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Everything posted by typhon

  1. You can use a credit card through the PayPal interface - if you are more comfortable with that? If that does not work please PM me. PM sent
  2. +1 on that. what could possibly be the downside?
  3. i have been running mine at 36 front 44 rear for about 2yrs now and no problems. now my f250 diesel runs at 70 psi on all four. that plus the heavy suspension and the fact that the tires are 10 ply, you need a mouthpiece to drive on some of the streets around here :o
  4. success!! somewhat. ok, it's taken 3 months of tinkering, but i think that i have a solution. i don't know if anyone else had this problem or not, but here is what i did: after removing the top panel from the armrest, i drilled about 20 small holes in the back. with a hypo, i injected clear hobby cement (modeling glue) into the holes. i can't even remember how many tubes i used. could have been as many as 10 to 15. i just did a little each day and kept doing it until the top didn't flex anymore. then, i sanded the top and sprayed 3 coats of clear polyurethane, wet sanded to 1200, 3 more coats, sanded, 3 more coats, sanded. the problem i had was: now the wood grain look was gone where i had done the repair, so i took the finish almost completely down to where i started. i took an air-brush and blended in some dark ebony stain to simulate the wood grain color that was there originally and then went through the finishing process again. buffed it out and this is what i got. i know it's not perfect, but i can live with it. don't know if it was worth it, if you are just counting the dollars and time, but i learned a lot and hopefully someone else can use it too.
  5. now that i have it apart, i'm going to give the repair a try. if it doesn't work out, i'll send you a pm. thanks
  6. thanks. i'm going to do a couple of test spots on a piece of scrap wood that i have and see how it looks.
  7. i had a problem with the cover of the storage compartment cracking. don't know exactly what caused it. i decided to just buy another compartment door. retail: $1100 :o sale price: $785 :o when i looked inside the compartment, i noticed that the cover of the door is attached by 13 small torx screws. i removed the cover and will now attempt to save a little cash and repair the original one. does anyone know what the clear finish on this part is made of? epoxy? urethane? as i get it done, i'll post pics and hopefully it will help someone else as well. thanks
  8. there is nothing quite like a cool, crisp night, cruising with the windows down and the sunroof open. the moon is shining bright in the dark sky and the sound of my (still stock, but not for long) porsche engine is intoxicating. the chill in the air is invigorating for a short time. i press the switch for my heated seat and it activates for about 30 seconds and shuts off. i try it again...same result. i try the low heat setting and it stays on a little longer, but eventually shuts off after about 3 minutes. i think the problem might be the relay, but if so would the heating element activate at all? is there a thermostat that could be overheating? passenger side is working fine. thanks for any suggestions!
  9. i had to remove my pcm on my 2000 c4. here is a link to some photos of the process. it may be helpful. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=108664
  10. i ran into the same problem here in the states. you may actually want to look at some of the cool replacements that some of the users have posted on the forums. the stock units are limited at best. there are drop-in double din size replacements that are upgradeable, have touch screen capability, larger screen, etc. one unit is the kenwood dnx7120. it even has a remote control and ipod capability. there are others out there. i just thought that this one looked pretty nice. good luck!
  11. really? :unsure: i have a 2000 that has psm. i haven't taken my console apart see what it looks like underneath though.
  12. here is the link to the original problem that i was having. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry87478
  13. i had a similar problem that had me pulling my hair out for a while. the navi was working fine, but the radio, cd, and cassette were totally inoperable. here is the link to what i found and what i did to remedy it: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry108664 hope this helps.
  14. thanks for the reply. none of my relays look like the one pictured. according to my owner's manual, i have the pse. is there another location where i might find this relay?
  15. i am trying to do the 2 minute diode modification of the relay for the PSE. i cannot seem to find the proper relay to modify. does anyone know which of these relays is the correct one? thanks!!
  16. i have the same car, same dilema. you will find the navi to be very limited. the last update for the unit was 2001. nothing newer is available. sometimes it shows me driving around in the wilderness with none of the streets showing up. new units are easily upgradeable. i have opted to replace the entire unit with a more updated touch-screen model. i have been looking at several and have not decided on one yet. i have been searching the forums for a while and have not really found a 6 speaker install yet. there have been plenty where subs were added to a 4 speaker system, but i would like to keep the subs in the doors where the low freq. drivers are currently mounted. i also need to find out if there is an amp that can handle that, like the stock one that is currently installed or do i need two amps? if you look for my previous posts, you will see one that addresses the reverse phasing of the rear speakers. that is the stock wiring. i am still not sure if new speakers should be wired this way or not. i think that you have the right idea, i.e. replacing the system and storing the stock unit. you just have a little research to do on choosing the best replacement for you. hope all of this helps. let me know what you go with.
  17. Double check the black relay part number. the black relay is part no. 1 397 328 015
  18. "Also, in terms of actually getting to these relays - is it a get on your back and shimmy under the dash job? Is there any carpeting covering the wiring that I would need to remove first?" "Yes - stick your head under the driver's side dash - nothing to remove as the relays should be exposed." when i look under the driver's side, this is what i see. none of these relays appear to have the proper number. is there possibly another location? thanks!
  19. i got it!!! this cured my pcm1 problem, but i don't know if it is the same for the pcm2. here is what you do: 1) remove the left and right switch panels from the side of the pcm unit. you do this by inserting a small spatula at the base of the panel and prying upward. you can see in the photo that i used the metal stereo removal tools. they work fine. just be careful not to scratch anything. as the bottom releases, use your fingers to pull the remainder of the panel loose. 2) repeat for right side. there is no need to disconnect any of the switches or cigarette lighter. 3) there are 2 metal spring tabs that hold the pcm1 in place. insert your index fingers on each side of the unit and push these in. while holding them in, slide the unit toward you. here is the location of the spring tab w/ the unit removed: 4) once the unit is free, there is a 10amp fuse located on the driver's side upper rear corner. you should be able to reach it without disconnecting all of the wiring harnesses that plug into the rear of the pcm. i did not know what i was looking for, so i removed the entire unit. i removed the fuse and tested it to find that it was open. i replaced it and reinstalled the pcm. you will have to enter your codes again, so you might want to have those handy. i don't know why only the sound system is fused. i would have thought that the entire unit would be. anyway, glad i found it. hope this helps.
  20. i went with the goodyear eagle f1 gs-d3's. i've had them on for about 500 miles and am very satisfied. it rains quite a lot here in new orleans and i have found these to have excellent traction in wet conditions. they are also waaaaayyy quieter than the oem run-flats that were on the car when i bought it.
  21. i too have had nothing but trouble w/ my pcm system as you can see in my earlier post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry87478 unfortunately, the system that comes with the car doesn't appear to be that good. i know that you probably don't want to hear this, but i am going to scrap the whole system and go with the kenwood 7100. all of the posts that i have read about this unit have been positive. all of the users seem to really like it. i hope you have better luck than i did. i did not get one single reply to my earlier post.
  22. :unsure: for all of you seasoned p-car enthusiasts, i'm sure that none of this is a problem for you. however, being new to forums in general and owning my first porsche ever, all of these acronyms can get a little confusing. these are just a few that i have come across while reading the forum: PSE,RMS,EVO,CAI,FS,CEL,PSM,PCM,PCM1,PCM2,MOST,PST2,PIWIS,OBDII,MY,DE/AX,ROW,DME,SSK,EVOMS,RSS,PASM i know i'm going to take some heat for this, but where can i find info on what all of this means? i have my SFI 3-2A/1 w/ FR-7A, so flame away! :)
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