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mikefocke

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Everything posted by mikefocke

  1. mikefocke
    So maybe you look in the owner's manual? Then look here for how to figure out what will fit
  2. mikefocke
    Can? Yes. Labor cost is probably double the cost of installing the 2.5. Find someone who has done it before. The control electronics are different and lots of other parts or adaptations will be required to do the 2.7. And if you do the 2.7, why not the 3.2 as the electronics mods for the 2 will be the same.
  3. mikefocke
    Keep in mind 70% of "MAF Problems" aren't the MAF
  4. mikefocke
    Here is the source of those seat mounts. http://www.bkauto.com/porsche/aftermarket.php
  5. mikefocke
    Cylinder wall distortion reference Here Read the buyers guide, Especially parts 2 through 4.
  6. mikefocke
    I'm 6" but my torso thinks I am 6' 6" When I sit next to my 6' 6" son, I'm every bit as tall. He is all legs, I'm all torso. Yes, I found more room and specifically head height in a 987. I was able to get comfortable in a twinkle in the 987. It takes some adjusting and not rocking the backrest back all the way and making the seat be down as far as it will go before my head will not strike the rollbar on my 986. I've been in a accident where my Boxster 986 was rear-ended and the careful seat position saved me a head bump. It does give up a bit of leg length room and thigh support to do it that way. When I drive 300 miles Sunday, I'll probably set the seat for more comfort on the highway at some point figuring that if any one hits me at 55-75, I'm probably done anyway. But for around town, it is a compromise.
  7. mikefocke
    Salvage Yards http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/listsofsources
  8. mikefocke
    Sure A list of useful maintenance links here includes what you want.
  9. mikefocke
    Remember how few 01 cars are still owned by the original owners. And things get lost in every transfer. I never had the card on either of my 2 Boxsters and I was the 3rd owner each time.
  10. mikefocke
    How you find your radio's serial number depends on the radio model. You can read the serial number of a CDR-220 by holding the TP button down until "Becker 1" displays, then scrolling using the right hand (tuning) knob until the serial number displays. For the CDR-210, turn the radio on and push the 8 and the last (0) preset button AT THE SAME TIME. Hold for 5 seconds. When the screen changes, hit the tuning toggle button down several times until it says serial then hit the center preset button under arrow on display and the serial number will display. If all else fails, you can get the code from Becker for $30. Use the battery maintainer through the cigarette lighter to keep power to the radio while the battery is disconnected. Or use the jumper post in the fuse box and a set of jumper cables to a 12 volt battery (even a lawn mower battery would do it). A '03 or '04 Boxster doesn't use the code system for radio theft security.
  11. mikefocke
    So I took my '01 S into HBL today for the Airbag/Seatbelt light symptom. Third time in as many years it has been there for this, fourth time in total the car has been in to a dealer for the same symptoms. 2 seat belts replaced and TSB 6924 applied before. So I went around back and talked to the service tech and asked him what he was finding. He said that Porsche has changed "what they want us to do" still again and that the fix they applied via the TSB last year had now been replaced with a new approach. I notice that the 2004 TSB # 6924 is marked "superseded" but there is no indication of what replaces it here in the TSB list when I search on "airbag". Anyone know what the TSB # is that replaces 6924? It is so wonderful to walk up to the paying counter and hear "no charge, we'll mail you the paperwork, car is out front".
  12. mikefocke
    Info On Buying A Boxster Here And I'd buy a well documented 01 S with at least 30k miles and do a PPI on it and a Carmax.
  13. mikefocke
    Here Instructions Here
  14. mikefocke
    You must be an awfully experienced racer for wheel weight to matter. I guess what I'm implying is that so many people focus on the equipment when it is the driving skill they should be focused on. Once you have gotten everything there is out of the equipment you have, then you change equipment to create a new challenge. If a given turn can be driven at 45 and you are driving it at 38, the fix is to learn the corner, not try to throw equipment at it. Because if you improved your speed by improving your equipment, you'd still have improvement the driver needed. Good luck, have fun.
  15. mikefocke
    Sure http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/hacks and look for daytime running lights
  16. mikefocke
    Its your car, your cash, make your own judgment. I like the zeintec but not at that price. I can live with the canvas top, the lined canvas top or the glass window canvas top for that kind of $$$$
  17. mikefocke
    So clean the MAF, what have you to lose? http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/checkeng...ssairflowsensor
  18. mikefocke
    I presume you know all the differences between the 04 S and the 550SE. If not, they are listed here http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/modelyeardifferences The 550 was about as loaded as you could get. Pluses and minuses to that. More toys, more things to go wrong. Will you notice 8 HP (3%) (only available in the upper RPM ranges) in normal driving, heck no. The sports suspension and wider track? Yes, you could notice that and it might be a negative because of the ultra low profile tires if you have rough roads where you are. On the track? Not unless you are a heck of a driver. The base is better than 90% of the drivers driving them, the S is too.
  19. mikefocke
    Each side has 2 sensors, one on the pre-cat and one before the main cat. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/oxygensensors has pictures of both stock and after market headers side by side
  20. mikefocke
    I'm always amazed that so many people think they know more than the OEM engineers. My bet is Porsche engineers taking into consideration the way many of its cars are driven (Auto-X, track, twisties, tail of dragon, etc). If you were to ignore Porsche's warning to install longer bolts and only use the car for tooling around town showing off your new wheels, you'd be fine. But stress the things over a long track day and you could be in trouble. Or put a super stress on them in an emergency situation and you could be in trouble. Porsche engineers to prevent that, is my guess. Think of the longer bolts as a way of getting new shiny bolts that help show off those new wheels and be safe. Or take your chances with advice that contradicts that of the OEM. Your choice.
  21. mikefocke
    Some formulas and pictures Here
  22. mikefocke
    Without spending some significant $ on intake, ECU, headers, cats and exhaust, I doubt you will feel the difference any one component "upgrade" makes. And by the time you have made enough changes to really affect the power, you are in the "bigger engine transplant" range of expense. Further thoughts are at http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/itisn%27tfastenough and, though they relate to the 986, the engines are so similar they should apply to the 987 as well.
  23. mikefocke
    Are you sure you are holding the trunk lock release button down long enough. It takes about 2-3 seconds to work. I know I made the mistake of thinking it was like the buttons for all my other cars until someone pointed out to me the difference by design. It ios mentioned in the Owner's Manual but is easy to overlook.
  24. mikefocke
    Get it towed (flatbed by someone who knows how to flatbed a Porsche) and don't drive it. Page 231 Owner's Manual Blinking CEL said stop right now. Page 79 Owner's Manual You have serious troubles and you need a serious Porsche mechanic. Maybe spend some time reading any warranty you got with the car as a car lasting 3 hours sounds kind of suspicious.
  25. mikefocke
    A waste of $ IMHO What are you trying to accomplish and how many mods are you willing to spend for to get there? You want power: increase air intake efficiency, optimize air/fuel mixture (chip), improve exhaust scavenging (headers+cats+mufflers). Doing only one is generally a waste of $. Doing them all gets you somewhere but costs big $$$$. The $ per HP gained is outta sight. Buy an S instead may be the more effective answer. Or buy a 2000 base with a blown engine and drop in a 3.4 from a 996 in a junkyard. My opinion
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