Bill_SoCal

Those guys are really, really good. And these components LOVED those extended drain intervals! Obviously those guys (Porsche) are really good or we wouldn't spend the money we do and you would bother rebuilding the engines. That being said, what root cause data shows that all of the failures in the pictures above are lubrication related and not the litany of issues that can cause engine failure. The first set of pictures looks like a valve connected TDC. That can be octane, retarded timing, timing chain failure, etc... The true Pinnacle of development! Hi Jake, Obviously those guys (Porsche) are really good or we wouldn't spend the money we do to buy the rides we own and you would bother rebuilding the engines. That being said, what root cause data shows that all of the failures in the pictures above are lubrication related and not the litany of other issues that can cause engine failure. The first set of pictures looks like a valve connected TDC. Other pictures show resulting piston wall scarring (post valve failure). That can be octane, retarded timing, timing chain failure, fatigue failure not lubrication related, overheating, etc... I'm simply trying to understand how a spin-on that does not have the filtration rating of a factory filter is the panacea for these failures. I don't get it. Having spent the past decade in the oil business, I have provided consistent oil sampling for a variety of applications. I have not found it necessary to provide more frequent oil changes than Porsche recommends. As a matter of fact, the last sampling I did at 14K told me I had 6K left before sampling again. I change my oil at 15K. I absolutely respect your talent with the Porsche Flat 6 engines, however, I would like to understand the failure analysis and how the conclusion is lubrication related. There are many opinions, and I have read an article or two, but an article is simply one person's opinion on a topic. I like to get multiple SME input and link some correlation to a data driven analysis. Without data, it's simple an opinion... Are you suggesting early IMS failures are lubrication related and not an inherent flaw to initial go-to-market design flaws? Just trying to better understand. Good edification. With best regards, Bill

I agree with you. Your data is what I have also seen. There are not many spin-on's that will do better than that. No problem, this is all good debate. The spin-on's I sell are marketed as the world's top performing filters and do screen down to 15 microns. That doesn't mean I would ever use one and change the flow at the filter different than that designed at the factory. Do you use a spin-on? Best regards, Bill

Interesting...where can you show me with objective data that the benefits are better? I sell the world's top performing spin on filters, and I have not found objective empirical information that tells me my set up from Porsche is any less effective than the world's best performing spin-on. As far as a magnetic oil plug, have you ever done oil sampling through Blackstone or Oil Analyzers to see the content of measurable metals in your oil? I have for all three of my Porsche's and I find absolutely no advantage to run a magnetic plug. Are you aware of what flow efficiency differentiates between a spin-on of your choice and the OEM filter? Are you aware of the micron differential or can LN provide that based on their suggested spin-on filter? Without answers to these questions, this is simply a subjective topic. Porsche designs the very best in performance with extended oil change intervals for a reason...they are the SME's in this case (Subject Matter Experts). My company sells the two top performing synthetics in the world and I distribute the best proven spin-on with 98.7% filtering efficiency at 15 microns. I would never use anything but the factory set up...and there too you can analyze flow and effectiveness between Mann, Mahle, Wix, etc. I really suggest you sample your oil. There is no reason to change my oil less than 15K in my Boxster and 10K in my Cayenne's. Actually, the oil I run can easily go much further than that while providing maximum performance. 5-6K is a waste of money and a environmentally irresponsible in my opinion. There's simply no reason. Good luck with the LN adapter...I'll stay with what Porsche engineering recommends. It would be nice to see objective data support the claims of the LN Adapter...and the dozen or so spin-on's available that all very significantly in performance. All the best, Bill :beer: Ps 2003 Boxster with 149,258 miles...if you would like more information on oil sampling and understanding the performance attributes of your oil, please PM me. After posting this, I went to the LN site... "We also recommend the Napa Gold 1042, which exceeds the quality of traditional OE Mahle spin-on filters typically found on aircooled Porshce engines An extra-short filter is also available, Napa Gold 1081, for use when paired with our accusump input adapter. Also compatible with our SPOFA (short for Spin-On Oil Filter Adatper), are the Mobil 1 M1107 or K&N Gold HP-1007 filter. Long story short, the Mobil 1 and K&N Gold filters are a well constructed filter, using synthetic resin impregnated filter media capable of filtering lower micron particles while not restricting oil flow, and have burst pressures much higher than any engine is capable of producing" (retrieved 08//02/09 from http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html). The number one suggested filter, NAPA Gold 1042, I could find no performance metrics. It's really a great price at $6.89. I don't think Napa is putting the R&D into the performance of their filters that I want protecting my Porsche's. I then did a search for the K&N Gold HP-1007 filter...no performance metrics available that I could find on the K&N site in regard to filter performance. Just like I would never use a K&N filter for obvious reasons, I sure wouldn't use an oil filter that the website listed without performance data. Maybe I'm wrong here...simply show me the data. It's that simple. There is not one filter offered for this adapter that I would use on my lawn mower (yes, it uses a spin-on), more or less my Porsche engines. All the best, Bill :beer: Well the filtration may be just as good what i worry about is the plastic threads getting ruined. Of course i do my own oil changes so there is only one person to blame for that but i do not like that with the Porsches. My wife has a BMW 330 with the same type of plastic oil cup. Cheap IMO. The filtration is definitely as good if not better than available spin-on's. If it wasn't, I'm confident the tribologists and fluid engineers at Porsche would make the change to one of the world's most expensive hand built production engines. It's all about performance. I agree with you on the plastic housing. I've never had an issue over the years, but I agree with you. I know what you're saying about the BMW filters. My daughter has a 325i with the same filter housing. It sure is easy to change on the BMW though! Right there on the top of the engine. The first spin-on filter was developed and patented by Wix (www.wixfilters.com) as a matter of convenience for the military (I can't recall...I believe the demand was driven by the Army if I have my story correct). Since 1954 this spin-on filter has been adapted and standardized by the automotive industry as meeting the needs of filtration and also due to the fact that with conventional oil there truly was a requirement to change engine oil every 3K. Today's synthetics don't break down like the days of conventional oil and filtration technology is extremely advanced. I like to think that those Porsche guys know how to engineer a filtration system...those BMW guys seem to be on the same page too. I know VW uses the canister, as did my wife's Volvo XC-90 prior to her Cayenne S. With best regards, Bill

