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Bill_SoCal

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Everything posted by Bill_SoCal

  1. Would creating a bridge for the Clutch interlock switch simulate this same scenario? I have read other posts that come back to the ignition switch...this issue was the same issue I had prior to replacing the ignition housing and electrical portion...I simply transferred my cylinder lock to the new assembly. Appreciate the input. Bill :beer:
  2. Good morning, Help! :help: I have reviewed many posts on this subject, however, I have not seen a follow up post for closure…just troubleshooting stuff. I hope someone on the forum can steer me in the right direction. Issue: In the morning (and only in the morning at initial start up) I turn the key to the start position and get nothing. Not even solenoid engagement. I then turn the key to off and try it again…the starter will engage on the second or third time, the car fires right up, and I have no further issues for the remainder of the day. This has been going on for a few weeks now. :cursing: Potential root cause issues addressed since the issue started: • Battery replaced (this seemed to help for a few days) • Ignition replaced with updated assembly (mechanical/electrical) • Clutch interlock switch replaced (piston portion) 2003 Boxster 140,000 miles Daily driver Any ideas of what direction I need to go next? I suppose I should go to the dealer for an electrical load test for the alternator. I wanted to ensure I wasn’t missing anything else before doing this. Appreciate the help. B) Bill
  3. Please don't PM Moderators or Admins unless it is a last resort - others will never see the reply and advice. One of the goals of the forum is to "share knowledge" ;) Thanks! Sorry Loren! Understood.
  4. That's a tough one...I have no idea. I might suggest you PM RFM and get his advice on what it might be.
  5. In my experience, this is normal. My Cayenne S will never shift into D6 when PSM is deactivated. Dennis, I don't think I've ever had PSM deactivated on one of the Cayenne's...I have with the Boxster. Why would you drive a Cayenne with PSM deactivated? I would think it's especially important with a SUV. Bill :beer:
  6. roxboxxx - You probably have not received any replies here because you posted this in the DIY forum in lieu of the Cayenne discussion forum. Is your '05 an 'S' or a V6? I've always wanted a turbo as well, but couldn't justify the additional price tag. If you current Cayenne has only 16K on the odometer, I would have a tough time trading it for a turbo with 42K. I love driving my V6 and the 'S' has more than enough power for me. Are the conditions of the interior/exterior on the vehicles similar? Where are you at in considering the trade? All the best, Bill :beer:
  7. Here is a relatively good schematic (picture) to identify at least where the major components on your engine (not sure if you have a turbo). (Click to Enlarge) 1. Intake Manifold 2. Air-injection pumps NOTE: Turbo Engine 3. VarioCam 4. Duplex timing chain 5. Intake camshaft 6. Exhaust camshaft 7. Valve 8. Piston 9. Spark plug 10. Exhaust manifold 11. Turbocharger NOTE: Turbo Only 12. Oil collector on turbocharger 13. Oil filter 14. Oil/collant heat exchanger 15. Air-conditioning compressor 16. Oil pump pick-up pipe 17. Water pump (obscured) 18. Ancillary drive belt 19. Throttle-valve tract (electronic throttle Credit for picture/information: www.panix.com/~clay/cayenne/cayenne-engine.jpg Bill :beer:
  8. It looks like you have a V8 and not a V6. Is the orientation of the picture looking aft? Bill
  9. And you would think that for $5500.00 the seller could at least spell Porsche correctly once... Bill :beer:
  10. I have a '06 Cayenne with over 42K on the speedo and a new '08 S (almost 8K now) that officially belongs to my wife. While my '06 is not an S, I have never had an issue with the vehicle. It's been a fantastic SUV. I have read the same problems you have with earlier model years, but I have been unaffected by any issues. I'm very pleased. I see '06 S models for $38-39K in the local area...I'm not sure if you'll get a titanium edition for $3-4K off the price...but it never hurts to try, that's for sure. Good luck. Bill :beer:
  11. The guys at Autopia are some of the best. You can check out their work here --> Autopia Click and Brag Detailers show off their work! Find one that's close to you, they come to your house and perform miracles! Honestly, I would leave it up to an expert. Well worth the money! I checked out Autopia...cool site for detaling. I've decided it's best to have someone out to the house that's an expert (because it's certainly not me). Appreciate the good info!
