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Everything posted by zodman

  1. MAF is seated correctly, paying attention to the nubs where they connect, there is only one way it connects. Will run freeze data down again from a warm engine after rechecks of hoses etc.
  2. I'm reading a similar Matco manual for a different more current reader since I can't find the right one for this model...The test data on the above screen shots is most likely the data "when" the CEL was triggered...hence the "Freeze Frame" notation doesn't obviously match the real time moment when I was reading the data from the tool...I'll try to run the test again after giving the car some mild amnesia after I recheck that bloody AOS hose.
  3. I can't interpret the data from the "View Freeze Data", other than noticing a few irregularities, the car was warmed up, so it should have read around 180° not 64° - unless that is the ambient temp. I don't have a manual for that OBDII tester, nor can I find one online, even from the MATCO website themselves. The actual rpms at the time of this test wasn't 1400rpms, but more like 900rpms. When the CEL was triggered, the car was in first gear, somewhere in the 4000 rpm range after an initial warmup from a cold start. I recall a post where Loren notes the MAF doesn't start really working until y
  4. As always, thanks for this info. I'll fetch that piece within the next day or so after I've nailed down that P0102 issue.
  5. This image is a series of screen shots of the test I made while the vehicle was running...No electrical load was running. No other tests can be done on the reader that I can see. First screen was the test selected, next series of shots are the results...I improvised the scroll down by trimming the redundant data.
  6. My new battery has an oval vent, smack in the middle side of the top of the battery between the two posts. I had to gently squish the angled tube at the end of the clear plastic tubing to fit into the oval vent, but usually these vents are round and are located at the narrow ends of batteries at the top.
  7. (idle stabilizer)That's that older part on the 2.5L engines...This engine is the 3.2L S model from 2001(6Speed Manual Transmission). As for the throttle body itself, it was cleaned with the throttle body cleaner through and through. Last time it was cleaned was around 70k when the AOS was replaced. Sticks in the memory as I had broken the J-tube and had to order a replacement part for that. Now at 87k, it was still pretty clean but I gave it a solid cleaning and even replaced the gasket seal between the TB and the tube. 10 minutes out till CEL and 10 minutes back....20 minutes in all. If it w
  8. After clearing the codes, resetting the boots for the throttle body and the resonance tube, double checking all the vacuum hoses, finding the hose that connects the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the AOS to be slightly askew on the AOS side and then trying to reseat it as proper as I can...Then re-cleaning the MAF again...Then driving for about 10 minutes, the car was able to summon only one code... P0102 This time the high idle appeared to be gone, but the low idle overall appeared to be rougher than yesterday. Also, testing the presence of suction in the oil filler cap did make t
  9. Neighbor had a Matco MD9000a so I was able to retrieve 6 codes: P1126 P1133 P0102 P0507 P1128 P1130 P0102 points at the MAF, but it was cleaned. P0507 points to the idle Control System. As a whole, it appears to be pointing towards something in the air/fuel induction like a vacuum leak. I did button everything down as tight as tight can be...even throughout this process, bolts were torqued to the Bentley specs....yet obviously something isn't right. The AOS was replaced somewhere around 70k miles and the car is at 87k now. I didn't clean out the long tube that connects the AO
  10. The car was driven for an hour down HWY1 down to HWY84 to let all the settings sink into the car's computer since the previous battery was well past its life of service and could no longer hold a charge. Drive was perfect. Initial RPM's at idle were around 800-900. Temp never peeked past the 180° part. Cycled through the heating and cooling to make sure coolant had no air-pockets left in the system. Vented properly with the hinge in the 'up' position. I let the car cool down after I enjoyed a nice meal at Alice's Restaurant, and then took HWY 35 back to I-280...Just after I left the restauran
  11. Took me long enough....but the project is finally done, with a minimum of parts left orphaned :huh: Had mild panic attack at first starts before I traced the error to spark plug cables not fully mated. Also had some minor lifter noise that went away once the oil was carefully brought to balance...They may need to be addressed in the near future. Am now going on the first drive to give the computer time to relearn settings after the battery bit the dust after many years of unrelenting service....I even have the radio code at the ready. But all of that aside...I want to give a big thanks to a
  12. On the left side of image C & D in the picture referenced in the Pelican topic of replacing the Fuel Pump, there is a section of clear plastic tubing that disappears into the void of the area that contains the fuel tank. On my car, it was not connected to anything, and floating loose from the fuel tank area in the area where the battery resides. What is its purpose? Should it connect to anything or is its proper place to just float around the area where the battery sits? I don't think it sits down below like the Pelican image, as the tray for the battery would squash any fluid that would
