zodman

The chunky monkey... :D Kidding aside, it was just the starter trying to ignite the engine. Just never had an issue like this pop up before. Trying to start it with the failed pump, the noise of the starter was only amplified. As a result of the mech repair though, I am now experiencing an odd readout of the gas gage. I didn't notice it until after I filled the gas tank. It now reads empty. I was driving on 280, and to my shock, for a second, thought I was driving 130mph...and getting passed by a prius :o then I noticed the instrument cluster is reading in kilometers... :P I assume that the mechanic, when he installed the fuel pump, caused the float to get hung up on a hose in the tank causing a false low level on the gauge. fun, fun, fun

Fuel Pump won the contest. So much for 20% of my gain on NCC. B)

Hi timbo, I ruled out IMS too. As stated earlier, no leaking fluids, and I suspected as much on the oil readout. Battery is fine fuses are fine relays are fine. Just doesn't ignite after turning over. I suspect the fuel pump, sending unit, or as wvicary suggested, the starter. I had the car towed to a mech in San Carlos, so I'll see what they come up with. San Carlos German Motor Works.

I can hear it turn over, but it fails to start. After second attempt the sound gets "chunky", not smooth.

Could this be a Idle Control Valve Issue? Also, I noticed that Sunset has changed their website...can't look up prices anymore there. Did something happen there? Back to the issue at hand, oil level is fine when I manually check it. All other fluids are fine. Nothing appears to be leaking. The long pause for the oil level read-out after a second attempt to start is probably normal, just never had the starting issue before. The chunky attempt to start reminds me of air-fuel issues, anyone ever had a problem like this solved by replacing or cleaning the Idle Control Valve?

No, no warning lights. No, no previous symptoms. 63k.

Hello All, My 2001S won't start. I hear the normal grind as it begins to start, but it gets chunky, and then dies. Not wanting to push it, I turn everything off, and remove the key. I wait a minute, and reinsert the key and wait for the oil readout, but it now takes a long time to give the readout (about 30 seconds). At this second readout it suddenly shows four bars low, as opposed to the one bar low when I first tried to start it. The second attempt to start is a little chunkier. But it doesn't start. Anyone experience this before or know the solution? On my way home today, all was fine. No warning lights, anything that would be a sign. Thanks for any input. David

As what's stated in the description, I'm looking for a foam seal template. (H x W x L) Anybody ever make one? Back at the beginning of May, I ordered the German top from GAHH. Of which I might add, they sold to me for the same price as the Robbins top. I thought I had ordered the right part numbers for the foam seals from Sunset, but they were the rubber seals for the b-pillar. As they were a special order, I haven't bothered to return them to Sunset, nor begun my top replacement due to other things happening in my life. To share...back in late May, my Father became very ill, so my Son and I drove from California, to Wyoming in my Boxster to see him for a week and a half. Was a nice little ride. When I was in Wyoming, I got a chance to give my Father a ride, top down, up to the base of the mountain in my hometown. I could tell he was pleased... Not too many Boxsters in Wyoming, as it did turn a lot of heads. I even got "pulled-over" just to hear "no ticket....I just wanted to see your car!" My Father's health returned, and my son and I went back to California, but at the end of July, he just simply passed away... Since then, I haven't had much desire to do much of anything other than the basics; eat, sleep, work, repeat as necessary. Anyways...to move on, I thought I'd finally tackle the top replacement, but I'm lacking a template for those seals. If anyone has the dimensions down can you post them for me? I can make them myself but I'm hesitant to begin till I have the size down right. Thanks, David

The DIY link is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry14800 Keep in mind the little "keeper - V" at the bottom of the knob requires a small flathead screwdriver and just a tiny upward poke to release the knob. Sunsetimports has good prices and they support this forum: http://www.sunsetimports.com/catalog.php Under the catalog for boxster it's filed under BODY ELECTRICAL>MOTORS, SWITCHES & RELAYS>HEADLAMP SWITCH The part number is: 99661353500 and sells for $64.74 + shipping

Hi ehung, I've experienced the exact same thing, and I was able to diagnose and fix. Before you pop the headlights out of the front of the car, try this: Turn your headlight switch to the on position one slow click at a time, then once you are at the "on" position, then give the switch a firm tap dead center with something solid. Another option is that once the switch is in the "on" position, then pull it straight out to the fog-light position. Then using the palm of your hand, hit the switch inward firmly. The lights should then come on, indicating a faulty headlight switch. Do a search here on the board for the DIY. David

Hi Gus, They have a different weave from each other, the Sonnendeck Canvas is more resistant to fading. The German canvas is also cut a little differently - I think it may have a slight edge over the other for inititial fit. Least that's what I hear from GAHH. Someone else probably knows more... david Sorry to read about your own top issues earlier...some people just don't have any respect.

