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About RF5BPilot

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    03 996 CAB
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    96 993
    69 911S
    65 356 SC
    67 Fiat Dino
    66 275 GTS Ferrari

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  1. If the above doesn't help, chatter usually comes from blades that grab, then skip. This is typically caused by the rubber blade itself or the windshield. In general, assuming your chattering isn't actually a function of problems in the wiper motor assembly, if the blades skip in both directions, the windshield is contaminated. If they only skip in one direction, (or only top or bottom of the blade skips) it's an alignment problem. Clean the windshield thoroughly. This might include a slightly more aggressive cleaner. Sometimes you might even have to use a solvent to get sap or some petroleum
  2. If the car is a CPO, you'd think the dealer would have a log of oil changes to date, each with a mileage (should have been done at least once a year).
  3. fwiw, I have tended to drive with a radar detector since the 60's. I felt that if a LEO was casting a net, I had the right to know -- no matter how fast or slow I was driving. (Some states disagree.) It also let's me anticipate a crowd of drivers who suddenly slam their brakes on as they round a corner/crest a hill - to find a cop car by the side of the road. I agree that some try to use it as a defense against stupid/inappropriate driving -- and am content to know that it won't work that way. When I bought my car 5 years ago, I had an Escort SRX installed. In this way, it's built in to th
  4. I agree that Porsches -- (have only driven C2's) -- drive well in winter. The old logic was -- if there's salt on the roads (and thus on your car), don't park your car in a heated garage overnight. The warm temps maximize the corrosive effects of the salt (or whatever the compound du'jour is) -- then you go out and coat it again the next day. Once salt is on, leave it outside until you wash it. (Not sure how much this really matters. Your choice.)
  5. I recently had my IMS bearing replaced (LNE product), RMS and clutch (disk/pressure plate/throwout bearing) + oil change -- for about $2700 (including labor, parts & tax). I think Porsche should have given owners better support on this. Obviously, their solution was the 997.2 engine. On the other hand, when you look at the service requirements and costs for other (genuine) high performance cars, $2700 is a drop in the bucket. We have tended to become so accustomed to Porsche reliability that people buy these expecting to get the kind of no-issue reliability that they got with their l
  6. I just had some of the coolant replaced in my 996. The shop just mixed Porsche coolant with tap water. That said, the tap water in the Seattle area is mountain run-off. You might want a different source if your city water was coming from wells that had high calcium or other elements.
  7. Thanks to Loren, moderators and experienced contributors. I wince when I see some of the advice tossed about on Rennlist & 6speed. It's no fault of the forums. I've seen crushingly stupid advice and misinformation offered as if it were straight from a factory manual. I have appreciated the more reasoned, experienced advice & information on this forum. Happy 2011.
  8. The M96 has had its problems, more than we have come to expect from Porsche. An acquaintance showed me a scheduled service that was done to his Ferrari for over $15k. Nothing to repair, just a service. I am quite happy to treat the RMS/IMS/AOS/water pump (if you believe the latest from Raby about the plastic impellor)....as preventive maintenance items. It's not as if the engine core is badly designed and it's throwing rods. The intermix problem is more disappointing, but thankfully, seemed to affect relatively few years and (I would hope) has pretty well worked itself out of the system
  9. It is true that a multi-weight oil will flow in colder temps like the lower of the two weights. But at cooler temps, that is still a lot thicker than the higher weight when the engine is warm. I run 20w-50 in my airplane. In 40 degree temps, the pressure will almost peg on high--just at initial idle. I let it run a bit to thin the oil even before I raise the rpm's enough to taxi. With the engine fully warmed, at max rpm, I'll only see a pressure of about 3/4 of the max. And this engine only uses a strainer--no pleated filter like the Porsche.
  10. Thanks. I have no concern about a warm engine, operating with recommended oil within normal rpm ranges. My guess is that the by-pass is there for cold weather conditions. For all we know, it was installed so that someone running thick oil (heavy weight) in a cold engine at higher rev's wouldn't cause the plastic filter housing to fail.
  11. Actually, if you would do a search, the particular issue of the loss of a by-pass has never really been addressed. Almost all the information has come from LNE, with just a few vague buy-ins from reponders with no clear expertise. Part of the problem is, how would you be able to tell how often and under what conditions the by-pass engages or is necessary to maintain flow?
  12. LN Engineering has been selling their spin on oil filter adapter for some time. While I tend to agree that it may be more convenient and cost effective (in the long run) than the factory cartridge, the filters they recommend don't have a high-pressure by-pass valve. Their argument is that with the spin-on, all the oil gets filtered. Yet, it seems to me that all the oil has been getting filtered all along and if conditions have created a need for the by-pass to let more oil through for a few seconds, that's better than over-pressure or starvation due to oil not being able to get throught the
  13. I can't agree enough on the recomendation(s) for driver instruction. Years ago, I used to autocross almost every weekend in Columbus, Ohio, with different clubs. One weekend, Paul Dickinson drove up from W. VA to compete in his 911E (then a current model). He bested the local hotshot in his 911S by 6 seconds. Local hotshot filed a protest. Paul got in the hotshot's car and beat the hotshot by 4 seconds (while everyone else was working to beat each other by a few tenths). Instruction makes you faster, safer, smoother, easier on your car and you won't be one of the young guys trying to add cra
  14. Suggest that he pays you $550 to remove it from his premises to make room for the next one he wrecks.
  15. My '03 996 C2 Cab has about 45k and runs well. Have kept up with all scheduled maintenance including brake system flush every 2 yr; replaced the coolant tank cap; cleaned out the radiators before temps started rising. Is there anything else I should consider doing? (e.g., cleaning MAF) I feel I could just as easily argue, since it's running well, leave it alone.
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