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cab713

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About cab713

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  • Website URL
    http://www.doubledome.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Atlanta, GA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 Carrera C2 (996) Coupe
  • Future cars
    2006 Carrera S (997) Coupe
  • Former cars
    1974 BMW 2002
    1976 BMW 2002
    1980 Saab 900 Turbo
    1995 325i
    1998 328is

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  1. One of my best friends since elementary school just left for a 3 week trip out of the country, and I've finally gotten the chance to clean up his 944. The paint is a bit flat, the interior needs a good cleaning, and there are several odds and ends that need attention. Looking for some direction on where to source the parts (used is acceptible). rear view mirror - mount is on window, but metal arm that fit into in is broken. it's been epoxied before so a replacement is in order steering wheel - wrap at the top of the 3 spoke has come undone. is it better to have it repaired or replaced? know anyone in atlanta, ga to repair? rough idle - really rough idle at start when cold. smooths out after a few minutes. warm start idle is still rough for a few minutes, but not as rough as cold start. (never goes away completely) any advice and guidance is greatly appreciated!
  2. I've just discovered a very small coolant leak at the bottom of the engine just below what I believe is the pulley for the water pump. When parked it leaves about a dime size puddle on the ground after a night. When I check it, there is never more than a single drop hanging from the bolt just below the pulley at the lowest point. Any ideas as to what the problem/solution would be? I did just have the serpentine belt changed a short while ago. 1999 996 C2 with 36,000 miles
  3. I've searched for AOS issues. The replacement DIY seems to show oil in the upper intakes that may be similar, but I have no white smoke at start or rough idle. I'll start with the intake plenums as that is the only place I can see grime right now. The oil filler tube seems to be totally clean from what I can see. I'll confirm while getting after the intake plenums. Thanks!
  4. Does anyone know what is causing the oily grime on the hose clamps just behind the throttle body on my 99 996 C2? It's on both sides nearest the boot but not any farther back. There is much more on the drivers side. My neighbor does have a spec of this on the drive side clamp of his 99 996 C2, but no where near as much as mine. This photo was shot looking over the oil filler hose and dip stick.
  5. Can anyone confirm that the 02-05 PSE mufflers will fit a 99 996 C2? They would be coming from an 03 996 C2. Part Number PSE (Porsche Sport Exhaust) mufflers #996-111-131-71 and #996-111-132-71 Thanks,
  6. It's been a few months since discovery and the leak is very minor. Is there a DIY for the cam solenoid seals? Perhaps with a part number? I've done some searches, but no luck.
  7. I've not resolved the issue. The car goes in this week for a clutch issue and while there, I'll have them troubleshoot.
  8. Hi All, I've been doing some searches regarding the handling of my 99 C2 Coupe with 35,000 miles. I've owned it for 6+ years now, and I'm aware that our cars do tend to feel "floaty" when running highway speeds. While I've grown accustom to this feeling, I believe I have an actual issue that could/should be resolved. I'm not getting the response from the steering wheel that I feel I should. When traveling on the highway at any speed the steering is a bit loose. I can wiggle the wheel left to right a bit and there's no significant response from the car. Don't get me wrong, if I turn the wheel with what I'd consider normal effort, I get the correct response. The car also handles corners well and the input feels correct and tracks true. What I'm wondering is if there is something worn, or something I can modify to get a "on rails" feel. I owned a BMW 325i with suspension upgraded by the prior owner. That car would change direction if you sneezed with your hand on the steering wheel. I'd like to get that feel out of this one. I have US spec suspension. I cannot lower the ride height based on my driveway clearance. I also do a good deal of city driving on terrible roads and a firmer ride is not what I'm looking for. Just simply to improve the responds of the steering to driver input. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
  9. I cleaned and scrubbed the offending area once the oil change was complete. Only a short drive today, but nothing there upon my return. I'll do a longer drive tomorrow and see if anything shows up. I've also found mention of motor mounts loosing oil. I need to find the DIY on that, but in all my searches today, the only leak that almost matches mine perfectly turned out to be the hydraulics for a cabriolet top. Mixed emotions when you're hoping a suggestion is wrong, but turns out to be correct and doesn't help your problem as well.
  10. Thanks! 3. RMS was replace just over a year ago at 30,700 miles with a new clutch. Odometer just turned 35,000 so I hope that's not it. From what I read here, RMS would dead center of the engine. This is the drivers side. You can see it just behind the wheel well. 4. I'll do some searches for IMS, but the car runs perfectly from what I can tell. Smooth and fast with plenty of power. I will also explore 1 & 2. cab
  11. Changed the oil in my 1999 996 C2 yesterday. In jacking up the car, I discovered a good deal of grimy oil caked to the drivers side of the engine. The oil level was a bit low, but there are no drops in the garage bay so I don't know how long it's been like this. Any idea as to what is going on here? Thanks, Chris edit: rotated the images to the proper orientation.
  12. I replaced them with new ones. I followed the directions on pumping the brakes several times for each brake after the new rotor and pads were installed. I also pumped the brakes several times prior to my test drive. Since I put the vibration dampers in prior to the pads, I assumed that they would stick after the first few pumps. I started thinking about this after I got back and posted. Wondered if they needed a bit more encouragement to stick. I went back out just now and pumped them about 6-8 times. Pulled down my driveway stopping several times. Pumped them 7-8 more times prior to my next drive around the block and there is no squeak now. I do have a sound when I apply the brakes that could be the sound of the rotors and pads trying to seat or hydraulics. It's a slight whirring sound that starts midway through slow speed braking (coming to a stop) and stops once I come to a full stop. I check my fluid levels and all is good there. I didn't touch the bleeder valves during the whole process so I don't think there is air in the lines. I have a feeling the sound will go away during the seating 125 miles of driving. I'll post back if/when it does. Thanks Loren!
  13. Just completed front pads and rotors. The DIY and link to bombay digital helped a ton. I just drove the car around the block and have a squeak at low speed that goes away when pressure is applied to the brakes. Any idea as to what I can do?
  14. I was using a screwdriver prior to posting this, but it seemed like I was using more force than would be good for the batwing or switches. You are correct on the for spots that lock the switch into place. I resorted to using a small current tester I had. It has two prongs about double the diameter of toothpicks. I was able to push them down into one side without too much "lift" on the plastic housing. Once they were as far down as possible, I gently pushed on the switch face and that side popped out. I then just repeated on the other side. Thanks for the help.
  15. That's what I'm getting from the description. I don't think the 997 kit is about shortening the throw. I think the focus is on the "feel" of a 997 shift being better than the 996. Since I'm looking to shorten the throw it sounds like the B&M would be the best choice. Any other feedback on the B&M would be welcome.
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