  12. Geoff, thanks for the great info. I had no idea that Mequiars held these classes in Irvine. I'm actually here in Irvine at my office today... I may end up paying someone to get the scratches out this time, however, I'm definitely signing up for one of the 7am to 3pm sessions at Mequiars. Much appreciated! Bill :beer:
  13. Awesome Alex! Thanks for the quick reply. I read on this product just now and this looks like it should work for me. I didn't even think of calling Meguiars. Thanks!! Bill :beer:
  14. I hope someone is able to give my some DIY advice for clear coat scratch repair. I have done searches in a few of the forums and just thought I would post new. Here's the deal...In November I went on a Cayenne Off-Road adventure with PCA SDR that was seriously off road through the deserts of East San Diego. I took branch marks on both sides of my '06 Cayenne, however, on my passenger side I have a few branch marks that go from the front bumper to rear bumper and are very light in nature. :soapbox: You can hardly tell unless looking for them. It's driving me nuts. I have tried to hand rub out several times. It seems to me that the clear coat has been damaged to the paint...but not the paint. I don't want swirl marks and I don't want to take it to a paint shop unless I absolutely must. Appreciate any advise on scratch remover suggestions...again, just to be clear, the paint is not scratched and it's not abrasive like it's been keyed...just the end of wooden branches grinding through me clear coat. :help: BTW - The outing was awesome...can't say it was necessarily worth the paint damage. Thanks for the help. Bill
  15. A good place to start would be to remove the inspection panel on the rear bulkhead, just behind the rear seats. That will give you a really good look at the serpentine belt, along with the water pump puller (lower left) and the power steering pulley (upper right). Regards, Maurice. the bearing in your water pump seized... the shaft on the water pump pully has sheared off.... your serpentine belt is flopping around.... fix it now ..maybe $500. let it overheat..... $5-10k plus yiu can get a water pump for $200 and a good indie can do the install..... I bought one just like yours ... bit the owner blew up the engine before pulling over...... Sounds ugly... Patelk - Any luck with the diagnosis? Have you pulled the rear firewall/bulkhead? Interested to hear what occurred...I think txhokie4life gave a good outline for you (unfortunately)...or hopefully you just lost the drive belt. Bill
  16. I have AXXIS for the rear and ESB for the front (or vis-versa) ... AXXIS only makes one pair that fits the S model. Low dust -- and while I have only had them on the Boxster for ~550 miles -- I have had AXXIS all around on other cars. M M - Not familiar with AXXIS...I replaced pads and rotors at 120K (OEM)...sure wish I could get a pad that was performance driven and low on brake dust...I'm with Lyn on that! You mention you have AXXIS all the way around on the other cars. Are they on a sports car or another car you drive like you stole? Bill B)
  17. :welcome: Andy, this doesn't look like wear to me...more like a defect inherent to the machining/mfg process. Just curious...how many miles on your gear box? All the best, Bill B)
  18. Jerry, I'm an Amsoil Dealer and a huge advocate of Amsoil. Having stated that, Amsoil is not on the Porsche approved oil list. While in the US you can use any oil that meets the mfg specifications due to the Magnuson-Moss Act enacted by Congress in 1975 to regulate written consumer warranties, I would recommend that you use Mobil1 or an approved oil. Synpsg (the company I'm affiliated with) sells Amsoil as it's primary oil and Mobil1 as well. These are the only two synthetics we deal in. I use Amsoil 5W-40 European blend in all three of my Porsche's and have since they were new...and I even get lifetime free oil changes at my dealer that I don't take advantage of. I believe in the product because of the industry recognized tests. When a Porsche owner calls our company for oil, I due recommend Mobil1 with an OEM filter. Amsoil will not stop leaking. If your oil leak stopped after adding Amsoil, that's an anomaly of sorts. It is very competitive lubricant with the same properties as Mobil1. Amsoil was the first synthetic oil approved for automotive use in 1972. Mobil1 came