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About csman

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCGB (Porsche Club Great Britain)
  • Present cars
    997 Turbo 2007
    Golf GTI Edition 30 2007
  • Future cars
    Orange 997 GT3 RS if dreams come true
  • Former cars
    997 C4S cab
    997 Carrera S 2005
    Boxster S 987
    Griffith 500
    Griffith 400

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  1. Thanks Walt Thee is never a problem under boost or load so suspect it is not a big issue, but I've decided to get it checked by a specialist next month. If I don't get a big bill I might invest in an ECU remap to celebrate, man maths at its best!
  2. Thanks for the feedback both. I will try longer idling time and see if that helps. Generally I always drive gently for the last few miles of a drive to let everything cool down before turning off but will haven't then let it idle in addition. Thanks guys
  3. It seems that Porsche folk have moved elsewhere. There seems to be weeks as opposed to hours between new posts which is never a good sign...
  4. Hi there, My 2008 turbo is suffering from producing a smoke screen on cold start, and occasionally on a warm start up. Having had quite a few flat sixes over the years I know some say that white smoke on startup is normal, but this smoke I think is more oil burn off smelling and is thick and embarrassing. I spoke to the dealer I originally got the car from and their view is "they all do that from time to time" but my previous 997 turbo never did. There doesn't seem to be any other smoke after the first few seconds after start up whatever driving conditions are after that. Also it seems to be the left hand pipe that smokes more than the left. The car drives perfectly otherwise and I have always used mobil1 oil. Any ideas on the fix as I don't think I want to just live with it on a car of this value
  5. Had similar problem with '05 997 C2S particularly when hot. Tried cleaning up the cable connection under the car but this didn't cure it. Porsche sent me down the alternator route (£££ or $$$$ depending which side of the Atlantic you are on), still no fix. Turned out to be new starter motor which gave me 100% cure for over a year before I sold the car. Horrible not to be 100% sure that you car is going to start.
  6. The problem needs to be properly diagnosed using the voltage drop test method. Its true that the starter alternator cable does go bad, but it can also be a voltage drop somewhere else in the B+ circuit up to the battery. I suggest taking it to Callas Rennsport, they got the factory scanner and all the right tools. The warranty policy with porsche regarding batteries is that if you dont put 6K in mileage per year the battery will not be covered. Regarding the starter, this is 100% not the problem, this is from my experience with these issues. vizcarra44 Had the same problem, tried everything including cable connection etc. New starter was the only answer and 100% cured. In the end I had spent a lot of time, money and stress avoiding changing the starter. Sometimes the obvious answer is the right one!
  7. Hi Paul, thanks for the pics. These helped me to find the connection quite easily. The big difference is that, as you mentioned my UK supplied car seems to have many more under-body panels than your car (wet UK climate perhaps). Looking at the picture I had to remove the whole triangular rear section plus some of the panel further forward to get access to the cable under another flap! Also the cable is in the right hand side of the car for both left hand drive and right hand drive cars. Anyway, good news is that I have done it, there was some corrosion on the connection which has now been removed, treated with some moisture repellent spray (WD40) and reassembled. :rolleyes: The great news is that initial impression is that the issue is fixed for £0 ($0)! :D Repeated hot starts have all been successfully with no sign of the starter slowing down. I withhold final judgment for a week or so of normal driving / use but initial impressions are excellent. Thanks again for you help on this as it may well have saved me a small fortune in workshop fees as well as an embarrassing breakdown. Thanks CSM :renntech:
  8. If the exhaust sound increases when you're in 'sport mode' than I have to assume you have a PSE. There are many ways to tell if you have a PSE. The most visible is if the exhaust tips (chrome plated) are different sizes (diameter) and offset. The standard (non PSE 997S) stainless tips that are equal in size. It's easy to spot the solenoid that activates the PSE 'valves' and if look underneath you'll be able to see the actual vacuum operated valves that attach to each muffler. Do a search on this forum or others. There are plenty of pictures that will help you. This forum has the install procedures in their technical archives that will certainly help spot things. I am surprised that you got little help for your Porsche dealership. Loren's suggestion of loose or broken parts may also be a factor but I think when you said the exhaust level increases when you push the 'Sport Mode' button it sort of points to PSE. If you do have a factory installed PSE then it will cut out if you fall beneath a certain speed. Germany has some noise regulations that Porsche had to abide with and so they simply made the PSE DME (main computer) controllable. It now makes some sense that the service action was to lubricate the 'butterfly valve'. Maybe it was sticky or not working correctly. Of course if that didn't fix the problem you might have a faulty muffler/valve. In any event it should be covered under your warranty (assuming it's still active). If you have no warranty left possible the exhaust system is covered under the emissions warranty which I believe is longer than the 4 yr period. I could be wrong. Good luck and keep us posted. I have the same problem on my 05 C2S coupe with sports Chrono and PSE (which it seems you must have). Visited a reputable independent specialist yesterday who checked the exhaust but said before and afterwards that it was the valve actuator/butterfly that seems to cause this on some cars. After checking he thought that his initial diagnosis was still correct. There is no easy fix but equally it causes no damage so unless it is under warranty or really annoying you it's best to live with it (as I have decided to do). Call it character! Cheers csm
  9. Keep us posted. I will have the dealer check this spot....if they don't diagnose it first! I am really interested in their diagnosis. I am also taking the car to an independent shop on Friday, so I will ask them for an opinion as well. I will keep you posted. Nick Hi Nick, awaiting feedback from Paul above but did your independent offer any advice on the possible cause? thanks csman
  10. Hi Paul, I am having difficulty locating both the wire and therfore flap. Could you indicate where the cable / flap is on the attached picture of a model 997 GT3 (which is remarkably accurate and similar to my c2s underside!). I can only find one flap which I have shown on the photo and there is no cable behind it. should I be looking more in toward the rear of the car in the open section with no undertray? many thanks csman
  11. Thanks Paul, Thats the kind of stuff I was looking for. I will have some time to do this in 2 weeks and will let you know whether it is successful. Many thanks csman
  12. Thanks RFM, still cant find the DIY section mentioned earlier that would point me in the right direction to diagnose/swap out the starter and or cables? Hi csman. I just bought my first 997 yesterday, and I had similar problems. I flew across the states to pick it up at the dealer, and then I had a 9 hour drive ahead of me. The car started fine at the dealer, but started cranking much slower at the rest stops. By the time I got home, it wouldn't start at all! I just Googled this link, and it looks like the long explanation may have some merit. What do you think? Mine is still under warranty for a month, so I am heading straight to the dealer. Let me know what you come up with. http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=436230 Nick Hi Nick, thanks for this. it sound like a good explanation. The thread has a slightly different sypmtom to mine (and I think yours) because with mine the starter always turns but very slowly (i.e not just a click). In saying that the fix could be the same (i.e. corroded cable). My car had a tough early life being used year round on wet salty British motorwarys/highways so corrosion could be high on the list of causes. The symptoms that you descibe seem very similary to mine assuming you battery and charging circuit are working well. I could do with some pictures/diagrams of what cable to inspect and how to replace the starter, but haven't found any yet. The car is out of warranty hence trying to investigate the diy route before getting stung by the dealer again! I will let you know if I make progress and would be interested in the diagnosis from your dealer. Cheers csman
  13. Thanks RFM, still cant find the DIY section mentioned earlier that would point me in the right direction to diagnose/swap out the starter and or cables?
  14. Thanks for all of the replies. as I mentioned in the first post, the battery and alternater are brand new from Porsche Centre and tested/charging sucessfully. Where do I find the starter motor DIY? many thanks
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