  13. I should mention this is a "what if" scenario, if a spare battery wasn't around.
  14. I bought a Schumacher SE50 with the intention of charging the battery since it is way past time for a trickle charger. Can this device also unlock the front trunk using the fuse panel/door jam method if you don't have access to a spare battery?
  15. Finally received the right fluid for the Trans....Had the right smell too. I don't know what the other fluid was, but it sure didn't smell like this did... All that's left to do now is stick on the muffler, recharge the battery, finish topping off the coolant, pop on the rear suspension and the dressing.... And fix just one more thing.....The rear backup light switch was yanked off of its connectors by an over-eager assistant...It's a real easy fix, popping it back on so it'll be easily plugged back onto the Transmission. Trouble is, I don't know which wire is for which. I've got the two tab
  16. Thanks JFP, am about to do that...though a Home Despot is closer...I'll check there first.
  17. If ever I can mate the bloody transmission to the engine...Right now the tranny is still on the jack, and I can't drain the fluid until it's mated back to the engine. Trying to mate it to the engine as gently as possible has been the most difficult thing about this job. It should go in like 'buttah' but getting everything aligned properly so the pinion arrives at the cradle of the pilot bearing has been a bear. I just don't have the strength after the operation I had last January to do it by myself. The goal post is in sight...and now I get a charley horse at the five-yard line. I know it i
  18. What is the color of the Burmah stuff? And it's normal application in Porsche flavored vehicles is for tiptronics?
  19. All I know is that the fluid didn't seem right. As for "what" type of fluid it is...."non s manual fluid"/automatic tranny fluid/clutch fluid I don't know. What I do know was his response when I asked him to verify what he sent me: "I double checked and no it looks like we sent you the non S fluid. I can send out the S fluid today for you. Trying to follow the graphs for the fluid I must have jumped a line and sent standard Boxter fluid." If the T-fluids for Boxsters has changed since 2001, with the introduction of PDK, he may of meant that...I just don't know.
  20. I ordered transmission fluid from Sunset, and it arrived late Christmas Eve, and I put the fluid in the transmission while it was out of the car...It was Amber in color and thin, fairly clear. It didn't quite have that pungy aroma of transmission fluid. I sent off and email to the guy that handles my order thru Sunset, asking him to double check what he sent me and indeed he filled the bottles with a non S type of fluid, and he is sending me a new package of the correct fluid. Since the fluid is in the tranny now, once it is drained out through the plug at the bottom and the correct fluid p
  21. Since my car is the double row I didn't see any sense in downgrading to the pelican kit (spacer with the single bearing). Despite the "battle of the balls" about whose ball bearings were the best, I'm fairly certain LN has done their homework, so I went with their D.R. bearing.
  22. Thanks again, I peeked inside the flange and lo-and-behold...an o-ring already there. The one on the bolt must be a spare...any harm in installing it like the attached image from pelican? http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/images_large/Pic123.jpg
  23. Thanks, yes the bolt...There is a o-ring on it though. They just don't mention where that o-ring should be in the final lines of the documentation, just the use of the locker/sealants in case the o-ring fails. I suspect the o-ring is between the nut and the flange, but I thought I'd ask.
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