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Bostonduce

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Everything posted by Bostonduce

  1. Water vapor is a natural product of hydrocarbon combustion. The combination of blow-by and piston ring wipe down of the cylinder wall is where you get condensation build up. The whole "not bringing the engine up to temperature" thing is where the water really collects in the sump. As Maurice said, take a little longer trip. If it persists in it's present quantity, change your oil more often. BD
  2. Haven't been able to find Castrol 10W-60 anywhere but BMW dealers and BMW tuners. Shell imports a 10W-60 for Ferrari but again, only seen it at Ferrari dealers, somewhere around $20.00/L. Most guys who do heavy duty track time change oil and brake fluid after every track session. No worries about viscosity breakdown if you do that. Not like you a running straight 30 wt dino oil from the '60's. Stick with the factory viscosity-less risk of a VarioCam burp also. Isn't the trend for pro teams goiing to a super light weight oil to reduce pumping losses? Regards, BD
  3. Rust Buster, it's more an acid with a little oil in it. You can see it disolve rust. Comes in a clear squirt bottle. I've used it to take off muffler clamps. Regards BD
  4. Enter your vehicle info at the Tire Rack web site, and they will post all brands that will fit. Click on the tire and look at the catagory feedback posted. I believe you will forsake any "Porsche official approved" tires (i.e. those with the "N" designation) if you stick with all-season rubber. Regards, BD
  5. I would echo clord's comments. There are two types of overrevs: Type 1 which are those where the rev limit has been activated and type 2 which are the mechanical over revs generated when the gear selected is too low for the given road speed. Type 2 overrevs are also refered as THE MONEY SHIFT. They WILL cause valve train damage, and it may be impossible to detect for many miles after the event which percipitated it. There have been MANY internet threads which talk about PCA denying warranty service when type 2's are present- whether original or certified. You need to see the history of these overrevs which is stored in the car's ECU before you further consider purchase. If the dealer says he doesn't know what you are talking about- RUN! Regards, BD
  6. ANY filter which is oiled, regardless of it's construction risks damage to the MAF. In short order, you will see/feel a fine film of oil deposited on the air intake upstream from the filter. Some of that oil fog will eventually plate out on the MAF wire and play games with the sensed voltage. Soon you will get PSM and ABS lights and your engine will run like a '72 Gremlin. Doesn't make any diference if the filter is red, green, or pink. Neither does it matter if the manufacturer claims some special proprietary oil made with eye-of-newt, or some other unobtanium. You can't repeal the laws of physics-although some marketing guys try. Regards, BD
  7. The jury is out as to what is causing the yellowing, heat/sunlight/UV, or some combination. I have coated my CF trim with a car wax that claims UV protection-there are many out there- with no discoloration in over two years. Even with my success, this was a SWAG on my part-no evidence to support my theory. Not a lot you can do about heat. I have seen a thread about a Carrera GT that had yellowing on the CF that you'd think would never be exposed to much light (lower door trim), and it was turning very yellow. Looked like it was water stained, it was so bad. Regards, BD
  8. I got jack stands with flat top and a rubber cushion. Regards, BD
  9. Get used to it, boxer type engines use more oil than "V" or inline engine layouts. You may need to add several quarts between changes- and it's all perfectly "normal" according to Dr.P. Stick pretty close to the factory recommended viscosity ratings as the oil has more functions than just lubrication (i.e. variocam). Don't use the "more is better" formula either. Late model Porsche's don't like 15W-50 or 10W-60. The most recent factory recomendations are backwards compatible to previous model years. Don't try to stretch your $$ with something as cheap as an oil change (especially if you do it yourself). Regards, BD
  10. Sears sells a reverse spiral socket set that will remove wheel locks. Regards BD
  11. You can see the MB three point star attached to the trany case on the 996tt. Porsche is the KING of outsourced parts. Regards, BD
  12. Any paint will be short-lived due to the extreme heat cycling those components see. Paint just seems to flake off after a while. If you're willing to be married to constant touch-ups, use heat-proof paint that needs to be oven cured, at the very least. The longest lasting solution would be some sort of black chrome or bluing process (electrochemical plating), but you would have to check the compatibility with your base metal (stainless) first. Regards, BD
  13. Porsche is/was offering finance deals on new 997's not too long ago in the Boston area. Not a good indication of market strength. Try a dealer out of your area, sometimes they look at as a "conquest" sale that they are 'stealing'. I got $5k more on a trade last summer (on a BMW however) just for driving over the state border. Regards, BD
  14. Try to find an '05 sales brochure for the turbo S. The same basic engine from 2001 thru 2005. Pretty good detail about the car and engine. Also, get a Porsche parts CD "PET". All exploded diagrams with part numbers and names. Cheap money too. Check your oil level frequently, let your motor idle for about 2 minutes before you shut it down, and watch for tire wear-especially on the inside. Enjoy. Regards BD
  15. Jon; In the 'old days', the German mfgs used a form of talcum powder on the rubber seals. I've tried Honda Shin-Etsu silicone grease and it works better. A little dab will spread forever, it will condition the seal without attacking the rubber. Doesn't dry out like ArmorAll, etc. Get it at a local Honda dealer; about $12.00 for a tube. Regards, BD
