Danyol

I have 2003 TT X50 power pack, not eaten alive! Not reading carefully enough 997 S :huh:

I was on the Sebring Florida track following an '07 Z06, had no problem keeping up in acceleration 60 - 130 on the big straight (03 996X50. no mods) although he did appear to be backing off at top end. He also had issues coming out of Turn 16 getting the power down; the Pcar with the AWD just sling shot out of there.

Look in the members area on this website :huh:

I get squealing occasionally too, don't believe it's an issue. I've associated it to a few days dry weather & light breaking; It appears to go away when you make them work for a living ;)

Many aftermarket options for these, do a search on "shift light" here and on the web.

Porsche - I hate sitting here with nothing to do, I love to run; drive me please! Owner - I want to look after you, not get you wet, or get salt over you. Anyway, you'll be no good in snow. Porsche - Change my shoes, I have great traction in all weather. Let's go out and have some fun! Owner - (silence) Porsche - Please! :(

I jack my car from the main rib of the engine casing (further back from where you're suggesting), this area is a very strong part of the engine. This has been debated many times, and is a common way of doing it. I support the car on jackstands either at the jacking points just forward of the wheels or the suspension crossmember carrying all the suspension parts. I wouldn't put a jack to any of the actual suspension pieces, I'd be afraid of bending something.

I can add some kind of U stop that would restrict the travel less than the original. Not sure how often I'd be hitting against the bot head to make a difference, seems like a pretty hard bolt head.

Guys, I have an '03 TT with sport seats. I've noticed since buying the car the seats don't have as much travel back and forth as my '02 996 with the regular power seats. Cleaning the car today I spotted what appeared to be stops which I removed. The seats still hit some kind of firm stop with about 1 - 1.5" further travel. Anyone know why they would be there (pics attached)? :unsure: (I've copied this over from another group, please excuse me if you've seen it before)

Good news Jason. For reference, how many miles you have on the car?

I get 19 mpg on a run and as low as 14 with "spirited" driving...how can one avoid it, the car begs to be run (like Dash in the Incredibles!) :jump:

PK, I think your solution lies in "had an identical problem when the computer under the seat got swamped (since been replaced)" did you mean the box got soaked with water? Even if the computer was replaced corrosion can build up in the connector. The act of removing the connector and reinstalling it could have cleaned up the pins.

My '02 C4S was without any issues, sold 8 months ago with service history and 40k miles; I wanted a turbo.

I had an '02 C4S for 2 years and drove the hell out of it without any big issues and no leaks. Ensure you get a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) done by a Porsche shop independent of where you're buying, it is good insurance. See if you can get a service history on the car. I think the whole 996 series of cars are a great value right now. Take your time and don't rush, look at several examples before you buy. 1) RMS could be an issue on any 996 (non-TT), although I think many cars have been sorted by now some have recurrent issues. There have been a series of RMS mods/upgrades over the years. Much less common issue now, a history & PPI will help avoid a "recurrent". 2) Besides regular oil & brake fluid changes not sure you'll get much more for a "45k" service. There is a scheduled maintenance section on Renntech to help you with this. Brake fluid gets corrosive as it ages attacking brake seals, it is time more than mileage (max 2-3 yrs). Clutch life 99% depends on the driver; could be as low as 20k or over 60k depends on how hard the cars been driven and how much the clutch has been ridden. The pedal gets harder as the linings wear, you'll probably notice a difference from car to car. The C4S came with the turbo's brakes, at 40 -45k there should be plenty of wear left. At 40k mine looked like new. 3) The C4S comes from the factory pretty well optioned, the rest is down to personal preference (I think there is an available options document here on Renntech too). Although the short-shifter makes the car a pleasure (cost $2-300 after market if it doesn't have one). 4) Try to avoid someone else's "science project" for modifications; wheels/tires & exhaust ok, hacking and slashing of the electrical systems for after market stereos ect may lead to issues. 5) It is a buyer's market at the moment, I'd be looking on E-bay to get an idea where the bidding is going on similar cars (whether they meet there reserve or not). For us that aren't in the business this gives the closest indicator of a "fair" price; what the market is willing to bear.

You may be getting to the limits of the K16 turbo on the standard non-X50 car. It could just be the fuel delivery too causing lean running at 4-5k, typically these upgrades are completed as a "package". Could simply be plugs, many others including myself replaced the plugs much sooner than the factory 30k (away from factory Beru, also checked out the coils for cracks ect; they are a cheap replacement at plug time). Have you done anything with the intake, others have had issues with EVO intakes causing MAF errors? There are a lot of people running modded TTs over on Rennlist with a boatload of experience. I like this board for the 996 info sharing but spend time over there when things get more turbo specific.

The X50 Is supposed to have a different exhaust and slightly beefed up 6 speed from the STD TT although details of the exact upgrds are sketchy. The main difference from a STD TT is the use of K24 vs K16 turbos. If you were planning any mods, a mild ECU tweak on the std TT will give you about 490HP & the same tweak on the X50 525HP (FVD or UMW). Beyond that the K16 will be the first limitation for ultimate power. Along with the uber brakes the X50/PCCB is a natural platform for mods (although the std TT is great for this too but will need greater initial $ if you want go "wild"). Either way, both are great cars.

I went for the X50 with the fancy yellow calipers, NO brake dust! They also work really well with the huge calipers (the std reds on the TT are awesome too). Advice I had was that I could retrofit steel rotors in event of some kind of failure.

I replaced the plugs today on my 'O3TT, noticed something similar on the lower Icooler hose. Noted the O'ring had been smeared with grease on the metal end, maybe someone had a hard time during a previous service. This left some residue in the other pipe. On replacing the plugs from now on for me, - all research has recommended replacing the stock Beru with the Bosch FR6 LDC, been told they survive better - Remove the center heat shield, leave the upper nuts (pain in the ...) on the smaller side shields, just bend them up out of the way - Inspect the coils for cracks and corrosion when you clean them up. Car appeared to be smoother but not a big difference. Hope I don't have to go in there again anytime soon!

The only "MODS" on my car are Champion wheels that came from Champion Motors shortly after the car was purchased there, my car is considered "modified" according to the PRISM policy (CARCHEX) I've looked at. Common MODS include short shift kits, wheels/tires and lower ride height springs. Good advice on reading the contract, the guy selling me the policy didn't know about the wheel exclusion but he was kind enough to send me a copy of the contract in advance.

Guys, I have a 2002 remote key I picked up on E-bay for a 996. Can anyone tell me whether it can be programmed to match my 2003 TT? Thanks!

I'm looking to verify the wastegate operating point on my car ('03 X50 TT). Doing some research I came up with "4.0 + 0.5 mm @ 0.5 Bar" I was told this was in the TT manual under "Exhaust and Turbocharging". I'm not sure if this is the same for all the TT cars TT/X50/GT2 or it varied by year? Thanks. :unsure:

I've been looking for coverage In FL and had the same issue. I found one company that was offering coverage but the list of disqualifiers included modified rims/tires, I have 19" wheels. Some companies exclude performance cars on TT or AWD so ensure you state both. AAA sell a MERCURY policy which excludes AWD TT. They told me AAA is going to a new company that was likely to be less restrictive in December. The company that was quoting me was CARCHEX (1-877-CARCHEX) on a PRISM policy, it looked good. These companies don't cover all the States, I would call about GA.

I had the same symptoms when my CAT converter started to fail (rattling from the exhaust).

If you still have a "check engine" light I believe Autozone will read out the codes for you for free. What appeared to be O2 sensors in my car ended up being CAT converter with a big loss of power at the top end.

What Is the error code for the check engine light?