Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Yes, engine was up to temp. I replaced the sensors about 3-4 years ago with a couple of cheap and cheerful ones. This time I'm going to get a couple of Bosch ones. Thanks to you both for your help. And also Durametric for their code reader -- it proved useful a couple of years ago when I had a couple of ABS sensors pack up. Suspect that I'll have to replace the cats as well: they are 14 years old now and all that HC contamination will not have done them any good...
http://www.renntech....__1#entry184456 There is a pdf about 4 or 5 posts down. That describes the procedure.
Hi, got out the Durametric and got the following fault codes: P0154 O2 sensor ahead of cat P1115 Resist limit O2S ahead of cat B1 P1119 Resist limit O2S ahead of cat B2 P0134 O2 sensor ahead of cat bank 2? Cleared them and rebooted the software a couple of times but only P0130 O2 ahead of cat conv bank 1 appeared after that. Other readings: O2 sensor voltage 0.14V steady and 0.08-0.67V fluctuating FRA 1.28/0.94 TRA 0.08/-0.06 MAF 1.35V 14.5 kg/h @ idle; 1.92V 44kg/h @ 2500RPM The readings seem to point to the right hand O2 sensor being dodgy, but the reoccurring code seems to point to the left hand one... Over to you, and TIA.
Richard Hamilton did a thread on how to upgrade a non-cruise control car to a cruise control car and there is a certain amount of detail about installing the pedal in that thread. Can't remember if the thread is here or on the PCGB forum though (his car was a 996 so it'll be in that forum, whichever site).
Took the 986 for its MOT yesterday and filled up with 97 RON fuel rather than the usual 95 RON just before (long story) so that it went into the test with probably a 60:40 mix of 97:95 Would this (dumb) fuelling error have contributed to the following awful emissions numbers? No current CEL lights and the car seems to drive fine at the moment. 2500-3000 RPM CO 5.09% actual 0.30% Max HC 413ppm actual 200 Max Lambda 0.91 actual 0.97-1.03 Allowed These numbers seem to say to me that the fuel/air mix is too rich. If it is not the fuelling mistake any suggestions as to where to start (I would have said cats but the low Lambda number doesn't seem to be consistent with that; if it were those I would expect the Lambda figure to be too high). TIA.
Yes, there are two: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...650&hl=seat
Listing has changed due to an error: only available as a pair: $175. Got a reply from Samstag Sales, who do export, $179.99 from them and $40 or so post/insurance from USA to UK. May buy the pair and sell one on.
I have a P1531 and have found these camshaft holding tools on Ebay, $89.99: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Don't think they ship to the UK though although am awaiting a reply to a email sent on Sunday (which I suspect won't be coming...) Also contacted Sir Tools who also haven't replied, nor seem to have any European distribution.
At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs did you put in anti squeal shims in when you replaced the pads? I transferred the old ones when I replaced the ones on my 996, but there weren't any on the Boxster so I just used a smear of copperslip. You might want to try either/or/both of these if you haven't already. PS Just read the original post -- the Porsche pads don't come with the antisqueal shims attached, they are a separate part that just ends up sticking to the pad over time. If you take a wallpaper scraper you can split them apart from the old pads and reuse.
What do you mean by noise: are you talking about brake squeal?
I am sure that I have posted photos on this site showing that Brembo are just rebadged Textars. I can't find them so here you are:
It's the driving horn/fanfare at the wire/horn connection under the front bumper. I picked up a cheap replacement set of horns off of Ebay as the connectors looked the same but the internal pins are small spade connectors rather than the pin connectors that the Boxster has. I'll probably go to the local OPC and get a Porsche set today but I am now like a dog with a bone about what type of connectors these are, can you adapt them for a Porsche, etc. Will look at PKs link in the meantime, thanks.
Long shot I know, but does anyone know what the name of the connector on the horn is called -- oval shape with two pin connectors internally -- or the plug in part on the wire? Had a look at some electric component catalogs but there are millions.