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sac2dude

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    21
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    $25.00 
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About sac2dude

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 01/12/1965

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.rich-and-anne.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Computers
    Home Theater
    Cars
    Scuba

Profile Fields

  • From
    Orangevale, CA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Ford F-150 SC
    2011 Ford Fiesta SES
    2001 Porsche Boxster
    1970 Dodge Challenger conv.
  • Future cars
    2001-03 911 Turbo
  • Former cars
    1991 Mazda Miata
  1. My wife and I did that swap with her 2001 base Boxster about... geez, 12 years ago. She really wanted an oil pressure gauge. :-) I picked one up off of Ebay for $160. We then took it over to our local instrument cluster shop (which worked on VDO) and had them change the odometer. They didn't give us much of an issue about it, since we actually added 20,000 miles to it so it'd match our current Boxster mileage. Then I came home from work one day, and the garage door was open, and my wife had the dash taken apart, the old cluster out, and was fashioning space for the new cluster into the housing with a dremel! She had bits of plastic all over her. It's one of those times when you just KNOW you married the right girl! My understanding is that the Boxster clusters differ, so for a 1999 the xfer might not work. Here's an old thread discussing it:
  2. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I recently received my Fastrak Flex in the mail. I plan on installing it in the Boxster tonight, but I've never had one, and I'm a bit confused of how I should set the switch (1,2,3+) for passengers. Obviously for just "me", it'd be "1"... But if I have a passenger, do I set the switch to "2", or bump it to "3+" since I'm essentially a carpool at that point? Anybody have experience with these things? Thanks!
  3. Okay, then I'll pull it off and re-install it this evening, see if that helps. Called Sunset, so a new water pump is on its way. Thanks!
  4. All, So I hear "weird noises" coming from the engine compartment... and I'm thinking "Uh oh.. Power steering is finally giving out...", given that I've had to add PS fluid before. But I pop the cover off - and the PS fluid is fine! Hmm... than what's that rock grinding noise? I comes and goes... So I pop the panel off behind the seats to check the belt and accessories. And... here we go again, its the WATER PUMP! Every so often, while I watch it, it goes from running smoothing to a bit of a wobble, with the corresponding bothersome noise!! Now be big problem with this is that I just changed the pump about 6 years ago... I mean, it doesn't seem like this part should be going out again this soon! But fine... I'll call Sunset tomorrow and order a replacement. But the weird thing is that I noticed that the crankshaft pulley has a wobble to it as well. Is that normal? My wife was bothered about it, so I figured I might try pulling the pulley off to see if I can get it to "set" differently when I torque the bolt back on. Any suggestions? Thanks, Rich Brown
  5. Update: I swear, somehow it fixed itself. Maybe it was just time to dry out a bit from the carpet being cleaned, or perhaps my incessant probing and jostling with my USB-powered scope that I was navigating under the seat to get a look at things, but all of a sudden it started working. The seat's switch which controls "forward/back" and "up/down" does not work for the former, but is fine with the latter. The remaining switches function just fine. Currently I can get the seat to move forward and back only by the memory buttons (my wife is forward, whereas I'm as far back as it'll go). For kicks, once I could get the seat moved back, I removed the two front bolts so I could flip it on its side and take a look at the underneath. Everything appears to be hooked up correctly (nothing loose), nor does there seem to be any kind of cable from the motor to the forward/back gears... it appears that the motor(s) connect to the gears directly. The other interesting find was that a "drive bar" with gears that spans the seat between the racks appears to have an extra sprocket on the outside of the rails, which can conceivably be engaged by a drill with the proper socket, or a gear with the proper teeth spacing. Never saw it until I removed the seat. So all and all, an interesting afternoon/evening, but all seems fine (though I don't like mysteries - I'm concerned about the fragility of the whole thing). Anyway, that's all. I still need to torque the drivers seat bolts, but I'll do that tomorrow morning. Richard
  6. All, My wife is planning a trip, so I thought I'd be nice and have the car detailed. After moving the seat all the way back and all the way forward to vacuum, the detail guy couldn't get it to move. Up/Down work, but forward and back doesn't. The switch seems to have an issue, but when I press the memory button for me, everything adjusts except that it doesn't move backward. The motor keeps running, but its like the gear isn't engaging. Okay, maybe a drive cable is disconnected or broken... they're cheap. At least the motor still works So my thought is - okay, remove the seat. But I can't get to the front bolts! I've got the back ones out, but there is no access with the seat all the way forward. Is there a secret release mechanism? Others must have had this issue. Thanks! Richard