An Update... Looks like they have re-added the Sonnendeck Canvas. When I inquired with them the other day via the "live support" feature on their website, I was told they weren't going to carry it any more. I guess they changed their minds...or something. They also lowered the price of the Sonnendeck Canvas to $959.00 from the previous amount of $975.00. The German Canvas is still at the same raised price mentioned above. I called them today via "phone" to see if they are in fact going to carry the Sonnendeck Canvas or if it is reduced in price for being discontinued, and I was told that they will continue to carry it. Hope that helps anyone that needs this info. david

(((((See updated thread below))))) GAHH has dropped the Sonnendeck Canvas and raised it's price for the German Canvas. Sonnendeck canvas was 975.00 (glass upgrade) Plastic window was also discontinued. German canvas was 1,067.00, now is 1,084.00 Robbins top is looking better all the time... z (((((See updated thread below)))))

Hi Martin, I did a google search for that website using one of the phrases I use before buying anything online: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=X...G=Google+Search Looks like there was a time Xenonmods was good about product and service, but after awhile it appears that ethic is MIA. Hope you are able to receive or recover. David

Update... Finally found the thread for getting to/replacing the headlight switch for those that need to know in the future: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry14800 duh...ac vent removal... Anyhow... Once the vent was off, I could test the switch. Low beams were still off. I give the switch a tiny whack and the low beams come on. Turn the switch off again, then on, Low beams are off again. 'nother whack and they are on again. I'd upload a pic but everytime I buy a camera my son borrows it and I never see it again...Good thing I never taught him how to drive a stick. :P The posts appear to have a bit of corrosion, and my contact cleaner is at work. So a wee bit of crest and an emory cloth will have to do for now...if that doesn't work until a new part comes in, guess I'll have to keep whackin it off :huh: ...err on. d

Howdy all once again, 2001 boxster s I guess I'm not immune to the flickering low beam troubles others have had with their litronics either. The first symptoms were of course, the flicker. Could coach the light by rotating the headlight switch, and/or hitting the high beams, but now of course, they won't ignite at all...Until last night... After reading various posts here and on the boards, I ruled out the ground, the lights (D2S 85123), and the connections in the front, as well as the fuses. (Both lights were being affected) So I began to look at the headlight switch area next to the ignition... I notice that there are two "star" screws located on the left side of the dash unit that makes up the heating/cooling vent and the Headlight Switch (H.S.), as well as a "mini-cover" to the imed. left of the H.S. - I don't know what the feature/option would be if it was there. After removing the two screws, and the mini-cover, I gently pulled on that section of the dash until I felt it disengage a tad, and then I pushed it back in place. I would like to remove that section, but of course I don't want to damage it either... Frustrated about what to do next, I thought I'd try the lights again, and lo-and-behold, the low-beams came on without a hitch. Multiple on-and-off checks showed no further problem with the low-beams... After I drove home, I was inspired enough to give the car a gentle wash... to be followed by a medium-to-high-spirited blow-dry B) :huh: Went to take 'er for the drive, and guess what...no low-beams. So, fellow 'sters is the culprit the ignition switch or the headlight switch on the dash? If the headlight switch on the dash should be checked first, is there any DIY on safely removing that portion of the dash so I can inspect that? If it's the ignition switch, I've already bookmarked that. Thanks for any input... David

Follow-up... I haven't ordered the top yet, nor found anyone wanting help with theirs for a combined effort/learning experience, but the desire to do it as a DIY project is still there. Just waiting for the right time. Wouldn't mind making it a video project either if it pans out in that direction for the benefit of others later on. BTW-the tape has held up pretty good despite the few rain storms I've run across. I also added some silicone at the bottom corner of the rip as an added measure inside and out. Inside is still nice and dry. I've got a few other questions I'll post to the board a little later on in the proper category, but for now, thanks again for the comments. david

