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Everything posted by zodman

  1. Well I removed the lower bottom plug and the cam slot was at 7o'clock for three full clockwise rotations and never budged/moved. I'm assuming the engine is foicked. What would you do in this situation JFP? It's a 5-chain 3.2 986 engine with a double row LN upgrade.
  2. No warnings, just driving down the freeway. Light kicked on flashing then loss of power. I limped it off the freeway for safety. Never had debris in oil filter from previous changes. Checked oil pan at 88K was clean. If the cam isn't moving I don't know if there's any hope to saving anything if it's an interference engine. Once those chains go you're foicked. What are JFP in PA's thoughts or Loren's? If I could get it up my inclined driveway into my garage, I'd consider swapping out the engine, but that is a problem as there isn't any way to get it inside.
  3. Well I removed the lower bottom plug and the cam slot was at 7o'clock for three full clockwise rotations and never budged moved at all. I'm trying not to curl into a fetal position, or otherwise turn to drinking. I took good care of it over the years...Changed oil often, replaced the IMS, replaced the shocks, the clutch, the top, the aos, the maf...yada yada....then it gets a frikken heart attack and dies....And I just bought her new ignition coils and spark plugs for her birthday....sniff....
  4. That's the lower one right behind the passenger seat correct? Would I need to drain oil first? And the third question, I read that the crank would move, but the cams wouldn't if it's trashed correct or wouldn't line up vertically once at TDC?
  5. In reading a few other posts related to the P0343 code, there are a few that had suffered breaks in the camshaft chains/timing chains as being the causal agent(or horrid aftermath), a few others had the sensor at fault or the contacts leading to the sensor. Can I simply pull the green plugs on top and rotate the crankshaft to make sure the chains and the timing is still good? Would I need to drain the oil at all? Would the crankshaft move at all if the chain is broken?
  6. And the camshaft sensor wires in question is on the passenger side leading to the DME correct?
  7. Due to the fact I don't have special tool 9637, where would I find someone in the San Francisco Bay Area to loan me one to test? I can't find any online. If a broken wire is the culprit, could new ones of the same gauge be routed along the harness and rigged that way to the DME since replacing the harness would be a nightmare? If the Sensors are on both sides of the engine, if you clear the codes and swap the sensors out with each other, would that cause a different number error code, ruling out the wires being the fault but the sensor?
  8. P0300 & P0343 are the two codes I have. P0300 Random Misfire P0343 Code (Camshaft position sensor A Circuit High Input. Bank 1 or single sensor) Fuel system 1 : CL Fuel system 2 : CL Calc Load 27.1% ECT 180F STFT B1 15.6% LTFT B1 2.3% STFT B2 15.6% LTFT B2 0.8% Eng RPM 3280 Vehicle speed 68mph So, replace 996-606-106-02 to remedy P0343? And P0300 would be an oxygen sensor before the cats or a cracked Ignition coil(s)?
  9. There I was...just tooling down the road. One mile from my exit, cruising, no rush. Check Engine Light came on and flashed and kept flashing until I could safely get off the road, I could feel the engine falter but no loud noises. After turning off the engine, I have not tried to restart as of yet. I'm waiting to get a reader for the codes. I wish I had them for you. I replaced spark plugs and MAF at 90k but the coil packs are the ones that came with the car when I got it in 2005 at 47K miles as well as the oxygen sensors. While I was waiting for the tow truck driver to arrive, I did a cursory look over the engine and where I could see and feel, I couldn't see any vacuum lines misplaced or other signs of visual distress (as if) but the Y-tube wasn't solidly connected to the air/oil separator. There did not appear to be any signs of oil or sludge from the Y-tube or the air/oil separator. I don't think it would trigger a flashing CEL, but I know a loose gas cap can trigger a solid CEL. I'm leaning towards a coil pack failure as opposed to oxygen sensors. It's my opinion only that if an oxygen sensor was beginning to fail, I would have only a solid CEL rather than a Flashing CEL. Maybe the Y-tube and air/oil separator lost their connection enough to trigger the event, but something tells me that's wishful thinking. To get to my question, now that you read the details (thanks) I hope I didn't damage the engine/catalytic converters from the time it came on to the time it took me to safely get off the road, but in any event, would the weight of the flashing CEL be towards a failed coil pack or an oxygen sensor? I realize there maybe other factors, but I'm curious to hear your opinions from experience to assist me in evaluating the problem. Thanks in gratitude David
  10. My 2001 S had the dual row bearing. It was solid. Great shape and condition. I still replaced it since I was in there. JFP in PA was awesome as a wingman for me and many others.
