typhon

in this diagram, it shows that the rear speaker is phase reversed. is this just for the one speaker that is marked, or both of the rear speakers? what purpose does this serve. i was under the impression that running speakers out of phase was a bad thing. is that just old school thinking?

OK you did ask.....

A dynamic decorrelator for surround sound signals is disclosed. In one embodiment, a mono detection circuit is used to detect the extent to which a left rear surround input signal and a right rear surround input signal are similar. To the extent that the surround input signals are similar, the signals are decorrelated. Decorrelation is performed by a pair of allpass filters that introduce complementary phase shifts in the left rear surround input signal and the right rear surround input signal. The complementary phase shifts are sufficient to prevent the surround signals from collapsing to the front of the listener when they are rendered using a pair of front speakers.

so, this would be part of the digital processing effects to enhance the surround sound mode. correct?

if i replace my system, should i run all of the speakers in phase?

in this diagram, it shows that the rear speaker is phase reversed. is this just for the one speaker that is marked, or both of the rear speakers? what purpose does this serve. i was under the impression that running speakers out of phase was a bad thing. is that just old school thinking?

I hope that these pics will give some idea of what is happening w/ my audio system. I have been beating my head against the wall trying to figure this one out. Obviously, I am not smart enough and was hoping that someone out there might be. Screen #1 is right after the unit is powered up.

Next, I press the “AUDIO” button and screen #2 pops up w/ “Frequency” highlighted

I then press the selector knob to choose a frequency and the frequency field is blank

I then choose the “Autostore” function

and get a message that states, “Search in Progress”. However, the search is terminated so rapidly that I cannot get a photo of the message. No frequencies are stored and the radio will not function. Cassette tapes are not recognized and neither is my CD changer.

I am able to adjust Loudness, Treble, Bass, etc.

and those settings are stored. The GPS works flawlessly

The AC functions work perfectly as well

Does anyone have a clue what is wrong w/ my audio system?

Does anyone have any experience with this product? Supposedly with this chip upgrade, it gives you an additional 30 hp on a 996.

i recently tested a different flash upgrade and was definitely unimpressed with my current bone stock 996. luckily for me, it was a 5 hour trial. i opted not to do it yet. i think that i have some other mods that i should probably tackle first and then get the computer upgraded for those mods.

30hp seems like an unusually bold claim.

typhon

While I have been trying to sort out problems w/ my audio system, I have referred to this chart constantly. I decided to post it just in case someone else needs it and has lost it or purchased a used 996 that did not have one.

thanks. i'm hoping to get this audio problem sorted out. miss my tunes.

typhon

Sweet thread title.

originally, i had a problem getting the pcm to ask for both of the codes required after disconnecting the battery. all of the posts i could find deal with people needing the codes. i have the codes. i had to disconnect the battery several times to finally get the system to ask for both codes, but it did and i have successfully entered both. the problem now is: the audio portion still does not work. the navi works fine. the ac controls show up on the screen. everything is working except the audio portion. the radio, cassette and cd changer are all non functioning. so, i opened the hood,trunk to remove my cd's from the changer and noticed that i do not have any power to the cd changer either and i noticed the courtesy light is out. i checked the bulb. it is fine. i checked the hot and it is fine. i checked the ground and it is broken. does the cd changer share a ground with the courtesy light? just a thought. or, are the 2 totally unrelated?

totally perplexed.

typhon

originally, i had a problem getting the pcm to ask for both of the codes required after disconnecting the battery. all of the posts i could find deal with people needing the codes. i have the codes. i had to disconnect the battery several times to finally get the system to ask for both codes, but it did and i have successfully entered both. the problem now is: the audio portion still does not work. the navi works fine. the ac controls show up on the screen. everything is working except the audio portion. the radio, cassette and cd changer are all non functioning. so, i opened the hood,trunk to remove my cd's from the changer and noticed that i do not have any power to the cd changer either and i noticed the courtesy light is out. i checked the bulb. it is fine. i checked the hot and it is fine. i checked the ground and it is broken. does the cd changer share a ground with the courtesy light? just a thought. or, are the 2 totally unrelated? :unsure:

totally perplexed.

typhon

before all of the yelling and sreaming, let me just say, "i'm not a professional driver and this was by no means a scientific controlled experiment." all i did was some very subjective racing...uuhh, driving against a buddy of mine before and after the install of the revo stage 1 software. we have done this before, so we know how our cars run against each other and how we drive against each other. there are no drag strip timeslips or any imperical data to go by, just real world driving. i'm not even going to mention what kind of car he drives, because i don't want this to turn into one of those x-car is faster than y-car, so you should have smoked him or he should have smoked you kind of debates.

o.k. here are my findings:

from dead stop:

before the revo: 911 leads off of the line by 1/2 car length.

after the revo: 911 leads off of the line by full car length.

am i getting better at hole shots or is it the revo...don't know.

from rolling starts: no appreciable difference from any speed, 30, 40, 50, etc.

top end wot:

before the revo: 170 mph

after the revo: 171 mph

i guess at a dragstrip, the 1/2 car jump out of the hole would probably help my time. as far as street driving, i don't know if it is $900 worth of difference. since i am not going to drag race the car, that little difference is not enough justification for me. the 1 mph difference on top doesn't do it either. a simple change in wind direction could account for that. i'm not convinced. i think i should probably get the cat bypass, headers and air intake done first and then get it mapped for those changes. that seems to make more sense for me.

now what i have noticed was some unusual wear on my left rear tire after the runs. i just had an alignment done and will get those figures and a photo of the tire. i will post that under a new thread, since it is not relative to this one.

hope this gives some insight on flash upgrades.

typhon

late night is best for this...

Ain't you afeard of them armadillos? Up here we have white tail deer, which can really mess up a midnight run.

since hurricane katrina, we don't have too much wild life. heck the bugs are just starting to come back. mosquitoes were the first ones. i think they would survive a nuclear attack.

typhon

hang in there guys. i'm still doing some testing. (late night is best for this... if you know what i mean ;) i should be finished tonight and will let you know tomorrow.

anyone have any experience with the revo stage 1 upgrade? is it worth the money?

thanks,

typhon

alright, couldn't get any feedback on the revo upgrade, so i took the plunge for the 5 hour trial. it's in the car as we speak. i will try to post as detailed a response as i can to help anyone else considering it. anyway, after the 5 hours, if i like it i have to dish out $899 to keep it. i'll let you know

typhon

Had to unhook my battery and now the radio doesn’t work. When powered it on, the word CODE appeared, did not flash. I think I may have incorrectly entered code, then CODE went away and display is blank with only a back lighting. I tried to leave the radio on for 24 hours, but problem remains. I have successfully put code in several times in the past with no problems.

The radio is a CR1 in a 1994 928 GTS. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

i am having the same problem w/ my 2000 c4s 996. only this time when i disconnected the battery, it didn't ask for the code. don't know what to tell you, just that sometimes misery loves company.

typhon

anyone have any experience with the revo stage 1 upgrade? is it worth the money?

thanks,

typhon

For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon

Typhon:

In your case, it sounds like your regulator cable fraying, rather that the outer sheath crumpling. Kind of surprising with only 6K miles, though. Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

got it back today. regulator was toast. new one cost me $198 labor $259.67 for the regulator. works like a champ.

typhon

For a few months now my passenger window would periodically roll all the way down upon opening that door instead of stopping at the 1/2" or so point. There would then be some very quiet noise from that window as if it was trying to figure out what to do for approx. 5-10 seconds. During this time, input through the window control switch will go without response. After this time the window would function properly.

Two days ago, I noticed that the window no longer drops the 1/2" upon opening, when it does stop as it is supposed to instead of going all the way down. It will make a sound as if it is dropping properly however only move an unappreciable amount.

I know that this is confusing as I am having a difficult time describing the problematic behavior.

After reading other threads, I am thinking that it may be the window regulator. Does this sound correct? Any other considerations?

i am having almost the same exact problem. however, my window made a grinding noise as it was being raised and lowered. i had to try about six times to get it to close. kind of disappointing with only 6k miles on the clock. taking it to the shop today. i'll let you know what they say.

typhon