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johan928

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About johan928

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    Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Ocean Springs, MS
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1990 944S2<br>1999 Boxster<br>2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
  • Former cars
    1985.5 944<br>1984 928S<br>1988 928S4<br>1993 928 GTS

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  1. 999.707.215.40 - Red o-ring on tube (larger o-ring) $2.57 each. 999.707.343.40 - Green o-ring on the tube (smaller o-ring) $1.27 each. 996.104.215.54 - Cylinder head cup seal (green caps on ends of cam shafts) 996.111.107.54 - Exhaust manifold gasket 996-111.113.02 - Exhaust gasket 996.105.325.52 - Oil protection tube $3.11 each. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Don't have the individual prices handy for the green caps and exhaust manifold gaskets + exhaust gaskets, but the total price for the 4 green caps, 2 exhaust manifold gaskets, and 2 exhaust gaskets was $24.66. All of the parts were special ordered by the dealer. You'll want to order two o-rings to seal the oil extraction pump covers also, which I did not order as I didn't realize they were there. Dealer should be able to help you with the part number for these. You will also want to order 6 green caps as there is an addtional green cap above the oil extraction pump covers, which I failed to order, so I re-used two of mine. I did not use the silicone gasket sealant that Porsche uses. Instead I used a silicone gasket sealant for sale at the local auto parts store. I did not lower the engine / transmission, as I did not know how. It would be helpful to have the engine lower when doing the re-seal, but it can be done without lowering the engine.
  2. Thank you. Sure felt like more than 18 ft / lbs when removing them, but might be from the heat cycling over the years. John
  3. Can anyone with a shop manual tell me the specified torque values for the exhaust manifolds bolts? Car is a 1999 Boxster and I removed exhaust manifold to re-seal valve cover.
  4. Here are some part numbers for anyone needing to renew the sealant on their valve covers: 999.707.215.40 - Red o-ring on tube (larger o-ring) 999.707.343.40 - Green o-ring on the tube (smaller o-ring) 996.104.215.54 - Cylinder head cup seal (green caps on ends of cam shafts) 996.111.107.54 - Exhaust manifold gasket 996-111.113.02 - Exhaust gasket 996.105.325.52 - Oil protection tube
  5. Best advice I can offer you is to use a pair of circlip pliers to apply force around the outer most edge of the oil protection tube, and try to rotate the tube to loosen the seals up. This worked well for me on 5 of the 6 tubes. I think I let the engine cool down too much (was distracted for a while) and that's why one of the tubes cracked and a piece fell behind the valve cover. Best to do it with engine warm as the tubes are very brittle when cold.
  6. Jeff, Do you know the part number for the cam shaft caps, the exhaust manifold gaskets (to exhaust and to head), and the oil extraction pump gasket?
  7. Thanks Jeff, Just wanted to make sure it was ok to remove the four bolts holding the oil extraction pump in place. So I just remove the four bolts, pull the oil pump out, and remove the two bolts for the solenoid cover, disconnect the solenoid cable, and remove the 23 bolts holding the cam cover in place. There is a flat gasket I believe between the oil extaction pump and then also the two plastic end plugs for the camshaft ends at the other end of the valve cover. With the tightening sequence from Loren I think I am ready to go ahead with the removal when I make it home on the weekend. Was itching to do this over the weekend, but wanted to make sure I wouldn't take the wrong steps. Thank you for all of your help.
  8. Jeff, Could you ask Van about the cover for the oil extraction pump and if any bolts need to come out of this cover? It looks to me like two of the four bolts bolt in to the vavle cover. If possible, could you help with a list of parts needed for the typical valve cover reseal? I have the oil protection tubes and the o-rings for these. Thanks, John
  9. Thank you Loren for the removal / tightening sequence of the valve cover bolts. The valve covers on our 944s2 and the 928S4 I had were also very low torque covers, but they only had 13 bolst in each cover. Does the manual state the variocam solenoid must be removed? I believe it resides in the spot to the right of bolt number 19. Also, when looking at the vavle cover from the front side between bolts 18 and 19 there is a circular plate, with four bolts in it, and then four smaller hex key bolts within a smaller radius circle. Do any of these bolts need to be removed in order for the valve cover to be removed? :help: It looks like two of these bolts go in to the valve cover. Thank you, John
  10. Don't know. Have ordered the black tubes for the new o-rings since I cracked a few of the tubes. I had cleaned valve covers and driven the car for a while. No drops on the ground until yesterday, so I decided to start on the o-rings. Each area of the valve cover under the coil packs was pretty wet, so I don't know that the valve cover really needed replacing. There was a strong burning oil smell after driving the car so I think the oil was just dropping on to the exhaust manifold. I removed the exhaust manifold and examined the valve cover again, and am afraid to go further until I am able to see the factory procedure for removal and installation. I would greatly appreciate any help / suggestions your mechanics might be able to give for doing this.
  11. Loren, Engine was warmed up. Have a problem now. One part of plastic broke and fell behind the valve cover. I was planning only to replace the o-rings but I believe now I must remove the valve cover and re-seal to retrieve the pice from the tube. Can you help me with the correct procedure for removing the valve cover? The bolts look straight forward to me, but I am not certain about the chain and cam area where the variocam is written. I called the mechanic from the dealership where I ordered the parts, but he is 3.5 hours from me, and has never had to remove a valve cover. I don't think there are so many Boxsters running around where they are. He said whenver something goes wrong he simply replaces the engine. He offered to let me look through his manual, but I was hoping to find help on-line before having to make a 3.5 hour drive. John
  12. I think I know why the black plastic finger tubes are replaced along with the rubber o-rings. When I removed the ones from my car, they cracked :angry: so re-using them might not be an option unless you are more skilled than I am when removing them from the engine.
  13. Thanks Jeff, Good to know the cams will not jump out and hit me in the head. Thanks for the tip to drain the oil. Thanks for all of your help. John
  14. Thank you Toolpants, Did Van mention why they do not use the tool to hold the cams in place? Just want to make sure the cams will stay in place and I won't do any damage if I remove a valve cover. Scott, I cleaned both the valve covers w/ degreasers and it looks like a good bit of the leak is from the o-rings on the plastic tubes for the spark plugs. I have ordered a set of o-rings and will replace these first and see if there is a significant leak from the valve cover. There is a now a smell of burning oil coming from the top of the engine, and I have narrowed it down to the area where the oil separator resides. I am not able to see the leak, and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions / recommendations? I had the rear of the car off the ground with passenger rear tire removed and had cleaned off the valve cover to make sure the smell was not from oil dripping on to the exhaust header. :help:
  15. Was the cause for checking the oil separator bellow a burning oil smell when driving the car? My 99 has recently started doing this. How did the separator procedure go. Can you write up a step by step guide? I was looking at mine last night and was curious if there was a recommended way to remove the separator. I am getting a CEL after the car has been driven for a while and it indicates lean condition (air getting in to intake behind the mass air flow sensor). I cannot tell, but I think the rubber accordian hose may have a tear in it. It was wet to the touch, but I could not see oil leaking while I was looking. I undid the J-tube and it had oil in it. Is this normal? I thought it should only return fumes and perhaps a light mist back to the intake. Thanks, John
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