out in '76. There is a much history behind the development of synthetics. Both are excellent synthetics. Just be aware Amsoil is not approved by Porsche. I have done all the oil sampling between multiple Porsche engines and Mobil1/Amsoil. They are both excellent oils. The benefits of Amsoil synthetic lubes are many. Superior wear protection, increased horsepower, cooler running engines, reduced deposits, reduced oil consumption, resistance to oxidation and breakdown, easier winter starts - they all add up to less repairs and a better running, longer lasting engine. More importantly to most drivers today, synthetic oils can help improve fuel economy by reducing friction. Synthetic oils are the right choice for any motorist with a mechanically sound engine. All proven with data! (retrieved from www.synpsg.com/why synthetics, 02/18/2009) If you switched you '04 Honda from conventional oil to synthetic Amsoil, you would see an improvement in fuel economy either way due to less friction. This has been clearly proven. I always tell fellow Porsche owners to only stay with oils from the Porsche approved list, unless they've done their research and understand the data. All the best, Bill B)
  19. Appreciate the reply. I agree with you. It is great to provide the information so people can make their own educated decision. I'm definitely an advocate of research and consolidating information from multiple sources. Especially with the investment we all have in our toys...I mean cars. I will read the posts you've suggested. Thanks again. All the best, Bill B)
  20. Jim Pasha had a regular column in Excellence called the Tech Forum (Unfortunately, he passed away before the December 08 issue of Excellence came out). He covered a very broad range of technical topics – some model specific and some of interest to all Porsche owners. Regards, Maurice. Thanks Maurice. I'm sorry to hear of Jim's passing. I didn't know who he was. I appreciate the background. I need to pick up the December 08 issue of Excellence. I've never read it previously. All the best, Bill
  21. Okay...as much as I didn't want to jump in on another oil post, excuse my ignorance, but who is Jim Pasha? I don't know him. Has Porsche recognized fuel intrusion into the oil? Has anyone had their oil sampled to prove the dilution of fuel? Can those sampling results be posted as evidence to this problem? If not, I would quit saying it's an issue without adequate empirical data. Blackstone or Oil Analyzers can verify fuel dilution in their analysis. I've not seen an oil sampling or met a fellow Porsche owner who's experienced this issue. Bill B) What? First I've heard of that. The article by Jim Pasha in the December 08 issue of Excellence magazine discusses fuel intrusion, among other problem areas. Very informative and interesting read. Regards, Maurice.
  22. Thanks for the great post and pictures showing how you recovered from the overfill. I would have never imagined Kragen had a pump like that you could adapt to remove engine oil. Nice work! :cheers: Bill B)
  23. Not a total Noob question at all...I don't see your :censored: thermostat. Here is what you should be looking at as shown from Section 19-9 of the Bentley Manual: Click on the picture to enlarge your view. It looks as though you're running without a thermostat...the good news is you don't need the special Porsche tool to remove it. Unbelievable. Best of luck here. You may have found the root cause of your problem. :clapping: Bill B)
  24. Your 997 oil capacity with a filter change is 8.7 quarts, correct? The GT3 is 9.3 quarts I believe...not sure if I have the fill capacities correct. I'm going off memory. If you installed 8.25 Liters, you installed 8.72 quarts (just slightly above the capacity). If you were on ramps, and really out of level, you might have some oil left in the sump, but I wouldn't think enough to cause the situation you are having. I know you mentioned you may not have had the car warm enough when you did the oil change. Did you have it warmed up? Did you allow the oil to drain for at least 20 minutes? Over capacity would drive me crazy as I think it is you too. If you have a MB shop close to you, they can siphon a little out for you and I'm sure would probably do it complimentary knowing your circumstances. Good luck. Bill B)
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