  11. Posting this here for a future reference.... I recently had to replace my ignition switch (2001 boxster s), all of the data online shows the steps involved with working in a cramped position with one's head under the dash trying to get a tiny flat-tip screwdriver into position. That really brought out my claustrophobic demons for a dusting when I was trying to maneuver into position, even though I managed to achieve a really good back stretch. Yet I couldn't get the screws loose that were holding the switch in place. My ultimate solution: Removing the headlight switch assembly and the single screw supporting the heating duct against the backwall. It seems like more work, but it is really easy to do and it makes loosening the two screws holding the ignition switch in place a breeze to loosen from a more comfortable upright position. Hope someone benefits from this tip.
  12. Hi all, Just leaving this as a reference file for others. I recently had an issue with a dead battery that led me to suspect the voltage regulator was the culprit. After testing the battery's ability to hold a charge, the alternator became the prime suspect. After finally freeing the alternator, I examined the voltage regulator to see it wasn't making a decent contact with the alternator spindle. It was ground down too far. Reason: Positive Battery post wasn't tightened down enough leading to the VR over-working itself. Alternator itself tests out ok. Note from the attached picture the faulty VR on the left and the new replacement VR on the right. New VR costs about $40 with shipping. z
  13. That's where it will typically leak from for the IMS/RMS area...you just can't see the rest of it until the flywheel is removed to determine where the leak is. Sometimes even the case bolts will weep a bit.
  14. I've seen costs vary from 3k to 5k, but also includes the ims bearing. Mine was pretty close to 3k but I also replaced and updated a few other things as well...A few "surprise - I'll need to be replaced" surprises were found along the way. With the help of the board here, I did all the work myself with my stepson spotting me upon occasion.
  15. It may take a while, but as to how far I would not presume to know...I was never patient getting to the center of a tootsie roll pop either as a youngun. The biggest factor would be how much it is leaking. There have been quite a few generations of the seal, and on mine it was a second generation. Loved the 5th and Diner back in the day when I lived there in PHX. I used to live a block from there. Thanks on the quote...other than sculpting and art, I dabble a bit with anagrams.
  16. With contraction and expansion, there is a risk of seals rupturing. Quite possible your car had less stress on the engine during the freeze with lower fluids, but at the same time the "lower" spots on the engine may have had more content in them, as ice rises, places for the non-freezing liquid may not have had much more room to travel(imagine a ballon inflating in a box), but my thoughts where also on the other places coolant travels. If for example, the impeller blades on the water pump broke, and blocked passages to the engine, hot spots could have baked portions of an engine enough to encourage a valve spring failure. I don't recall what the proportion is of oil/coolant but I do remember that my Father taught me that an engine is more dependent on coolant keeping it cool instead of oil. Lower the coolant enough, and a cooked engine is served for dessert. If you do recover the engine/car, make sure you replace the water pump, and if it's blades are broken, back flush the whole system and replace the oil cooler (and it's seals) as well. I truly hope you find a workable solution.
  17. The main thing is that you risk damaging your flywheel. It's an expensive part. Mine no longer had the free play in it. When oil contaminates the dual mass flywheel, severely enough, you'll be unable to shift. Depending on the traffic conditions at the moment it happens, it could get spooky. If it has never been replaced, 100k is a good time to replace a flywheel and a pressure plate along with the throw-out bearing.