Interesting...where can you show me with objective data that the benefits are better? I sell the world's top performing spin on filters, and I have not found objective empirical information that tells me my set up from Porsche is any less effective than the world's best performing spin-on. As far as a magnetic oil plug, have you ever done oil sampling through Blackstone or Oil Analyzers to see the content of measurable metals in your oil? I have for all three of my Porsche's and I find absolutely no advantage to run a magnetic plug. Are you aware of what flow efficiency differentiates between a spin-on of your choice and the OEM filter? Are you aware of the micron differential or can LN provide that based on their suggested spin-on filter? Without answers to these questions, this is simply a subjective topic. Porsche designs the very best in performance with extended oil change intervals for a reason...they are the SME's in this case (Subject Matter Experts). My company sells the two top performing synthetics in the world and I distribute the best proven spin-on with 98.7% filtering efficiency at 15 microns. I would never use anything but the factory set up...and there too you can analyze flow and effectiveness between Mann, Mahle, Wix, etc. I really suggest you sample your oil. There is no reason to change my oil less than 15K in my Boxster and 10K in my Cayenne's. Actually, the oil I run can easily go much further than that while providing maximum performance. 5-6K is a waste of money and a environmentally irresponsible in my opinion. There's simply no reason. Good luck with the LN adapter...I'll stay with what Porsche engineering recommends. It would be nice to see objective data support the claims of the LN Adapter...and the dozen or so spin-on's available that all very significantly in performance. All the best, Bill :beer: Ps 2003 Boxster with 149,258 miles...if you would like more information on oil sampling and understanding the performance attributes of your oil, please PM me. After posting this, I went to the LN site... "We also recommend the Napa Gold 1042, which exceeds the quality of traditional OE Mahle spin-on filters typically found on aircooled Porshce engines An extra-short filter is also available, Napa Gold 1081, for use when paired with our accusump input adapter. Also compatible with our SPOFA (short for Spin-On Oil Filter Adatper), are the Mobil 1 M1107 or K&N Gold HP-1007 filter. Long story short, the Mobil 1 and K&N Gold filters are a well constructed filter, using synthetic resin impregnated filter media capable of filtering lower micron particles while not restricting oil flow, and have burst pressures much higher than any engine is capable of producing" (retrieved 08//02/09 from http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html). The number one suggested filter, NAPA Gold 1042, I could find no performance metrics. It's really a great price at $6.89. I don't think Napa is putting the R&D into the performance of their filters that I want protecting my Porsche's. I then did a search for the K&N Gold HP-1007 filter...no performance metrics available that I could find on the K&N site in regard to filter performance. Just like I would never use a K&N filter for obvious reasons, I sure wouldn't use an oil filter that the website listed without performance data. Maybe I'm wrong here...simply show me the data. It's that simple. There is not one filter offered for this adapter that I would use on my lawn mower (yes, it uses a spin-on), more or less my Porsche engines. All the best, Bill :beer:

Interesting...where can you show me with objective data that the benefits are better? I sell the world's top performing spin on filters, and I have not found objective empirical information that tells me my set up from Porsche is any less effective than the world's best performing spin-on. As far as a magnetic oil plug, have you ever done oil sampling through Blackstone or Oil Analyzers to see the content of measurable metals in your oil? I have for all three of my Porsche's and I find absolutely no advantage to run a magnetic plug. Are you aware of what flow efficiency differentiates between a spin-on of your choice and the OEM filter? Are you aware of the micron differential or can LN provide that based on their suggested spin-on filter? Without answers to these questions, this is simply a subjective topic. Porsche designs the very best in performance with extended oil change intervals for a reason...they are the SME's in this case (Subject Matter Experts). My company sells the two top performing synthetics in the world and I distribute the best proven spin-on with 98.7% filtering efficiency at 15 microns. I would never use anything but the factory set up...and there too you can analyze flow and effectiveness between Mann, Mahle, Wix, etc. I really suggest you sample your oil. There is no reason to change my oil less than 15K in my Boxster and 10K in my Cayenne's. Actually, the oil I run can easily go much further than that while providing maximum performance. 5-6K is a waste of money and a environmentally irresponsible in my opinion. There's simply no reason. Good luck with the LN adapter...I'll stay with what Porsche engineering recommends. It would be nice to see objective data support the claims of the LN Adapter...and the dozen or so spin-on's available that all very significantly in performance. All the best, Bill :beer: Ps 2003 Boxster with 149,258 miles...if you would like more information on oil sampling and understanding the performance attributes of your oil, please PM me.

I'm certainly not a clutch expert...but I have spent many my fair share of replacing VW clutches in my pre-college days. Seems like every time I had a RMS develop a leak (which was fairly often for me back in those days), it was time to disconnect the electrical, plug the fuel line with a screw, unhook the accelerator cable, remove the (4) 17mm engine to trans axle bolts and drop that bad boy on a skateboard to slide out from under the car... That being said, those days are long gone... How was your pressure plate? You don't mention that at all. My past experience with hard clutch pedals has been pressure plate related. Did the replace that? Your flywheel doesn't look any different than ones I've seen in the past and your clutch looks like it had lots of life left based on how the rivet depth looks still...again not an expert. I would think you has a pressure plate issue. Did you get a new release lever, throwout bearing, and retaining spring new as well? If you don't mind letting us know, what did the final price end up being for your clutch job? I'm at 149,257 as of today with the original clutch and still going strong... All the best, Bill :beer: BTW - My Boxster, unlike my VW days, will definitely go to the shop when it's ready for a clutch.

Hi Bill, I am also about to change the pads on my 2005 Cayenne S, this will be the first time I change any brake pads so I would like to thank you for your write up here. One question after reading this, you mentioned about the grease on the rear pads, what are they and where should it be applied? Same question on front pads too. Are there any other things I should be watching out for? I tend to like to get a detailed procedure list before I dare to move forward with anything on the car... Thanks a BUNCH. Andy Hi Andy, There are some great write ups on the DIY on the forum. You can search and see the step by step with pictures. The grease I am referring to is the grease you'll need to apply to ensure you don't have that terrible squeak or brake squeal. I've always used the synthetic brake pad grease. While only three pistons hit the back of the pad, I coat the entire metal portion of the back of the pad with brake grease. Some guys use high temp RTV, apply it the pad, let is sit overnight and install. I've always done fine with the high temp brake pad grease. What I am referring to for the front pads is that Hawk provided their own compound and I used that. The brake sensor wires don't come out of the housing to pull apart, but it's very easy. I used a flat head screwdriver where the latch is (you can look at a new sensor and see how they come apart) and then I simply used a pair of pliers to pull down and the sensors are easily removed. I have brake piston compression tools, however, for the Cayenne, I found that using a large pair of channel locks with duck tape wrapped on the plier portion as to not scratch the calipers was the hot ticket. You can easily squeeze each piston in so that all three are recessed and then the brake pad(s) easily drop in to place. I think you'll enjoy working on the brakes on your Cayenne and not only realizing the savings, but knowing it got done right by you. All the best, Bill :beer: Andy, Here is a post that shows a Cayenne brake job: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=Brake+Pads Three things when looking at this post: 1) I recommend jack stands. The person doing this brake job has his legs under the vehicle with a floor jack; while probably safe, I don't recommend it. I also did the entire four corners on my knees in lieu of sitting. There is just something about having my legs under a vehicle held up with a floor jack. 2) Check how your sensor wires are before you reassemble your brake pads. In this DIY, the brake pad sensor cable is routed under the brake pin when it should be over the brake pin. 3) Phillips screwdriver for a punch is not the hot ticket. It will take a while to hammer on a screwdriver as with a punch it is relatively easy. I believe I used a 1/4" punch. All the best, Bill :beer:

Hi Bill, I am also about to change the pads on my 2005 Cayenne S, this will be the first time I change any brake pads so I would like to thank you for your write up here. One question after reading this, you mentioned about the grease on the rear pads, what are they and where should it be applied? Same question on front pads too. Are there any other things I should be watching out for? I tend to like to get a detailed procedure list before I dare to move forward with anything on the car... Thanks a BUNCH. Andy Hi Andy, There are some great write ups on the DIY on the forum. You can search and see the step by step with pictures. The grease I am referring to is the grease you'll need to apply to ensure you don't have that terrible squeak or brake squeal. I've always used the synthetic brake pad grease. While only three pistons hit the back of the pad, I coat the entire metal portion of the back of the pad with brake grease. Some guys use high temp RTV, apply it the pad, let is sit overnight and install. I've always done fine with the high temp brake pad grease. What I am referring to for the front pads is that Hawk provided their own compound and I used that. The brake sensor wires don't come out of the housing to pull apart, but it's very easy. I used a flat head screwdriver where the latch is (you can look at a new sensor and see how they come apart) and then I simply used a pair of pliers to pull down and the sensors are easily removed. I have brake piston compression tools, however, for the Cayenne, I found that using a large pair of channel locks with duck tape wrapped on the plier portion as to not scratch the calipers was the hot ticket. You can easily squeeze each piston in so that all three are recessed and then the brake pad(s) easily drop in to place. I think you'll enjoy working on the brakes on your Cayenne and not only realizing the savings, but knowing it got done right by you. All the best, Bill :beer:

My '03 has 149,000 miles with the original clutch. I lost my AOS at 146,000 miles (the ONLY engine component to ever fail since I drove it off the lot new) and thought for sure I had blown the engine...anyway, the dealer replaced the AOS and I noticed the RMS was leaving some drips on my driveway. The Service Manager at my dealership (well qualified...he's been at it since pre water cooled) told me this is normal due to the intense vacuum created when AOS failure occurs. I suggested that I bring the vehicle in and have the RMS replaced since it was leaking and replace the clutch as well since it was the clutch from the factory. He told me not to bother unless the oil drips got excessive and they were bothering me. When I asked about the clutch, I was told not to even bother until the clutch started slipping. At 149,000 miles, pedal feels great and the clutch still grabs like new when I drive it like I just stole it (which is often). I've had nothing but great success with this daily driver. I drive one of the most intense highways in SoCal each and everyday to my office, which is the Ortega Highway. The Ortega is well know for sport bike and performance car enthusiasts alike...I'm just fortunate to need to get to my office through this mountain pass. If I decided I did want to have the RMS and clutch replaced, it would be about $2K. I'll have it done when the clutch starts slipping. I've never had flywheel replacement come up in any conversation. Believe it or not, the RMS stopped leaving a spot on the garage as well. All the best, Bill :beer:

It depends...as a first time owner, I would definitely go with the '08 in warranty. The '05 Turbo would be a blast...how many owners, the mileage, and the general wear and tear are a consideration. Does the Turbo come with or have any mileage left on a certified used warranty through Porsche by chance? I have an '06 Cayenne and an '08 Cayenne S...my '06 is in fantastic condition at 48K and I wouldn't trade it for anything. It remains in excellent condition and has been trouble free. Having stated that, a turbo is on my list of must have vehicles. After waffling here...it depends. You definitely want a hassle free ride. The '08 is a safe bet for that...but you definitely need to run the pro/con checklist starting with price, mileage, condition, performance criteria, warranty, etc. All the best, Bill :beer:

I wouldn't think it would make a significant difference either. Are you seeing a degradation in fuel economy with the 5w-50? My wife's S burned two quarts during the first oil change cycle when it was first new off the lot. My dealer, as well as after market articles told me I should expect to add 1-2 quarts of oil during intervals. I don't run Mobil1 in any of my vehicles. I run Amsoil. After the first oil change I added 5W-40 Amsoil European blend and have since not had issues with flash off or consumption of oil. I know in the case of Amsoil, [it resists Heat, which in turn reduces oil consumption and emissions. AMSOIL produces their motor oils to be thermally stable with a strong resistance to high temperature volatility (burn-off). They are also heavily fortified with detergent and dispersant additives designed to prevent sludge deposits and keep engines clean. Low volatility and clean operation reduce oil consumption and emissions]. The 5w-40 for example, [offers excellent oxidation stability, heat resistance and detergency properties that keep engines clean. It is specially designed to prevent sludge and varnish deposits for reduced oil consumption, extended engine life and maximum overall performance]. (Retrieved from Amsoil through synpsg.com on 07/25/2009) I distribute Amsoil and Mobil1. I recommend Mobil1 to my Porsche customers simply because it is a good product and it is Porsche's recommended oil. Based on my industry knowledge, I use Amsoil. Not sure about Castol, but Amsoil is not an approved Porsche oil. According to industry standard tests however, it is one of the best and generally performs better than Mobil1. There is lots of data out there on oil performance... A bit of history on US synthetics...Amsoil developed and marketed the first synthetic oil for automotive use in 1972; Mobil1 followed in 1976. Amsoil has remained small and manufacturers in the US with distribution points in Puerto Rico and Canada. Mobil1 has obviously developed commercially with a global footprint for mfg and distribution. Keep us posted. All the best, Bill :beer:

Michael, Have you got your Cayenne to your mechanic or a dealer? Sounds like a CV joint to me. Interested to know the outcome of the repair. All the best, Bill :beer:

Well…finally got to the brakes today. I bought parts for the front and rear based on RFM’s comments about the rear pads at 48K too. Sure enough, I had one sensor worn through in the rear and one in the front (I drove another 200-300 miles after the brake pad workshop indicator came on). The one rear one was really worn through. I’ve always been an OEM guy…but for my ’06 Cayenne I went with the Hawk dustless pads. It is a beautiful vehicle and I just hate how quick the wheels get dusty. It’s a SoCal Cayenne, so I keep it washed weekly and always looking good. Anyway, I hate dirty wheels. I’ll give these pads a shot. I heard a few good comments from posting’s here. Here’s what I went with: HB512Z.605 – Hawk Dustless Pads – Front (330mm rotor) HB502Z.606 – Hake Dustless Pads – Rear (330mm rotor) Total: $253.73 with tax and shipping Jeff at Sunset set me up with the sensors and brake Hardware: (2) 955-612-365-00 – Brake Wear Sensors at $11.50ea or $23.00 set (2) 955-612-365-30 – Brake Wear Sensors at $11.50ea or $23.00 set (2) 955-351-959-00 – Front Caliper hardware kit (kitted as pair) $33.82 (2) 955-352-960-00 – Rear Caliper hardware kit (kitted as pair) $21.64 Total price for front and rear brakes (no rotors) $364.19…not too bad for two hours of work on a Saturday morning. I found the calipers exceptionally easy to work with. I have the right tools for most jobs, which makes this kind of DIY fairly easy. I had no trouble removing the pins or anything for that matter. It was surprisingly quick. Seemed easier than my Boxster…the biggest hassle was removing each wheel (20's are heavy). Started it up…no more brake pad workshop error. Took it for a twenty minute spin to seat the pads…not a sound, squeal, or anything. I used synthetic brake pad grease on the backs of the rear pads. The fronts came with this really cool high performance orange looking grease, so I used that. Not a sound. The brake job is a very easy DIY. All the best, Bill :beer:

