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03BoxsterS started following 987-1/987C1 (Boxster/Cayman) - DIY Tutorials - Discussion, 987-2 (Boxster/Cayman) - DIY Tutorials - Discussion, Cayman, Cayman S, Cayman R (987C2) and and 1 other
Sorry for your loss. :o I've got an '03 Boxster S with about 23,000 miles; everything fine so far, but I'll be watching this thread. I know another fellow that had a failure around 40k miles......Keep us posted. What can you tell us about how the car was driven or maintained?
Andy_M, this is an absolutely great writeup - thanks for doing this. And thanks to EddyH for asking a question, which made this thread show up in the "New Posts" area, allowing me to view it. I had done some searches on Boxster stereo mods, but hadn't found this one. I have a 2003 Boxster S, CDR23, upgraded Bose system with amp in the boot, dash speakers, door speakers, and rear speakers. My major complaint is the bass is unfocused, muddy, fuzzy, boomy, etc. You get the idea. Andy, I have a question. I have asked multiple installers about modifying my stereo system. All of them tell me, because of the MOST system, I have to replace EVERYTHING - head unit, amp, speakers - I can't do incremental or gradual upgrades. Can you comment on this? It appears you have made a major improvement just by replacing the speakers - are you still happy with the result, or have you since upgraded your head unit and amp? Thanks again, great writeup.
I have an 03 Boxster S as well, recently purchased the Hawk Performance HB290F.583 (rear) and HB550.634 (front) pads. Mine's a daily driver plus about 7 track events per year. I have not put them on my Boxster yet, but did put a set on my Infiniti G35, and really like the performance. Low dust, no noise, good performance. But won't test them on the track until next spring. I've never had ceramic but they might be a bit extreme for everyday driving.
I have one in my 2003 Toyota 4Runner that works great and I love it. The one in my wife's 2005 Infiniti G35x is a piece of crap, works terrible. So I conclude that it is completely dependent on the quality of the manufacturer. My Boxster has the old style manual mirror, which can't be beat in terms of price and reliability. I wouldn't buy an auto-dimming mirror unless I had tested it myself in a previous vehicle.
That looks absolutely great, don't be a chicken next time someone rams your car into a light pole. I've always thought if I got a hardtop for my boxster, I would paint it flat black - to match the fabric top. Check out the RUF CTR3 in flat matte gray in the Dec 2008 issue of Excellence if you don't think flat paint looks good - it will change your mind. Kevin
I've got an '03 Boxster S and went thru the same thing, thinking when I removed the battery for storage my radio code would be lost. Talked to the dealer about it while picking up some parts, and they actually spent 30 minutes messing around with it (it was a slow day for them I guess) before they figured out there was no code. The radio has a way of recognizing what car it's in, so doesn't need a code.
I've imported 4 cars from the US to Canada, including my Boxster S in April 2006, never had a problem with any of them. It's a fairly simple process, just have to fill out a few forms and get out the wallet. There is a much wider selection of good used cars in the states, at lower prices. And if you get the right customs agent, sometimes you can avoid the import duty as I did on my wife's Infiniti. They asked where it was manufactured, and I replied I wasn't sure. The agent went out to the car, couldn't find any stickers indicating country of manufacture, decided it was built in North America and didn't charge duty. They didn't realize you could determine the country of origin from the VIN number, or they were to lazy to look it up. Good for you for bringing up the car, Zedex, and shame on those dealers. Enjoy the new car.
I have a V1 and I think it's a great little unit, like the arrows as well. The major complaint I have is the number of false alarms. If I were to replace this one, I would try the Escort, as I hear the gps technology works well to eliminate the false alarms.
Two turns on the white plastic ball cup did it, Maurice. Thanks very much for your detailed directions and also adding a lot of "why this works" explanations. The top can now be latched with one hand as per the design. There is still a little gap on the drivers side, so I may eventually mess around with the tension rope, but at this point it is splitting hairs. Thanks again, 03BoxsterS
Hi Maurice I have the same issue with one side of my top, and I've lengthened the pushrod as far as it will go. Still have 1/2" to 3/4" gap on drivers side, just enough that I have to hold the roof down with one hand while latching with the other. So I want to lengthen the tension rope on the drivers side......I can find it in the parts drawing, but can't find it on the car. Do I need to remove the inside liner to access the tension rope? What position should the top be in to get best access? Thanks 03BoxsterS
Go get your money back, pronto. Since they outright lied to you, you've got a pretty good case. But you're gonna need replacements, so you'll have to think this through. One possibility - call them and tell them you are returning the tires because they misrepresented the age. Once they agree to take them back, go to a reputable tire dealer and get new tires. Deliver the old ones to the crook- ...uh... I mean creative tire dealer, and get your money back. Good luck.
Welcome to Renntech and good luck with your trip. Word to the wise, don't expect AAA to bail you out if you have trouble; they basically work within your city limits. I tried to use them once on a cross country trip and found out the hard way they offered absolutely zero outside my city limits. You should call them and confirm what services they will provide, and where. The other thing I would do is take a list of PCA contact lists for the zones you will be driving through (assuming you are a member). PCA members can be a real lifeline when looking for repair shops or assistance in unfamiliar areas. Best of luck.
Just to follow up.......I have discussed this with multiple intelligent people that understand clutches and flywheels, and concluded that I most likely did not need the flywheel. Positives are I have a new clutch and flywheel that work great, as well as a used flywheel that can be put back in another car at some point.:clapping: Negatives are I paid about twice what I should have.:censored: How did this happen? I think it boils down to how the mechanics working in the shops are compensated. I think more independent shops, at least in my area, are compensating their mechanics via commissions, which accounts for the aggressive behavior I encountered when looking for help. I would be interested in comments from other members regarding if they are seeing the same thing, and how to deal with it. I'm not in a position to work on my car myself every time I need work done, which means I will need to continue to take it somewhere. Comments? 03BoxsterS