Thanks for the info Maurice, that will be helpful... As to what "popped", it was just the plastic window. I usually open it up a bit and then step out of the car to make sure it will fold down properly, but I was in discomfort with my neck and I thought I had a little more room before I step out and make sure it folds down properly...obviously, it was too much. I had planned on getting a glass window conversion at some point, just not this soon. For right now, I have the window taped up inside and out at the crack point with several layers of clear packing tape. It's holding up pretty good for now. I made sure the drains were all working and of course, I don't want any moisture getting into and under the seats as I hadn't had time to seal the box underneath the drivers seat yet. As for E. It was a sad attempt at humour... Zahnrad Sechs = Sixth Gear Though I'm not sure if thats the exact translation. I probably will get the GAHH top, I just need to decide if it's a project I want to do, as it might take me a bit longer if I tackle it. Thanks again for your help. If anyone else is in the Bay Area and needs to do the same to theirs I would be glad to help just to see it done. David

First, the salutation....Howdy all! Love the board. Hard to find a question to post as it all appears to have been answered before... Second, the car and location...2001 Boxster S, 50k (SF Bay Area of California) Third, the cause: 41 degrees(f) + crik in the neck + 2 seconds on the button too long = opp$ Fourth, the questions: A. I will be replacing the top with a glass conversion, but am eager to know among whom has had this done, is the Robbins Glass Top as good as the GAHH Glass Top? I see about a three hundred dollar difference. B. Can the headliner be reused?...It does appear to be in very good shape. C. Will other parts not be included with a top purchase from either of these places but needed? i.e., cables, straps, foam? (I do see the need for the 3m double stick tape, but I can get that elsewhere.) D. Although I can find some detailed install instructions for a top here on the board, I am a bit concerned about doing it myself. If I do, would there be someone nearby who has done it or needs to do it to their Boxster for a collaborative effort? If not, how many true hours of labour is needed for a professional installer to do it right? E. Is the German word for Wheeeeeeeeee! = Zahnrad Sechs! ? Fifth, Love the Board. Zodman (aka David)

Greetings all! I'd like to add my two bits... I recently purchased a 2001 boxsterS, and about a week after, I noticed a antifreeze leak under both sides of the right rear wheel, then remembered my earlier research here on the board. Pulled the carpet up and sure enough, it was wetter and stickier than I was when I first drove a Porsche :clapping: Tip# 1. I figured that it might be a while before I get a replacement tank, but I didn't want to have the antifreeze slooshing around the trunk area, or leaking onto the ground, so I got a roll of paper towels and would place a few rolled up sheets on the floor under the styrofoam everyday to suck up the fluid until the new tank arrived. The paper towel trick worked very well, kept it contained and stopped the drips onto the ground. The new tank and cap arrived from Sunset (kudos to Loren for the link on this site) and I choose to do all from the top rather than lifting the car. After removing the carpet, styrofoam pads, opening the engine compartment, it all looked doable, but the hardest is that pesky hose on the engine side of the firewall...I just didn't have the room to grasp the hose clamp on either end. Tip#2. Then I noticed a round do-wicky (for lack of a proper description) attached to the passenger side of the engine area. It has three 10mm nuts and one 14mm ground nut, and one hose. After I removed that, I could easily reach the clamp closest to the firewall. Tip#3. After installing the new tank, I still had to reattach the hose in the engine area, so I used my hose clamp pliers and while outside of the car, I clamped the ring fully open. Then I was able to easily slip it onto the hose, place the hose onto the tank spigot, then slide and then release the clamp into a angle that I can easliy access the next time. ------------ The fracture points on my old tank appear in almost the same spots as the other ones I've seen here on this board, so my best guess is that the polymers become stressed and brittle with heat, pressure and time in these thinnest areas. Perhaps they need to change either the overall thickness in these stress points, or the types of polymers that they are using. When I first considered buying this model, I made sure that I felt the carpets for any fluids, and it was all dry, but I should of also lifted that corner to make sure it was dry too. It wouldn't of detered me from buying the car, but I could of used that info in negot. a slightly cheaper offer. ------------ I also want to thank all the users of this board, even though this is my first post, I've been lurking for weeks absorbing all the info like a brawny paper towel. I'm in the SF Bay Area, and I look forward to a WOCD someday. David