Our '08 S gets 16-18...we love the SUV. My wife has put her claim on this vehicle, so I typically don't get to drive it. My daily driver is my Boxster. Our '06 gets typically the same in mileage with the V6. I have turbo pipes on it and it sounds awesome! We also have 20" wheels...it's not the price of gas that gets me, it's the price of the tires! I run hard when we drive and we've also done some off-road events. I love to run the gears in tiptronic and just listen to the engine. Even with the under power of the V6, it's a blast to drive and typically the vehicle we use for family outings. The Cayenne is a great vehicle. I've driven many SUV's and wouldn't own another one. Quick story...when the first V8 came to Pioneer Porsche in Olive Green Metallic with the Savanna/Sand Beige full leather, I had to have it. I loaded up my kids and we went down and the entire family obviously loved the vehicle. I traded in our '06. Within a few days I has serious remorse that my treasured '06 was traded in. I call Matt at Pioneer and asked him the status of my vehicle. At the time they had changed the front brakes and done a few things to certify it as a used vehicle. I loved that vehicle so much that I took the loss, paid the additional money the dealer had put into the Cayenne to certify it, and brought it home. I have absolutely no need for two SUV's. They are such a great and practical vehicle, that we now own two. Maintenance is easy...I'm in the synthetic oil business, so I do all my own oil service/filters even though I have lifetime oil service on both Cayenne's through Pioneer in San Diego. We've had no issues with the vehicles. I change the oil on both at 10K. I've done the oil sampling through Blackstone laboratories to ensure the intervals are correct. My '06 Cayenne got front brakes at the dealer when it was used certified...it now has 48K I now need to replace the brakes again. Pretty darn good. I do use my tiptronic through the mountains and in stop and go traffic. It's just fun to drive...correction: They're fun to drive! I'd buy the Cayenne in a minute. There is not another SUV I would even consider. All the best, Bill :beer:

Sunset has been great to work with. They support the site and provide fast bids/order intake, and shipping that meet the needs for DIY for my Porsche's. I work with Jeff...great guy. I ordered brake parts for my '06 Cayenne on Tuesday and had them yesterday...I did decide to go with Hawk dustless brake pads this round (wheels are way too nice to be dusty all the time). Still waiting for those or I would be doing my brakes today. All the best, Bill :beer:

Happy 4th! Driving home from fireworks this evening we got a "Brake Pads Workshop (!) fault. Our '06 Cayenne as 48,200 miles on it. Front pads were replaced at 20K. Rear pads are from the factory. I'm assuming this error is letting me know that I need to replace the front, rear, or both sets of pads? I've just never seen this error or recall it before. Appreciate the help. All the best, Bill :beer:

Amsoil has done extensive studies on Gear Oil and the attached link to the Amsoil white paper is certainly worthy of review: http://www.synpsg.com/uploads/g2457_Gear_Lube_Whitepaper.pdf The summary of Gear Oils is provided on Page 19 and published for all manufacturers to see (take a look at Royal Purple and Lucas...ouch!). Mobil1 is the second best performing gear lube according to a summary of industry recognized tests provided (Amsoil finished nearly twice as best as the second place gear lube). Amsoil is not on the approved Porsche list and I recommend that you research data to make your best decision in regard to lubricants. I have used only 5W-40 European Blend in each of my Porsche's since the first oil changes. I've done all the testing through Oil Analyzers and Blackstone Laboratories with both Mobil1 and Amsoil. The results are very differentiated and thus has created a performance bias with me to use Amsoil. I use Amsoil SVG in my Boxster transmission and the differentials in both Cayennes. While I consider myself a lubrication SME, just about everyone is and has a strong opinion. I suggest everyone make their best decision based on the data available. There are several excellent lubricants on the market. Some people have not looked fondly on the Amsoil business model. It is solid, as are there products. For those who continually discount Amsoil products, Amsoil brought the first approved Synthetic oil to the US market for automotive use in 1972. Mobil1 followed in 1976. Amsoil has stayed true to their business model, product quality, and dealers. Mobil1, which has an excellent product, is commercialized to a much great extend than Amsoil will ever be. All the best, Bill :beer:

Thank you very much for the well wishes! I see you're from SoCal...what part? All the best, Bill :beer:

Thanks again Tony! Car is running great! I run 60 miles each way to my office and back over a famous highway for motorcycle and automotive enthusiasts called the Ortega Highway. Nothing better than transversing that road in the Boxster. All the best, Bill :beer:

Great news! First off, thanks for the great posts. This morning my dealership opened and had the first chance to look at my car since it was dropped off the back of the flatbed. At 8:30am, I received a call from the service manager at my local dealership (after he went through my litany of v-mails)…and what a relief it was. I was told the AOS has gone bad and nothing catastrophic has occurred to my vehicle regardless of how bad it seemed. I was actually reassured not to worry. Not a problem… My car was done and ready to go by 1pm today. I’m told after they ran it to burn off the excess oil; it’s running as strong as ever. This visit is worth all of the $400 and some change that my dealer is charging me. As a matter of fact, I’m heading up to BevMo right now to pick up my service manager a nice bottle of Cab for taking such good care of my car. The repair price evening included all nine (9) quarts of oil I lost and a filter too. What a bargain. I wasn’t available to pick up my car earlier. I’ll be there when the dealership opens at 7:30am. I can’t wait! While I don’t mind driving the ’06 Cayenne, there is nothing like my Boxster (and of course my wife doesn’t let me drive the Cayenne S – her Porsche). Not bad…146,000 miles and this is the first engine related repair I’ve ever had. Still the best car I’ve ever owned… Thanks again for the positive posts and hope I hadn’t lost the engine. All the best, Bill :beer:

HUGE Richard. I'm hopeful this is the issue. Thanks very much! Bill

Thanks! I really hope this is the issue. I have my car at the dealership about an hour away from my home. I'll let them take a look at it and depending on the repair cost, this may be something I'll tackle. I slept a little better last night knowing I may not have blown the engine. The last time this occurred when I was driving was when I was 18 or 19 years old ( a long time ago)...I had a bug with a 2276 and dual 48 IDA's...same situation, but the top of the #3 piston had a huge hole in it when I tore the engine down. Back then working on the engine was a little easier...disconnect the electrical, put a screw in the gas line, and undo the four 17mm bolts and drop it on to a skateboard. Good to go! I really haven't messed with the Boxster engine other than the air filter and oil changes. That's all it's ever needed. I've had other minor issues, but never the engine. The drive belt is incredibly easy. We'll see...if I end up doing the work myself, I'll definitely contact Shiman. Appreciate it. All the best, Bill

Really great input. Thanks. I would most likely look into option 3 if my engine is not repairable. I continue to hear about Raby - I need to check into these engines. I think option 1 is out for me. I'll post an update when I hear back from the dealer on Monday. Thanks again! Bill

This certainly gives me hope! I thought for sure the engine had to be gone (maybe not). Sorry to hear you had a bad experience when your car had an issue similar to this. It's unfortunate not all auto businesses have the ethics to do their due diligence. Places like that shouldn't be in business. I will call the dealer and recommend they check the AOS first. I have a really good dealer and I'm sure they'll do their best to get me back on the road. I do all my regular maintenance DIY...had I thought for a moment the engine was salvageable with something I could repair, I would have had the car towed to my home. I actually had no knocks or any loud sounds...just billows of smoke and my car died. Thanks very much! Keep you posted. Bill :cheers:

Well...I drove to my office this morning and on the way home my '03 started to idle a little rough. I started up the one lane highway home and felt some hesitation through the gears. I glanced back and noticed smoke (no idiot lights lighted on the dash). Within seconds after that a huge ball of smoke that limited visibility on the road. I'm honestly thankful that I didn't cause an accident due to limited visibility. Anyway, it was apparent this was not the morning I had expected and to add to that, I could just feel the $$$$$. Within a few minutes three fire trucks and an ambulance passed me. I thought a bad accident had occurred up the highway...no, someone had called in a car on fire and they were looking for me! The California Highway Patrol showed up moments later and stayed until my treasured Boxster was up on the flat bed and safely on its way to the dealer. As I waited for AAA, I did check the coolant to see if I had blown a head gasket. Coolant level was fine. I pulled my oil dipstick...ut oh. All my oil went out in the smoke cloud. No indication of any oil at the bottom of the engine. I checked that once it was on the flatbed trailer. In lieu of having the car dropped at my home, I had it sent to the dealer. This is obviously going to cost me an engine. This is the very first time I've ever had any, and I mean any, engine related issue. All I've done is regular maintenance. Drive belt at 60K and 120K. Nothing else...I've never even had the check engine light come on. I'm still driving with the original clutch (and yes, I drive it hard through the mountains and in the LA stop and go traffic each and every day). This has truly been the best and most reliable car I've ever owned. Now that the vehicle is at the dealer, any thoughts on what a refurb engine or a rebuild is going to cost me? The car is too great of a car not to replace the engine. There is not a door ding or anything on the vehicle. The interior still looks like new. I'm bummed. Appreciate any input on engine options. Bill