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Well I removed the lower bottom plug and the cam slot was at 7o'clock for three full clockwise rotations and never budged/moved. I'm assuming the engine is foicked. What would you do in this situation JFP? It's a 5-chain 3.2 986 engine with a double row LN upgrade.
No warnings, just driving down the freeway. Light kicked on flashing then loss of power. I limped it off the freeway for safety. Never had debris in oil filter from previous changes. Checked oil pan at 88K was clean. If the cam isn't moving I don't know if there's any hope to saving anything if it's an interference engine. Once those chains go you're foicked. What are JFP in PA's thoughts or Loren's? If I could get it up my inclined driveway into my garage, I'd consider swapping out the engine, but that is a problem as there isn't any way to get it inside.
Well I removed the lower bottom plug and the cam slot was at 7o'clock for three full clockwise rotations and never budged moved at all. I'm trying not to curl into a fetal position, or otherwise turn to drinking. I took good care of it over the years...Changed oil often, replaced the IMS, replaced the shocks, the clutch, the top, the aos, the maf...yada yada....then it gets a frikken heart attack and dies....And I just bought her new ignition coils and spark plugs for her birthday....sniff....
That's the lower one right behind the passenger seat correct? Would I need to drain oil first? And the third question, I read that the crank would move, but the cams wouldn't if it's trashed correct or wouldn't line up vertically once at TDC?
In reading a few other posts related to the P0343 code, there are a few that had suffered breaks in the camshaft chains/timing chains as being the causal agent(or horrid aftermath), a few others had the sensor at fault or the contacts leading to the sensor. Can I simply pull the green plugs on top and rotate the crankshaft to make sure the chains and the timing is still good? Would I need to drain the oil at all? Would the crankshaft move at all if the chain is broken?
Due to the fact I don't have special tool 9637, where would I find someone in the San Francisco Bay Area to loan me one to test? I can't find any online. If a broken wire is the culprit, could new ones of the same gauge be routed along the harness and rigged that way to the DME since replacing the harness would be a nightmare? If the Sensors are on both sides of the engine, if you clear the codes and swap the sensors out with each other, would that cause a different number error code, ruling out the wires being the fault but the sensor?
P0300 & P0343 are the two codes I have. P0300 Random Misfire P0343 Code (Camshaft position sensor A Circuit High Input. Bank 1 or single sensor) Fuel system 1 : CL Fuel system 2 : CL Calc Load 27.1% ECT 180F STFT B1 15.6% LTFT B1 2.3% STFT B2 15.6% LTFT B2 0.8% Eng RPM 3280 Vehicle speed 68mph So, replace 996-606-106-02 to remedy P0343? And P0300 would be an oxygen sensor before the cats or a cracked Ignition coil(s)?
There I was...just tooling down the road. One mile from my exit, cruising, no rush. Check Engine Light came on and flashed and kept flashing until I could safely get off the road, I could feel the engine falter but no loud noises. After turning off the engine, I have not tried to restart as of yet. I'm waiting to get a reader for the codes. I wish I had them for you. I replaced spark plugs and MAF at 90k but the coil packs are the ones that came with the car when I got it in 2005 at 47K miles as well as the oxygen sensors. While I was waiting for the tow truck driver to arrive, I did a cursory look over the engine and where I could see and feel, I couldn't see any vacuum lines misplaced or other signs of visual distress (as if) but the Y-tube wasn't solidly connected to the air/oil separator. There did not appear to be any signs of oil or sludge from the Y-tube or the air/oil separator. I don't think it would trigger a flashing CEL, but I know a loose gas cap can trigger a solid CEL. I'm leaning towards a coil pack failure as opposed to oxygen sensors. It's my opinion only that if an oxygen sensor was beginning to fail, I would have only a solid CEL rather than a Flashing CEL. Maybe the Y-tube and air/oil separator lost their connection enough to trigger the event, but something tells me that's wishful thinking. To get to my question, now that you read the details (thanks) I hope I didn't damage the engine/catalytic converters from the time it came on to the time it took me to safely get off the road, but in any event, would the weight of the flashing CEL be towards a failed coil pack or an oxygen sensor? I realize there maybe other factors, but I'm curious to hear your opinions from experience to assist me in evaluating the problem. Thanks in gratitude David
Posting this here for a future reference.... I recently had to replace my ignition switch (2001 boxster s), all of the data online shows the steps involved with working in a cramped position with one's head under the dash trying to get a tiny flat-tip screwdriver into position. That really brought out my claustrophobic demons for a dusting when I was trying to maneuver into position, even though I managed to achieve a really good back stretch. Yet I couldn't get the screws loose that were holding the switch in place. My ultimate solution: Removing the headlight switch assembly and the single screw supporting the heating duct against the backwall. It seems like more work, but it is really easy to do and it makes loosening the two screws holding the ignition switch in place a breeze to loosen from a more comfortable upright position. Hope someone benefits from this tip.
Hi all, Just leaving this as a reference file for others. I recently had an issue with a dead battery that led me to suspect the voltage regulator was the culprit. After testing the battery's ability to hold a charge, the alternator became the prime suspect. After finally freeing the alternator, I examined the voltage regulator to see it wasn't making a decent contact with the alternator spindle. It was ground down too far. Reason: Positive Battery post wasn't tightened down enough leading to the VR over-working itself. Alternator itself tests out ok. Note from the attached picture the faulty VR on the left and the new replacement VR on the right. New VR costs about $40 with shipping. z
That's where it will typically leak from for the IMS/RMS area...you just can't see the rest of it until the flywheel is removed to determine where the leak is. Sometimes even the case bolts will weep a bit.
I've seen costs vary from 3k to 5k, but also includes the ims bearing. Mine was pretty close to 3k but I also replaced and updated a few other things as well...A few "surprise - I'll need to be replaced" surprises were found along the way. With the help of the board here, I did all the work myself with my stepson spotting me upon occasion.
It may take a while, but as to how far I would not presume to know...I was never patient getting to the center of a tootsie roll pop either as a youngun. The biggest factor would be how much it is leaking. There have been quite a few generations of the seal, and on mine it was a second generation. Loved the 5th and Diner back in the day when I lived there in PHX. I used to live a block from there. Thanks on the quote...other than sculpting and art, I dabble a bit with anagrams.