Secondary Air Pump. I removed the change over valve and upon examination replaced it. The CEL light is now gone. Do you have any other symptoms or codes?
  22. It is always advisable to have a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) done by a reliable Indy or reliable dealer. The PPI will help determine any deficiencies including damage to the undercarriage. Rust usually isn't a problem. Check out Mike Focke's website Here. It is an excellent resource. Read both sections, Part 1 and Part 2. I drive my Boxster over 120 miles a day as my daily driver, regardless of rain, snow and especially sunshine.
  23. I have heard that cranking the engine over without starting to get oil in piston, valves and other key areas. I've also heard of pushing a car in reverse but only after garaged over the winter. Four years may require additional considerations.
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