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Paul Fraser

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Everything posted by Paul Fraser

  1. Best I could find was £125 for two at Eurocarparts who have 25% off at the moment. They are ~£85 ($130ish) each elsewhere.
  2. Yes, engine was up to temp. I replaced the sensors about 3-4 years ago with a couple of cheap and cheerful ones. This time I'm going to get a couple of Bosch ones. Thanks to you both for your help. And also Durametric for their code reader -- it proved useful a couple of years ago when I had a couple of ABS sensors pack up. Suspect that I'll have to replace the cats as well: they are 14 years old now and all that HC contamination will not have done them any good...
  3. Thanks again Loren. I think I may just replace both as I can't understand the fluctuating #2 figures, unless of course that is normal and a steady reading isn't!!
  4. http://www.renntech....__1#entry184456 There is a pdf about 4 or 5 posts down. That describes the procedure.
  5. Hi, got out the Durametric and got the following fault codes: P0154 O2 sensor ahead of cat P1115 Resist limit O2S ahead of cat B1 P1119 Resist limit O2S ahead of cat B2 P0134 O2 sensor ahead of cat bank 2? Cleared them and rebooted the software a couple of times but only P0130 O2 ahead of cat conv bank 1 appeared after that. Other readings: O2 sensor voltage 0.14V steady and 0.08-0.67V fluctuating FRA 1.28/0.94 TRA 0.08/-0.06 MAF 1.35V 14.5 kg/h @ idle; 1.92V 44kg/h @ 2500RPM The readings seem to point to the right hand O2 sensor being dodgy, but the reoccurring code seems to point to the left hand one... Over to you, and TIA.
  6. Richard Hamilton did a thread on how to upgrade a non-cruise control car to a cruise control car and there is a certain amount of detail about installing the pedal in that thread. Can't remember if the thread is here or on the PCGB forum though (his car was a 996 so it'll be in that forum, whichever site).
  7. Took the 986 for its MOT yesterday and filled up with 97 RON fuel rather than the usual 95 RON just before (long story) so that it went into the test with probably a 60:40 mix of 97:95 Would this (dumb) fuelling error have contributed to the following awful emissions numbers? No current CEL lights and the car seems to drive fine at the moment. 2500-3000 RPM CO 5.09% actual 0.30% Max HC 413ppm actual 200 Max Lambda 0.91 actual 0.97-1.03 Allowed These numbers seem to say to me that the fuel/air mix is too rich. If it is not the fuelling mistake any suggestions as to where to start (I would have said cats but the low Lambda number doesn't seem to be consistent with that; if it were those I would expect the Lambda figure to be too high). TIA.
  8. Yes, there are two: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...650&hl=seat
  9. Listing has changed due to an error: only available as a pair: $175. Got a reply from Samstag Sales, who do export, $179.99 from them and $40 or so post/insurance from USA to UK. May buy the pair and sell one on.
  10. I have a P1531 and have found these camshaft holding tools on Ebay, $89.99: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Don't think they ship to the UK though although am awaiting a reply to a email sent on Sunday (which I suspect won't be coming...) Also contacted Sir Tools who also haven't replied, nor seem to have any European distribution.
  11. At the risk of teaching you to suck eggs did you put in anti squeal shims in when you replaced the pads? I transferred the old ones when I replaced the ones on my 996, but there weren't any on the Boxster so I just used a smear of copperslip. You might want to try either/or/both of these if you haven't already. PS Just read the original post -- the Porsche pads don't come with the antisqueal shims attached, they are a separate part that just ends up sticking to the pad over time. If you take a wallpaper scraper you can split them apart from the old pads and reuse.
  12. What do you mean by noise: are you talking about brake squeal?
  13. I am sure that I have posted photos on this site showing that Brembo are just rebadged Textars. I can't find them so here you are:
  14. It's the driving horn/fanfare at the wire/horn connection under the front bumper. I picked up a cheap replacement set of horns off of Ebay as the connectors looked the same but the internal pins are small spade connectors rather than the pin connectors that the Boxster has. I'll probably go to the local OPC and get a Porsche set today but I am now like a dog with a bone about what type of connectors these are, can you adapt them for a Porsche, etc. Will look at PKs link in the meantime, thanks.
