zodman

MAF is seated correctly, paying attention to the nubs where they connect, there is only one way it connects. Will run freeze data down again from a warm engine after rechecks of hoses etc.

I'm reading a similar Matco manual for a different more current reader since I can't find the right one for this model...The test data on the above screen shots is most likely the data "when" the CEL was triggered...hence the "Freeze Frame" notation doesn't obviously match the real time moment when I was reading the data from the tool...I'll try to run the test again after giving the car some mild amnesia after I recheck that bloody AOS hose.

I can't interpret the data from the "View Freeze Data", other than noticing a few irregularities, the car was warmed up, so it should have read around 180° not 64° - unless that is the ambient temp. I don't have a manual for that OBDII tester, nor can I find one online, even from the MATCO website themselves. The actual rpms at the time of this test wasn't 1400rpms, but more like 900rpms. When the CEL was triggered, the car was in first gear, somewhere in the 4000 rpm range after an initial warmup from a cold start. I recall a post where Loren notes the MAF doesn't start really working until you hit 4000+rpm.

I know there are 3 basic reads for the P0102, but a multitude of different causations depending on the situation. It *might* be possible I have two items that need to be replaced....The AOS I bought a couple of years ago may be butter side down toast and/or the MAF just decided to up and die. I bought the car in '06 with 47k and the car is now at 87k. A new updated MAF would not require an ECU flash.

However...Given that the AOS has maybe only 17k miles on it or less, it should be initially excluded. Since the MAF was working proper before my recent repair, I'd like to exclude it as well...but I can't rule it out either or either item.

Maybe the most likely scenario is a vacuum leak. Since the idle is affected by the AOS when the oil cap is pulled, I'd say that hose that connects the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the AOS may not be fully pressed onto the AOS. It was a bear to disconnect and a bear to reconnect...but the space to get to it is extremely limited due to the cables in the way and that metal tab that comes off of the fuel rail (For the ele. cable tie down). If I had my druthers, I'd replace that plastic hose with a rubber hose with a couple of clamps instead...even weave it around the back of the engine instead of across the engine. I just don't know if doing so would cause problems.

Since the MAF was cleaned & re-cleaned using the proper MAF cleaner, I am wondering "if" it is better to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and let the engine "see" the re-cleaned MAF that way, instead of simply clearing the CEL. Further, as a secondary test to rule out the MAF, is to let the car run for a bit without the MAF connected...I know these cars can run without the MAF, but what exactly should I be looking for/expecting after running it without the MAF for a brief period? (Don't want to hurt the Cats) Should I keep it under 4000rpm and give the car a case of amnesia first(battery disconnection)?

Pardon the novella, I'm just trying to be through in words.

As always, thanks for this info. I'll fetch that piece within the next day or so after I've nailed down that P0102 issue.

This image is a series of screen shots of the test I made while the vehicle was running...No electrical load was running.

No other tests can be done on the reader that I can see.

First screen was the test selected, next series of shots are the results...I improvised the scroll down by trimming the redundant data.

My new battery has an oval vent, smack in the middle side of the top of the battery between the two posts. I had to gently squish the angled tube at the end of the clear plastic tubing to fit into the oval vent, but usually these vents are round and are located at the narrow ends of batteries at the top.

(idle stabilizer)That's that older part on the 2.5L engines...This engine is the 3.2L S model from 2001(6Speed Manual Transmission). As for the throttle body itself, it was cleaned with the throttle body cleaner through and through. Last time it was cleaned was around 70k when the AOS was replaced. Sticks in the memory as I had broken the J-tube and had to order a replacement part for that. Now at 87k, it was still pretty clean but I gave it a solid cleaning and even replaced the gasket seal between the TB and the tube.

10 minutes out till CEL and 10 minutes back....20 minutes in all. If it was flashing, other than the cursing, I would have turned the engine off and flat-bedded it.

Was following Loren's recommendation of clearing codes to see which little piggy (P0102) was first to go whee whee all the way home. :lol:

After clearing the codes, resetting the boots for the throttle body and the resonance tube, double checking all the vacuum hoses, finding the hose that connects the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the AOS to be slightly askew on the AOS side and then trying to reseat it as proper as I can...Then re-cleaning the MAF again...Then driving for about 10 minutes, the car was able to summon only one code...

P0102

This time the high idle appeared to be gone, but the low idle overall appeared to be rougher than yesterday. Also, testing the presence of suction in the oil filler cap did make the low idle appear to be worse, almost to the point of quitting running.

Idle is around 850.

Neighbor had a Matco MD9000a so I was able to retrieve 6 codes:

P1126

P1133

P0102

P0507

P1128

The car was driven for an hour down HWY1 down to HWY84 to let all the settings sink into the car's computer since the previous battery was well past its life of service and could no longer hold a charge. Drive was perfect. Initial RPM's at idle were around 800-900. Temp never peeked past the 180° part. Cycled through the heating and cooling to make sure coolant had no air-pockets left in the system. Vented properly with the hinge in the 'up' position.

I let the car cool down after I enjoyed a nice meal at Alice's Restaurant, and then took HWY 35 back to I-280...Just after I left the restaurant, the CEL light came on. No flashing, just solid. I don't have a code reader, but I noticed the RPM's at idle would not drop below 1200. Nothing else seemed out of place.

I know it is just 'Idle Speculation' at the moment without knowing any codes, but any thoughts were to look first on the car? And since I am practically tapped now from the list of repairs(listed below), is there a reader of this thread local to the San Francisco Bay Area with a Durametric available for a read? Otherwise I may have to wait a month or two until I can get an 'Enthusiast Durametric' and someone with a PC laptop since I'm Apple based without any 'PC emulator' software. I will get a Durametric at some point in the near future, I just don't have the budget for one at the moment.

I'm just thinking ahead at the moment and I know it's just a guessing game without knowing the codes for anything, but usually there is someone that has been through the same thing or has known a similar issue.

Will an OBD II Reader work in this case since it is an emission type of issue?

Thanks for any insights...

DIY work performed on my 2001S 986 Manual:

LN IMS Bearing

RMS

Clutch/flywheel/Pressure Plate

160° Thermostat

New Oil

New Coolant

New Transmission Fluid

New Oil Cooler (and seals)

New air filer/oil filter

New Spark plugs

New positive crankcase ventilation valve & seal

New Intake Manifold seals (4-6)

New Intake Manifold seals for Fuel Injectors (4-6)

Through cleaning of the Throttle Body & Resonance Tube

New seal for the Throttle Body

Cleaned MAF

New Battery

Took me long enough....but the project is finally done, with a minimum of parts left orphaned :huh:

Had mild panic attack at first starts before I traced the error to spark plug cables not fully mated. Also had some minor lifter noise that went away once the oil was carefully brought to balance...They may need to be addressed in the near future.

Am now going on the first drive to give the computer time to relearn settings after the battery bit the dust after many years of unrelenting service....I even have the radio code at the ready.

But all of that aside...I want to give a big thanks to all who offered advice and information via this forum:

Loren

JFP in PA

kbrandsma

NewArt1

pjq

Ahasi

flyingpenquin

Luke @ Sunset

Now off to parts known and unknown :drive:

Thanks Loren...

On the left side of image C & D in the picture referenced in the Pelican topic of replacing the Fuel Pump, there is a section of clear plastic tubing that disappears into the void of the area that contains the fuel tank.

On my car, it was not connected to anything, and floating loose from the fuel tank area in the area where the battery resides. What is its purpose? Should it connect to anything or is its proper place to just float around the area where the battery sits? I don't think it sits down below like the Pelican image, as the tray for the battery would squash any fluid that would exist in it if its purpose is an overflow tube.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump/images_large/Pic5.jpg

I should mention this is a "what if" scenario, if a spare battery wasn't around.

I bought a Schumacher SE50 with the intention of charging the battery since it is way past time for a trickle charger. Can this device also unlock the front trunk using the fuse panel/door jam method if you don't have access to a spare battery?

The switch has labels on it (A1 and A2).

A1 goes to black/blue wire.

A2 goes to black/red wire.

Thanks...I would have wired it backwards.

Finally received the right fluid for the Trans....Had the right smell too. I don't know what the other fluid was, but it sure didn't smell like this did...

All that's left to do now is stick on the muffler, recharge the battery, finish topping off the coolant, pop on the rear suspension and the dressing....

And fix just one more thing.....The rear backup light switch was yanked off of its connectors by an over-eager assistant...It's a real easy fix, popping it back on so it'll be easily plugged back onto the Transmission. Trouble is, I don't know which wire is for which. I've got the two tab B's on the transmission itself, with one of the tabs towards the rear of the car, the other towards the passenger seat. Then I've got the two wires with their respective tab A's. One with red(I'm assuming this is the hot wire) and black the other with blue and black. Then I have the connector, that the two wires slide into, with one of the channels labeled 1 the other, 2.

I tried to see if there was a 1 - 2 labeled on the transmission where it connects but I don't see it stamped at the connection point. Do you know which is which?

And again thanks for your help in this.

Z

Thanks JFP, am about to do that...though a Home Despot is closer...I'll check there first.

If ever I can mate the bloody transmission to the engine...Right now the tranny is still on the jack, and I can't drain the fluid until it's mated back to the engine. Trying to mate it to the engine as gently as possible has been the most difficult thing about this job. It should go in like 'buttah' but getting everything aligned properly so the pinion arrives at the cradle of the pilot bearing has been a bear.

I just don't have the strength after the operation I had last January to do it by myself. The goal post is in sight...and now I get a charley horse at the five-yard line.

I know it isn't regular motor oil, but it isn't what was in there previously. Once I get it on the engine, and the jack removed, I'll just let it drain until the replacement fluid arrives....Maybe even run an off the shelf transmission fluid thru it for good measure.

For now, I'm going to try to source some steel rods close to the same size as the case bolts for the transmission to help me align it proper.

What is the color of the Burmah stuff? And it's normal application in Porsche flavored vehicles is for tiptronics?

All I know is that the fluid didn't seem right. As for "what" type of fluid it is...."non s manual fluid"/automatic tranny fluid/clutch fluid I don't know.

What I do know was his response when I asked him to verify what he sent me:

"I double checked and no it looks like we sent you the non S fluid. I can send out the S fluid today for you. Trying to follow the graphs for the fluid I must have jumped a line and sent standard Boxter fluid."

If the T-fluids for Boxsters has changed since 2001, with the introduction of PDK, he may of meant that...I just don't know.

I ordered transmission fluid from Sunset, and it arrived late Christmas Eve, and I put the fluid in the transmission while it was out of the car...It was Amber in color and thin, fairly clear. It didn't quite have that pungy aroma of transmission fluid.

I sent off and email to the guy that handles my order thru Sunset, asking him to double check what he sent me and indeed he filled the bottles with a non S type of fluid, and he is sending me a new package of the correct fluid.

Since the fluid is in the tranny now, once it is drained out through the plug at the bottom and the correct fluid put in, will having that residue from the incorrect fluid be harmful to the transmission?

The car won't be started until the proper fluid is in the car.

Again...the car is a 2001 S 6-speed Manual Boxster.

Since my car is the double row I didn't see any sense in downgrading to the pelican kit (spacer with the single bearing). Despite the "battle of the balls" about whose ball bearings were the best, I'm fairly certain LN has done their homework, so I went with their D.R. bearing.

Thanks again, I peeked inside the flange and lo-and-behold...an o-ring already there. The one on the bolt must be a spare...any harm in installing it like the attached image from pelican?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/images_large/Pic123.jpg

Thanks, yes the bolt...There is a o-ring on it though. They just don't mention where that o-ring should be in the final lines of the documentation, just the use of the locker/sealants in case the o-ring fails. I suspect the o-ring is between the nut and the flange, but I thought I'd ask.