  7. All, Thanks for the offers to help! I really appreciate it. However I'm pretty sure I have it worked out. It's unbelievable, but here's the deal: The original "kit" I purchased was from someone on Ebay. The hoses were still new, still had barcode stickers on them. Then the initial problem occurred after I installed- weird leaks from every hose connection seemingly from the "threads" sandwiched in the rubber. I ordered a 2nd set of hoses, just in case, and picked up a bunch of new clamps at Niello Porsche in Rocklin. They were cool, they handed Anne six of em for free. As I reported here, it STILL leaked. Took time for us to notice it, but EVERY CONNECTION leaked, just as before. SO NOW I was exasperated with it. Spent time doing some research. Found that both sets of hoses were manufactured by URO, based in China. Went to Pelican, found a brand marked as "OEM" by Phoenix. Pelican had the lower passenger side hose. Ordered it. Searched all over for the corresponding Phoenix-branded driver's side upper hose. Finally found one at KO Performance. Ordered it. ONE MORE TIME - tear the puppy apart. The URO and Phoenix hoses were markedly different at the branch "T". The URO hoses were soft and pliant at that location, whereas the Phoenix hoses appeared to be a hard, almost PVC like "T", fused on both sides of the hose. Re-used the same clamps from the previous install. Put her back together, and Anne's been driving around all over the place. They just returned from Apple Hill this afternoon. Result? No more leaks. It was the **** hoses. People I've talked to speculated about overpressure issues might have occurred, but the fact is that the only hoses to leak on the car were the URO's. None of the OEM hoses from 2001 were having a problem, and to install the modified cooling lines I had to unclamp/clamp a couple of those as well. I'm speculating that somehow, under pressure, the URO's were allowing coolant to escape INTO the hoses at the "T", which would manifest as a leak at the tail ends of the hose. Weird? Yes. But I went through essentially 4 URO hoses, all showing the same symptoms, and 2 phoenix hoses, no problem. Same clamps, same guy (me) installing. Glad its fixed, but I find it disturbing that I had a 4 out of 4 failure on those hoses. One? Okay, sure. But this is nuts.
  8. I spoke too soon. The leaking is back. I ran it for a while after installing the new hoses, burped it as I filled the coolant, ran it some more until the radiator fans cycled on and off. No leak. Put it back together. The wife and daughter drove it everywhere... Rancho Cordova, Sierra College, really ran the heck out of it. Checked the garage floor the following day... No leak. At that point I called it done. Then a WEEK later, a drip shows up. Then a couple days later its a puddle,. I just pulled the nose cover and stuff off again to check, and it's leaking from every hose connection again. :( Even into the center radiator inlet/outlet, which never leaked before. I'm at my wits end here. I don't understand it. I guess I'll have to bring it to Niello and pay $1500 or whatever, because it makes no sense. I've spent too many weekends on this stupid problem. Sorry, I appreciate you guys trying to help, but I know at this point all I can do is vent.
  9. Finished putting her together on Saturday after much testing, and all is good!! :thumbup: Bottom line: BAD HOSES. I ordered two replacement hoses for the center radiator, installed 'em. No more leaks. Same clamps, etc. Cudos to the Precision Chassis Works cooling line modifications! Those thing really make life easier, with less points of failure. Best $80 I've ever spent. The wife is now very happy, and the Boxster looks sweet with that 996 bumper cover. Now all we need as a 3.6L transplant, and we're good to go!
  10. I'll move the clamps, but I'm not confident it'll make a difference. If you look closely at the pictures, my concern is the coolant isn't coming out of the fitting/hose interface, it's coming out of the hose itself where the threads are layered into the hose. It's weird...
  11. Thanks! I had no idea how to attach files... I can see my facebook-linked photos, but have no idea if anybody else can, so here they are as attachments. Anybody have any suggestions? Are these just bad hoses??
  12. Okay, I contacted Precision Chassis Works, sent in my old cooling pipes, and then got them back. Just put them in today, and they do look great. But I'm still leaking, and its the strangest looking stuff I've ever seen. It appears to be seeping from the center of the hose: HELP! I'll try linking to facebook to post pictures: Here's the modified Passenger side cooling line... Here's the drivers side modified cooling line: And this is the lower passenger side hose going into the radiator...
  13. Check out Pelican Parts for copper adaptors. I installed the center radiator a while back and just used worm screw hose clamps to tighten over hoses and pipes, even though they didn't match. No problems. Thanks for all the replies! So you're saying you DID use those copper adapters? Or did you skip using them and just tightened the hose down to fit the smaller Boxster hardline? Given the difference in size, I'm really surprised that would work! I've searched for that size adapter (1 1/4"x 7/8") and can't find it available from my normal outlets (amazon.com, etc.) Lowe's didn't have that size either. I'll check with Pelican.
  14. Followed both the instructions from Loren and PelicanParts regarding the install. Replaced the hoses, installed the radiator, picked up the screw-type radiator hose clamps of different sizes, etc. Hooked everything up and ran the car, adding coolant and following the "burping" instructions. Everything seemed fine, so we bolted the bumper cover back on. Next day, antifreeze all over the garage floor! :-( Put it back on jackstands, took off the cover, and what I see is multiple leaks of various amounts. There seems to be a small seepage between each hose to the center radiator and the corresponding inlet/outlet... only starts after running for a while once the system is hot. The side radiators have more "abundant" drippage which beings earlier, but only after things warm up. Same spot, the hose to radiator interface. At this point, I count FIVE leaks, all from the same locations. Does the Porsche not like standard screw-type hose clamps?? It's not like I've never changed a coolant hose before... so this is quite frustrating. They're certainly snug, and I think I have the lower passenger radiator hose fixed by fitting 2 clamps on it, but really that's a hack and I'm not happy with it. The wife really wants her car back. Any suggestions??
  15. Loren, Is there an easy way to test it? The only way I can think of is to just swap clusters with the one in the Boxster just to test it. Just sit it there and turn on the ignition. Sure, the oil pressure won't be hooked up, but that won't hurt anything, right?
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