  15. Long shot I know, but does anyone know what the name of the connector on the horn is called -- oval shape with two pin connectors internally -- or the plug in part on the wire? Had a look at some electric component catalogs but there are millions.
  16. Mmmm. I had this on my Boxster and no amount of 'spirited driving' made the slightest bit of difference and I eventually had it replaced. However, I was getting check lights at idle and not at 2-3k.
  17. Hi Nick, I have just been going throught the same thing with my 996: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=21574&hl= I upgraded my code reader to a Durametric to get the deeper codes (I was getting P301-303 initially from my OBD2 reader as well) and confirmed my hunch that the variocam solenoid was unserviceable. I've had two of these done on a Boxster I had and suspect you are in for one as well. Which Scottish OPC was it you got diagnosed at? From your description it sounds like Aberdeen but £600 seems well cheap for a variocam solenoid change from them as it is supposed to be an engine out job. I paid around £450 at Ninemeister three or four years ago while visiting Warrington. PS From what I have read our cars have an on/off solenoid; later models (post 2000?) have a hydraulically variable solenoid.
  18. OK, had another look at this tonight. Put the wheel on and took the Jesus nut off. The tension bolt came out easily, and better, far enough so I didn't have to take the shock absorber off. After I turned the hub (wheel off again) to the left I had good access and after a couple of good swings at a drift with a large hammer the remainder of the sensor popped out. The tension bolt goes back far enough to retrieve the remainder from the rear of the hub. New sensor fitted after cleaning the hole with a piece of sandpaper, Also put a skim of copperslip around the circumference of the sensor. My Durametric shows that the associated code had cleared leaving me one on the back right which I think is a wiring fault. I hope so; I can see that being more problematical otherwise.
  19. While trying to remove a speed/abs sensor in my '97 Boxster it broke in half as it had become well and truely stuck in the hole. Surprising as the sensor is plastic cased... I have subsequently been trying to dig/drill it out but have gotten nowhere. Anyway, I am now planning on removing the wheel hub and dismantling so I can hopefully knock it through the hole it is in. Can anyone confirm that if I remove the tension bolt (5) I will be able to do this, i.e. that the hole isn't blind? I assume the reason the tension bolt has a toothed circumference is that this alters current produced by the magnet in the sensor and so provides a signal to the ABS unit?
  20. Just the obvious one: why don't you try again and if that doesn't work email Rick (Cannell) and tell him. From what I remember of him on the PCGB or Tipec forums (I forget which one) he is pretty agreeable.
  21. I would suggest that they may just be preparing you for the possibility of replacing the flywheel rather than actually planning to do it. When I had mine in for a clutch change (996 with 36000 miles that was getting an RMS done so I elected to do the clutch at the same time) I asked if it would need a new flywheel and they sensibly said they would let me know when they could see what the current one was like. Maybe your garage doesn't want the car blocking one of the slots in the garage while they wait for a flywheel to be delivered, if it needs one...
  22. I assume this is the variocam solenoid valve then? There is another chap on the board who replaced his in situ, but the manual states (15 37 19) that the variocam tensioning element has to be vertical or correct seating of the compression spring is no longer ensured. Anyone know anything about this?
  23. OK, more on this (I moved house a year or so ago so the car has been mostly sitting in the garage). Got a durametric reader (good piece of kit) and pulled the following codes: P1531 Unknown DTC: 1531 I've edited this as when I cleared them this was the only one that kept coming back. It indicates a timing chain problem, how could this have happened, if indeed it is that? Anyone care to hazard a diagnosis and what do I do next? TIA
  24. I think if I get into this I may ask you another dozen questions if that is ok... :) For the moment though, how did you skip a tooth and why did you replace the entire assembly second time aroung (was that when you skipped a tooth)?
  25. I think I am going to have to do mine. How much was the cam holding tool? Also, in the last but one photo where is your tool holding the camshaft? Thanks.
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