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trauh

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Posts posted by trauh

  1. You must have a switch with an LED in it. The wiring is different for that, and I have never been able to figure out how to make it work for a garage door application that uses its own power for the transmitter. I believe that the middle pin is used for a common 12V feed, and that the twin middle pins are for the toggle switch, with the outside pins for lights and led power. I had to use the middle pins for the opener switch, and could not figure out how to get the switch to back light.

    I tried jumping the outside pins from my PSM (which seem to have 8 volts across them with lights on and car off) to the outside pins on my switch, but no luck. Please let me know if you figure it out. Otherwise I might have to get the targa switch...

  2. I have a 2001 C2 Cab with 16K miles on. The check engine light went on around 7 weeks back with a P1128 code (cylinders 1-3 too rich). It since been reset and reoccurred three more times.

    So far I've followed Loren's advice and checked for an obvious exhaust or intake leak and have come up empty. We did find a the air intake on the throttle body to be a wee bit loose. After all that it has reoccurred again.

    Here is the situation. I always occurs on the highway in heavy traffic, when the car has been moving slowly (10-25 mph) for a few minutes. Its been top down every time (I know, shouldn't matter, but hey, I'm covering everything). Outside temp has ranged from upper 70's to upper 90s.

    It does not seem to repeat every time the car is under these conditions. But it has only occurred moving slowly on the highway. I'm thinking of trying some fuel injector cleaner tomorrow, any maybe pulling the fuel filter (though that doesn't seem likely to me given the mileage and slow speed circumstance). Any thoughts?

  3. The check engine light turned on when I was driving on the highway yesterday (2001 C2 Cab, 16K miles, one week after installing PSE exhaust). Stopped by my mechanic and he pulled one code out - P1128, which translates to "Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 2 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold".

    My mechanic reset the light and sent me on my way to see if it recurs. Any one have any experience with this (or suggestions)?

  4. I installed a garage door opener in my 2001 C2 Cab by taking a handheld opener and soldering wires to the switch contacts. Then I purchased a switch for one of the blank slots to the left of the radio and connected the wires to that. I am trying to figure out how to illuminate the switch, but since one of the leads to illuminate the switch is already in use to complete the circuit for the garage door opener (which has its own power), I am not sure that i can safely do it. Has anyone else ever figured this out?

  5. All fixed. With continued observation I noticed that the alarm system led did sometimes cycle into the double flash indicating a fault. Yesterday I picked up the new alarm horn and 5 minutes later it was installed. So far it works like a charm. Horn beeps, and the system arms correctly (which I now believe it never was doing).

    Crossing my fingers that it stays that way. Loren and Toolpants and others, thanks so much for the guidance. This board rocks!

  6. Sorry, bad explanation on my part. The alarm horn is dead but the alarm light just normal flashes when I turn the alarm on. I double checked that it does activiate properly, and alse verified that if I leave a zone open that it is detected.

    I am assuming that when I come back to the car and find the flashers going that the alarm has been set off, so I will need to track down why it is going off randomly.

    If the alarm horn is dead and the lights double flash then it is likely an open zone. Most common open zones are: the center console lid not shut tight (or the microswitch is broken), then microswitch for the front trunk, or 3rd party radio installed without covering the alarm trigger point. It could be this simple.

  7. Yep - just checked and the alarm horn is dead. So I guess I will have to check voltage to verify it is the horn (as per your suggestion). Then its off to the local repair shop to pull the error. Thanks for all the help.

    The alarm has it's own horn.  It is not the same has the horns when you push on the steering wheel.  The alarm horn is the round metal silver thing next to the battery on the drivers side.  The steering wheel horns are behind the front bumper cover on the passenger side.  Sounds like your alarm horn is dead and that is why you only see the flashing lights in the front and rear of the car when it goes off, and not also the alarm horn.

    Disconnect the connector to the alarm horn and hook up a volt meter.  Arm the alarm then set it off and see if the voltage jumps from 0 to 12 volts in sinc with the flashing lights.  If it does then replace the horn.

    Then you have to figure out why the alarm is going off by itself.

  8. One more question - I noticed that when I press my key remote, the red LED flashes fairly quickly (maybe 4 times per second or so) - is that the proper behavior?

    The system goes through a series of tests as it "sets" the alarm. If during one of those tests a criteria is not met then an alarm readiness state is displayed (i.e. rapid flashing, double-flashing, on, off, or normal flashing). Rapid flashing means that the alarm system is not "primed". Unlike the signal most folks get with an open zone (single horn beep when a zone is open) the rapid flashing would indicate that the alarm did not succeed in reaching the readiness state. 

     

    Again, if it works with a key then it is likely either a battery (bad battery or poor contact) or even a sticking button on the remote.

    BTW... you said rapid flashing not double flashing... right?

    They mean different things.

  9. Interesting. I will try locking with the key. I did recently change the battery in the key remote.

    Are the flashing blinkers used to indicate the alarm was triggered or a fault? I just read about watching the red alarm indicator, so I'll have to see if that starts double flashing the next time.

    What happens if you lock it by key?

    If it works fine with the key it might be the remote - battery or coding.

    A PST2 can read the codes for the alarm system which should tell a tech exactly what the problem is.

  10. 2001 996 C2 Cab. When I activate the alarm I frequently come back and find the blinkers (hazard flashers, turn signals, you know what I mean) flashing. Alarm siren never sounds (not that I have ever heard). When I unlock the car the flashers stop.

    This has happened both top up and top down, and only when I activate the alarm. Alarm seems to activate correctly (no beep warning). And it seems to be a new problem this season. No changes to the car, other than replacing the horns late last year (and the horns seem to work fine).

    Any thoughts on what might be wrong?

  11. My 2001 996 had the hardtop on it (with the improved hardtop latches, per Porsche). When I went to remove it last night, I had a very hard time getting the top off. I opened the doors, lowered the rear quarter windows, fully unlatched the front catch, and then opened the latches in back (yes, all the way to the stop). It was a real struggle to get the back to release; with the latches open I had maybe a quarter or half inch of vertical play, but could not lift the top any higher in back than that.

    After 20 minutes of opening and closing the latches I finally popped the front out of the tabs and then muscled the back out. Did I do something wrong (like not lowering the front windows even though the doors were open), do I need to adjust the latches, or do I just need to apply more force?

  12. Thank you both for the responses. You are exactly correct. I followed directions the first time and plugged into the cigarette lighter, then the wall outlet. The second time I didn't. Who would have thought it mattered. Next time I will follow directions.

    Used the snowblower this morning (Boston). Its going to be a long 3 months waiting to get my C2 back on the road. I wonder if they make PSE for an Ariens...

  13. I use the Porsche brand battery maintainer on my 996 for the winter. I recently noticed that the red light on the unit that plugs into an outlet is on all the time. I think that it used to go out, only staying lit when the charging circuit is in use. That makes me wonder if I have a drain now that I did not used to have. Can someone else with the battery maintainer let me know whether or not the light really does go out?

    Not sure if this is related, but I noticed that the red light on my radio flashes on and off (single flash). I was thinking it only does that when the car is locked (the car is unlocked). Am I wrong about that?

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