Paul Fraser

I've posted some pics about how to do this before -- have a search on my posts and see if that throws anything up.

I don't know how you got them out of line, but if you plug in the power and motor the seats fully forward or back hopefully the rails will line up again.

You may have to tilt the chair sideways so it doesn't move in the car, and watch the moving rails don't damage the console carpet etc.

I think there is something about this on Boxa.net so you might want to have a search. 23-25Nm iirc. There is also something about the installation sequence, I would imagine 12 o'clock screw then 6, then 3, then 9 and so on.

I've also heard one story about someone who bust one of the screws trying to get them out so you might want to use some penetrating oil, and find a source of spares just in case.

Have you tried Porsche-Apart? There is also a couple of guys on Ebay that break Boxsters and the like. Plus Douglas Valley breakers etc. (but I've heard variable things about them). Whatever your source make sure you can send it back if it doesn't work in your car and isn't "sold as seen".

What's the price of yours then (we are all sitting on the edge of our seats...)?

Did you get the serial number from the unit display or from the case...?

My junk decoder gave 3665. I'd also try 3666 and 3667. You'll be locked out for an hour after three goes.

Anyone know what size brake pipe is used on a 996/Boxster? I assume 3/16 rather than 3/8 (or its metric equivalent).

And the fittings at the end? (It needs a 11mm or 13mm spanner depending on the brake pipefitting).

What kind of seats do you have at the moment? Sports or comfort? I couldn't get comfortable in the last Boxster I sat in with sports seats as the shoulder pads pushed me forward slightly. The comfort seats (the ones without the shoulder "wings") are better for me (about 6' 1", I think, but probably shrinking with age to 6'!) as I can lean further back.

I second the comment about the console delete option (if your car is RHD, I'm not sure the gain is so good for LHD) as I find I could do with more leg room in a RHD 996, so it must be worse in a Boxster.

I have tried the above ones but no luck

I'm not surprised as the codes are serial number dependent. Have you got the same serial number as above? If not post it here. Information on how to obtain the serial number can be found by searching on the forum if you don't have it to hand,

PS: if you have tried the other two codes Loren offered you might be locked out for 24 hours: think this is ignition on time so it might take a while to clear.

With the CR21 you have to push the arrow button upward (or down maybe) after entering the four digits. The 22s just need the four digits but there is a "enter" step required on the 21s.

OK, I got out of bed and checked the manual : enter the four digits and confirm by pressing the 'automatic' switch -- which is the double arrow one at the right hand side.

I'd take the wheels off and pop them out from the back (you'll have access to the hooks that keep it in position). I've managed to wreck a centre cap with the hook it from the front method.

I'm still thinking there is a part swap we can do to get the windows in the Carerra to act the same as the Cayman, but I've got no clue as to where or how to look.

Get hold of a Cayman owner and try their relay? (Edit: had a quick look in the PET couldn't find a window relay.)

Cayman switch is a 2006 997 switch according to PET

Has anyone changed the brakeline that runs from the junction box in the front LH wheelwell to the RH caliper (this line runs beside the power steering rack).

I do not think it is possible to pass the line through the tiny gap that there is, and am wondering if you have to drop the antiroll bar to get access from below. Even then I'm doubtful about being able to fit this pipe.

Anyone had this done/done it themselves or is my car the fleet leader in corrosion? :)

I assume this is post leak rectification/component change refill...?

I need to remove the fuel tank from my 1978 924. The chilton manual tells me to remove the transmission first. Is this mandatory, or is there a trick.

Thanks Steve

You have to take out the diff on a 944, and I think the tank part numbers are the same in both cars. Before I do that I've patched a leak with 'Petro patch' (got it off Ebay). Might have worked... I'll tell you in another few days. The leak was under the strap offside corner.

Well done, I'm sure a lot of us have been waiting for this. Looks more tricky than I had been hoping for.

I think that was a smart choice. It's one thing experimenting with two duff clusters but I wouldn't have used my original either -- even if I was really good at electrical soldering. Nice to know that you can possibly turn two broken clusters into one serviceable one though.

Probably going in a 944 anyway. Thanks for the info though. Probably explains why there is not such a mad dash for them on Ebay as there is for the 2660.

Fantastic Loren, thanks. That matches up with what ECP have on their website (found since my original post).

So those individual LCD units can't be swapped? It has the be the whole board or nothing? I'm asking because of your problem, TP. If you find a unit with 2 out of 3 LCDs ok, you can't take one of them to sort your 5 dial Ebay cluster?

Will this work with the CR21, CDR21, CR22, CDR22? Thanks.

PS Probably not the best forum to post this: can we have a Audio/Hifi forum for stuff like this, Loren?

Can anyone tell me the part number they got if they have recently replaced their aircon condensers?

PET shows 996.573.111.02. However, I have a C4S aircon condenser, 996.573.111.03. Are these the same: if not does anyone know the difference?

The reason I need to know is it looks like I might have misadvertised and want to correct the error if required: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/161410.htm

Thanks.