Paul Fraser

Saw this on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

Would like to have a rocker switch that combines the manual operation of the spoiler and the functionalty of this switch (i.e. visual indication). Has a switch reposition mod been posted? -- I searched but couldn't find anything

Also, is what I am suggesting what the 987 has?

Chillo, those won't fit your Boxster at the rear. You need 9J wheels (which have a 50 or 52 or 55 ET, I forget), at the back and 7.5/8Js at the front.

To fit the 10J ET65s you'll need 18m spacers.

Check for yourself here: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp?

That is a huge download: is there not a more bandwith friendly way of doing it?

Loren?

So I take it that cleaning the ICV cured the problem?

Very methodical, TP, but did you check that counting pleats was in your assistant's job description...? :)

Mine are genuine, I've got the part numbers somewhere, 993.xxx.xxx.xx etc. The set on the car above are 8J/10J but need refurbed. The current set on the car the moment are 7.5J/10J and also genuine Porsche. Alas they also need a refurb.

The replicas listed on Ebay are a relatively current arrival there but I think the specialist dealers have been offering these for a while now. The only issues I've read about relates to:

(1) insurance issues as they are not recommended wheels (think this is bogus scaremongering myself).

(2) the increased weight of the wheels giving rise to an increase in unsprung mass or something like that (probably of interest only to racers but I'm sure someone will jump in to correct me!)

Not sure if this is the lot I was talking about above but it will give you an idea:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Porsche-Turbo-1-Tech...1QQcmdZViewItem

Dennis, you can get Turbo 3 replicas on Ebay with tyres for around £850, if you can't find a secondhand set.

Pity you are in Eire as I've got a set I would swap for your GT3 Sports Designs.

My gut feeling was that they wouldn't, but rather than just post an opinion I thought the link would be more use. 33mm is quite a lot isn't it? I'm going down to measure up something else on my car later on, so I think I'll see what that looks like.

Good luck with it and I hope you can be bothered to write a DIY for the rest of us who are thinking about doing it ourselves.

Do a search, there is info on the board here that I used when I did mine. Relatively easy to access but watch the gasket between the ICV and the facing -- I managed to break mine. Suggest you order another before you do the jb.

Do a search on radio codes: there is a method in a recent thread to get the serial number without taking the unit out (think it is press TP until you get the 'Becker' logo and then two clicks clockwise of the rh knob).

I PM'd him these three on Sunday but none of them worked; he had extracted the serial number from radio too. He was kind enough to tell me he had got a code from the dealer: 6509, go figure.

Should the display be lit at night? I assume there are a couple of bulbs either side of the LCD screen to illuminate it?

OK, I'll ask the idiot's question. Where is this part and what does it do? I'm guessing it has something to do with lowering the roof...

UK cars have this fitted in the area to the side of the battery. I'll see if I can get a photograph for you.

Similar problem on boxa.net seems to have been sorted. Is this the problem?

"The new 'stronghold' cookie feature present in Invision Power Board 2.2.0 goes a long way to solving this dilemma of security/complacency however, in the spirit of 'defense in depth' Invision Power Board offers further protection. Now, a new log in key is generated upon every successful authentication whether from a manual log in from the log in form or via a persistent log in. The log in key also expires after 7 days."

Can it be turned off by you Loren?

Any chance you could:

(a) post the parts required (for those of us not in the USA) if you have the list to hand

(B) explain what you mean about messing with the old vent?

Thanks.

Think it is about 24 hours iirc. Have patience!

And 4375. Then you'll probably be locked out for a while.

Thanks for the how-to Chris.

Duplicolour don't sell in the UK/Europe because of another company using the same name.

I'm trying to find a UK supplier of this paint but am not having much success (have contacted the manufacturer).

Repainting my cloudy black calipers on the Boxster is on my list of fantasy jobs to complete real soon.

The bottom card has 3048 as the serial number and 9109 as the code. But the decoder says 8997 is the code.

Strange....

You are up late :) It's just past midday here...

I bet the serial number revealed by the unit would have been different to the one on the card.

I've had some decode problems with this software too, but they were because the serial number on the sticker wasn't actually the serial number of the unit. I suggest you use the technique here to get the serial number (it also saves you having to remove the unit) -- paragraph 4:

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/radiocodes

PS FWIW the CR220 I have is +1 on the junk decoder solution, the CR22 +1 (another one had the dodgy serial number), CR21 +2, and the two CDR22s, +0 and +2. Go figure. These were sticker serial numbers and not extracted as above. I should retry this someday. There is another CR22 I haven't tried yet.

The car was in for its MOT on Tuesday and the mechanic let me jump down the pit and we had a look at the transmission end of the clutch cable. Everything seemed to be in place but it all looked a bit manky. He said he would give it a spray with WD40 while they were doing the MOT and exercise the gearshift to see if that improved it. It made a big difference. It's still not silky smooth but it is considerably better than it was before and probably liveable with for a while.

Haven't checked the clutch fluid yet but will. The car was serviced a under a year ago so hopefully not that.

Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions.