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KevinMac

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Everything posted by KevinMac

  1. I like the amp position, but think I would have made a box to go behind the rear seats with matching carpet and same dimension as the rea deck. This would make it look like it's part of the deck. Hmm, Someone else had the same Idea. Cool Here is the one I built in my spare time. I have built more than 2 dozen boxes in my day I must say that this was the most difficult. I plan on building a Fiber box molded to the car so that I can squeeze out enough air space to make the next one ported. I have had the RF power amp and P3 Subs for more than a year now just need the time. (not sure
  2. Got the usual tank leak last weekend replaced it with a new one this weekend. After going through a lot threads on this same subject, and to some it was said it was not an easy job. Some clipped off the GT3 fuel filter hanger support etc.. In my case it went fairly easy. I found if you support the engine with a hydraulic jack, remove the left rear lower motor mount bolt, and then let the engine down while still supporting it, it gives you the necesary clearences you need. In my case I just had to remove the air pump. and the snorkel, no filter box removal necessary! Suince I have big hands
  3. [ This method is done on marine engines all the time, only reason being you can't get at the drain plug. With that said, it does not drain the engine as completly as the drain plug. I drained my engine oil without raising any wheel at all. It's not a problem. In fact if you don't keep it level you may not get all the oil.
  4. I like the amp position, but think I would have made a box to go behind the rear seats with matching carpet and same dimension as the rea deck. This would make it look like it's part of the deck.
  5. Quality of sound is a product of a system and the enviroment it is in. A head unit by itself will not yield much or any at all. In order to get most bang for the buck you need to do the entire system from amp to speakers. Besides the environment of a Porsche is not that conduscive to great sound quality.
  6. I think this one is going to be hard to determine. Not knowing the state of actual end product from the forging process could lead to a lot of speculation. I have to agree if the LWFW was balanced to the unit than there really should be no harmonics weighing in on the fatigue. The Porsche article was written for those who use aftermarket bolt on parts and just assume it's okay. If one is going to use an engine in race trim at the higher rpms, it only makes sense that the bolt on components should be balanced as part of the unit. It would not surprise me that there was a flaw in the forgi
  7. If you really want to buy the car spend the $30 for a Carfax and spend $100-$200 for a PPI (pre purchase inspection). I agree with Loren, cheap insurance
  8. I wouldn't do it! The 55 series will have a higher side wall meaning less handling. Porsche actualy tunes the suspension based on a set of assumptions. So this very well takes it outside the assumptions. Stock tire Sidewall4" Radius 12.5 Diamter 25.1 Circumfernece78.8 Revs per mile 804 205/55/17 Sidewall4.4 Radius 12.9 Diamter 25.9 Circumfernece 81.3 Revs per mile 779
  9. Nice congrats- don't wreck this one (LOL). Just make sure you have it checked for IMS and RMS leaks!
  10. Just an FYI, the factory headers really are not that bad! Infact it is my understanding that the 996 1999 296 HP engines and the 2000 996 300HP engine was basically a minor change in exhaust and some minor engine mapping. So in essence the factory system is pretty good. Looking at the 2000 996 set and it's tubing, I really don't think any 3rd party will net you much or anything at all!
  11. Read the fine print, policies may require proof of maintenace before they pay for anything. If this is the case you should ask the question who is required to perform the maintenance, keep records.
  12. Okay - I've read through as many posts as I can on oil, and seen enough oil fights! No sense in trying to argue an issue that has too many experts and individual viewpoints. I'll continue using Mobile Water (since the only tangible data point I have is a failed engine within 3k miles after the oil was switched to M1 15W-50). But I still maintain the following items: lower weight = better cold start protection (related to "w" 1st rating on multi-viscosity oil) higher weight = better race (high-heat, high-rpm) protection (related to 2nd rating in multi-viscosity oil) less of an
  13. No one said that 0w-40 vs 5w-40 provides any better hot protection. I simply stated that in my climate I don't need the 0W ( winter) grade where I live. In fact he 100 deg c spec are the same for both 0w-40M1 and 5w-40 Cast. The only reason I use 5w-40 is, it meets the European specs which is ACEA: A3, B3, B4, MB 229.3, MB 229.1, BMW LL-98, and Porsche approved. It would be nice if there would be a universal spec for all manufacturers- standardize. As a side note, BMW LL indicates a long life oil. BMW along with Porsche etc, have very wide drain intervals.This is not advocating one should
  14. Check the dryer. Run the Ac and pull the plastice cowl/battery covers off and see if you can hear the noise. Thanks to both for the replies. After taking it to a proper specialist he diagnosed it within minutes. It's a leak in the pipework going up the rear arch to the compressor. It seems the leak causes the vibration to travel through the pipes and the noise appears to be from the front of the car. Just goes to show that the first so called ripoff 'specialists' don't know what they are doing and wasted 4 hours not looking further than watching time clock up in labour per hour.
  15. Check the dryer. Run the Ac and pull the plastice cowl/battery covers off and see if you can hear the noise.
  16. At the risk of starting another "oil wars" thread :oops: The December 2007 Porsche approved oils list doesn't have anything more viscous than 5W-50 as far as I can tell. Given that cold starts are a major wear issue on any engine - the "Mobile Water" seems like a good cold start oil, and the rating to a 40 weight when hot should provide ample protection - given it's the factory fill also. I've tended to run heavier oils when given the option in the past - because I also tend to drive hard. However, after reading and understanding the issues with engine tolerances, and multiple service du
  17. How is the coolant level. usually white smoke is coolant, not oil. Oil is blue. You may have a situation whereas the coolant is washing down the cylinder and burning off.
  18. Just out of curiosity anyone try the 996 RSS Intake Plenum. http://www.rpmracinginc.com/2products-rss.htm
  19. It is very, very important to clean the surface with a proper cleaning agent before applying the paint. If you have access toan auto paint store, get a solven such as "Prepsol" or "Pre-Kleano". If not, you can use the original Formula 409 (it doesn't leave a residue to interfere with paint adhesion, the way most other household cleaning agents do). If the paint chip has gone all the way down to bare metal, you must also remove any traces of oxidation (rust) on the surgace of the metal. You can get a small "scratch pen", which is just a pen with fiberglass fibers in place of where the ink
  20. On startup mine goes right to over 5 bars, then when warm a little over 2 bars at idle, 3K little over 4 bars. No dips on hard acceleration. Currently 30K on the car.
  21. Even though I have niot heard of oil starvation problems, there is a repalcement bottom pan with extended baffles available.
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