  18. I don't know what type of coolant you used but some types of coolant will turn the rest of the coolant into a gel that will clog many passages. That might account for why the temp climbed fast. The plastic tank can be easily replaced, and the proper coolant re-added for a small reasonable cost if you had stopped and towed it home or to a repair shop, but I know that's little consolation now. With 70% water and freezing conditions, plus the unknown coolant type, it is real hard to say whether it is salvageable...ice and gel throughout the coolant paths makes for some tough math. The towing companies make their sweet cream from situations like yours....to them it's just a scrap metal find with extra goodies on the inside...made even sweeter when the owner arrives to pay. Later they may even try to attach liens via your local DMV. These guys don't even care if your car was stolen - sometimes even sitting on the car for days before notifying an owner. I don't know how much leg you have to stand on to fight them on the towing/storage, but I can guarantee by the time the fight is over they'll still be ahead. Bailing the car out now, the engine may be rebuilt, but it will need to be inspected, as well as the passageways for the coolant. Depending on the type and year, they can take up to 6 gallons of Porsche coolant and Distilled water in an exact 50/50 mix. I don't have the confidence knowing what 70% water does in the wind chilled prairies of a Wyoming winter. I don't have any $ estimates to throw at you, just sharing what I know from dealing with trying to recover stolen cars and winter conditions from the days I lived in cold climates. I hate to say it, but if you've got $4,300 at hand, I'd put it towards a newer used boxster. But this is only one mans opinion without seeing the car.
  19. There could have been books or even software from Amazon in that package the UPS driver mistakenly picked up...It could have been medication as well...Didn't have to be auto related. And if I had ordered from Sunset, the potential for the UPS driver to have a stroke on my doorstep trying to set down and pickup the same package would have had its own set of issues. Rest assured, Sunset has received quite a bit of my business as well. Where the ball was clearly dropped was with the FedEx and UPS drivers not knocking at all. Three people were here within earshot of the door the entire day. In a note of further Irony, where I went to the UPS distribution center to retrieve the wayward package, it is less than a quarter mile from where the part was shipped from to begin with.
  20. This maybe slightly OT... Sunset sent a track num to pick-up the transmission fluid they incorrectly sent to me....Yesterday I ordered the MAF from Pelican. The MAF was dropped off on the front porch by the FedEx driver today with nary a knock or a ring on the door...The UPS driver later arrives with nary a knock or a ring on the door... I guess you can guess what happened next even without any Idle Speculation...
  21. Guess I won't futz with it further then. Before your response I had bought a new gas cap (it needed replacing) at the dealer and indeed a P0102 event occurred shortly after that. Rpms were around 1100 at the event, and this time the freeze data showed a higher coolant temp...Ordered a new MAF from Pelican for a Friday delivery, 986.606.125.01 (replacing a 986.606.125.00) and I'll have to pay the piper next month. Till then really short trips and no where near 4k rpms.
  22. Look on the narrow side at the top where the positive post is for a small round hole. It won't stick "out" because it's an "Innie" http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/EverStart%20Maxx%2094R%20Battery%20Vent%20Hole.jpg
  23. Quick question for anyone that's had to futz with the P0102 code, I recall reading about an error code mystery that was solved after finding the gas cap had cracks in the rubber seal and after replacing the fuel cap the error code hadn't returned, but I can't relocate that post now to recall the error code in question, but I thought it may have been the P0102...Any thoughts on that...e.g., would a worn out rubber seal on the Gas cap trigger a P0102 event?
  24. Yeah, I know with some readers some codes get tripped and others are pending, but this device doesn't state pending events, and, after each code event the data is purged from the reader and the system so no pending event could have occurred (looking at it as cause and effect as a best guess). The other item of note is that the FD shows both events occurring when the car is motionless...Yet both times the triggers on the dashboard occur when the car is in motion. If the FD was operating correctly, it would have recorded the speed as well. Guess now is the time for some fermented wheat flavored water...
  25. Like a bad habit I'm back...I drove like I had a high deductible as I warmed up the engine, keeping the rpms under 3k, then I parked and turned off the engine for a few minutes as the CEL didn't trigger, then I started again and within a minute or two, with the engine still crispy hot I triggered a CEL while still under 3k rpms. P0102 code. I checked the freeze data and it showed virtually the exact same info as before except it showed the coolant temperature 5 degrees "cooler." That's pretty strange considering the previous result was a read "cold" engine and this was a "hot" engine. I cleared the code, and then I drove like I had a low deductible. No code thrown....yet. From the previous reply until the drive now, I rechecked and reseated that lower hose for the AOS that I was concerned about. It is now seated firmly after I took off the Oil hose for a bit more leverage and room. The upper Oil Hose was also inspected and reseated (it is also new), the MAF connection was also re-verifed as to being properly connected. So aside from reading and clearing codes, seeing how the freeze data is erroneous with this car I may have to either find someone with an unlimited Durametric here in the Bay Area that'll be kind enough to give me a read, or throw some more funds at things in the dark sometime next month.
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