  16. Upon closer inspection, it appears that the "seep" is between the left oil pump cover. Does anyone know the torque settings for the oil pump cover bolts? What are my chances of stopping the seep just by re-torqueing the bolts? Thanks BD
  17. Any hints on where to look for a oil leak which is collecting on the gasket to the water pump housing left collection piece? It must be coming from above, but everything above the area seems dry. No cosmoline as it has been removed. I notice about 1-2 0z on floor after a drive. Thanks for any help. Regards BD
  18. ps. on the PSS-9; It is a 'coupe-only' part number also. ar; I agree with all you say, however I've been told that corner balance would take 4-6 hours, excluding alignment, and I've heard of people being charged for 8 hours of labor for a CB and align. Must be the east coast thing. Regards BD
  19. The X73 is listed for the coupe only, that doesn't mean that some haven't used the X73 on the cab anyway. I am familiar with the TT cab (same body and suspension) and have PM's several that have it installed and they report no issues. Many tell me it is actually better than the stock suspension. I also know of one who reinstalled the stock suspension after only a short while ("X73 too hard"), so YMMV. The difference is the cab is only about 250 lbs. heavier than the coupe, but I suspect there may be chassis/engine stiffening issues (the stiffer engine mounts included with the X73 kit make me even more concerned). I'm just not sure how the cab will react long term to the X73. I think all you would gain is about 12-15mm of lowering with the ROW 030 with the same damping rates. The X73 lowers about 25mm, but also has different damping rates, hence its billing as the "factory racing suspension". I'm not totally happy with the stock suspension on the TT, but I haven't answered all my questions concerning fitting the X73 to the cab. I've been told by one of the online OEM parts dealers that there is a cab version of the X73 on the way, but that doesn't make sense to me since the 996 series has been replaced. Most tuners in my area want to install the PSS-9, but I think it may be because they make more $$ for that installation (really needs a corner balance to take maximum advantage of it). If you have any other information, I would love to hear it. Regards BD
  20. You have to be careful with Water Wetter and how it reacts with the newer, long-life coolants. I can tell you from experience that in Ford and Honda long-life coolants, WW forms a black 'sludge' which floats to the the top of the coolant reservoir. The newer 5-year - 'lifetime' coolants do not use the simple chemistry that the older stuff had. Anyway, WW effectiveness diminishes when added to any coolant; it works best with plain water. IMO then, the cure is worse than the disease. Regards, BD
  21. Gert's (Carnewal) pedal's are the "Ruf" pedals without the logo and added 'Ruf $$$'. Rubber dots for wet grip and very heavy guage aluminum. They'll cost you about $400/set with the upside down exchange rate and duties. Regards, BD
  22. Guys, I am not impressed with your surfing ability finding the little things that cost so much, yet mean so little. There's plenty of money to be spent on mundane items such as lug nuts. Open up those wallets and let the moths escape! Cha-bling! http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?...4d55ff8dc6b1d65 PS. Titanium lugs were something to the tune of $400/set and there were issues with galling and breakage. Regards, BD
  23. Here you go courtesy of the S2K website: ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT: DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L) DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ) DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ) DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ) DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ) DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ) ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT: DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF The military is the biggest user of silicone brake fluid, but they have started to process to go back to traditional brake fluid. Don't use it in ABS systems! In your '45 Packard it's fine. Regards BD
  24. Stan; First there is a link on here which shows R&R of the ER barke. It's for a box but the 996 is the same. I believe the brake handle is sold as a unit, not only the part you see (handle), but also the mechanism under the console attached to the brake cables. You can't just disassemble the exposed handle- you have to take the console out and replace the unit. Here's a caveat: My car came with full leather-natural leather, and the bottom of the brake handle base was painted in the standard "black soft-touch paint". Only the hand grip part was leather, and it looked like plastic to me. The bottom line was that most of the exposed handle was painted plastic. I got the carbon brake lever to retrofit. Now this one has the bottom in real natural leather, with just the handle in carbon (the button and badge is silver),much nicer IMO. If its an all leather handle you are after, make sure that the base of the handle is not black plastic like my OEM handle. Regards, BD
  25. On the brake and clutch pedal, mark, drill (use a good drill bit), and fasten only one hole, then tighten up the bolt, leaving enough 'looseness' so that you can adjust the aluminum pedal's angle (but not so loose that the pedal will flop around). Once you are satisfied with the pedal's orientation in relation to the base (use a mirror to look behind the pedal), drill the other holes using the aluminum pedal's mounting hole as a guide. When you are tightening the screws, you need to put pressure on the screw heads since you will be tightening self-locking nuts. If your screwdriver slips, you will scratch the aluminum pedal face (you may want to mask off the area around the screw head with tape). To grab the self-locking nut, a ratcheting box wrench is will make things go faster, since the bolt is so long a regular socket will bottom out. Finally you can cheat the brake pedal a little closer to the accelerator pedal for better heel-toe work if that's your thing. Regards BD
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