KarlS

hey Loren,

are the suspension on GT3 the same as X74 for Carrera?

and compare X74 to the PSS9, what are the main differents?

cheers,

Tony

GT3 suspension and X74 are totally different. The GT3 doesn't just have different shocks, springs, and sway bars but many of the suspension parts are different as well, including the front uprights, front and rear control arms, the rear cross member, most of the bushings, etc. The front uprights are designed for the GT3 brakes, so you'll have to change them as well. Schatz Motorsports sells a kit of the parts necessary to do this for $12.5K. You can figure another couple grand for installation and set-up.

The problem with trying to make a Carrera into a GT3 is that you'll end up spending more than just buying a GT3.

Karl

I installed a TP in my 2004 GT3. The nice thing was the stock radio connector was already wired for the reverse signal so I didn't need to fool around with that. The TP works fine but I've noticed that it periodically makes a whirring, electric motor type sound, like a CD-ROM drive might make. It does this even when I'm not using the Nav but just listening to the radio. Is this normal?

Karl

I've had the latest supplements on order for some time now with no luck in getting them. I'm glad I bought my manuals when they were $500. Seems like it's the one Porsche item I have that has appreciated over time :)

Karl

If it makes you feel any better, I bought my car in July and still haven't gotten a single issue of Christopherus. I can't say that I've missed it, given the volume of Porsche and other car mags I already get. From what I recall from a previous subscription, it was mainly a glossly sales brochure anyway. Probably filled with lots of Cayenne travel articles right about now.

Karl

so I take it parts are really expensive!!  by the way, thanks for the side skirt instructions

Engine alone lists for $42,000 (and that is exchange).

I didn't even mention suspension or brake changes to match the turbo either...

The TT engine requires a different transmission as well. Even if you can find a used engine/tranny combo and are able to sell the 996 engine and tranny, this swap will cost you $40-50K not including all the other changes Loren mentioned. I agree that either supercharging or just buying a TT Cab is a much more cost effective solution.

Karl

They aren't braided on the Cup car either. It's never been a problem for me.

Karl

All Porsche speedo's seem to read a couple percent optimistic. Perhaps another concession to the liability lawyers.

Karl

Yes, the GT3 RS uses e-gas. The MK1 GT3 has a mechanical throttle linkage. I don't know about the left foot braking issue, that could be a US emissions or fuel mileage requirement.

Can't tell you why PAG decided not to offer the single-mass flywheel again, except on the RS. Only the marketeers at PAG would know that.

Karl

I agree with Loren. I run 15w50 in the summer and for track duty and 0w40 for winter in the great white northeast. It sounds like that dealer wants to sell you some Castrol.

Karl

Plus when you go to sell the car, the buyer is going to wonder why an early 996 has had such an extensive upgrade to front end and assume it's been wrecked. So it will probably cost you some gried in terms of resale value.

Karl

A friend of mine with an 01 TT has removed the mufflers and cats and runs straight pipes off the Turbos. He also has a chip from one of the name brand tuners. He claims about 550 HP but I don't know if he ever had it dynoed. It's also very loud, as you might expect with no muffler or cat.

Karl

I replaced both levers with new (under warranty, fortunately) and then cut a piece of 3M clear vinyl film to protect them. This is the same material that ArmourFend and others use for rock chip protection on the exterior. You can buy it in sheets and cut to fit.

I changed the vinyl tape about once a year, as it would get scuffed but the handles themselves stayed like new.

Karl

Jim,

You'd really need to sit down with a PET CD to get the complete list but the body shop that is doing the updates for your car should be able to figure it out. Here's a summary based on a quick look I just did:

- headlights - everything is different between the model years. There's 23 parts here for the 02+ non-Xenon lights

- fender - in addition to the fenders, the fuel filler door is different and there is a little piece called a protective foil that attaches to the headlight opening

- bumper - in addition to the cover, the air inlet that fits inside of the cover and all the attachment brackets (3) are different

- hood - there is a trim piece that covers up the bumper cover at the front that is different

Probably about 35 parts all total.

Karl

Yes use the front jack points. If you look at them closely, you will see that they are really a U-shaped piece of steel that is hollow inside. I stick the tip of the hook into the back end of the jack point and cross the straps to the FRONT of the trailer. To do this, the straps have to be laid down in advance and then you just drive the car up over them. I use an old coat hanger to reach under the car and pull the straps over to where I can reach them. Then I attach the rear straps and rachet the car tight from the rear. Double check to make sure both front straps are tight when you are done in the rear and if not, there should be enough clearance to tighten them one or two pulls if you need to.

Karl

The performance below 5K was virtually unchanged. There was a small increase in HP and torque according to the dyno but it was not noticeable on the street or on the track.

Karl

At highway speeds it won't be a problem but at slower speeds you'll be down a few horsepower. The SuperCup team, which use to run a similar style air filter, found they could lose as much as 5-6 HP in slow corners due to hot air. The 2004 Cup cars have corrected this by using a different style filter that is surrounded by a CF heat shield. This set up won't work on street cars however, since there is no provision for a MAF on the Cup car.

Karl

I did the Fabspeed headers, mufflers, and TRG Unichip on my 1999 996. The dyno runs showed about a 18 HP gain, almost all in the rpm range above 5000.

Karl

You can reset the CEL by disconnecting the battery. As long as the fault that led to the CEL has been corrected, the light won't come back on. The fault code is stored in memory and can be pulled up later with a PST-2, so you don't clear the fault code, just the light.

Karl

No but the muffler doesn't add much, if anything, in terms of performance. Most people do it because they like the sound better, not as a performance enhancement. A muffler and headers may yield a total of 10 HP in ideal circumstances. However, poorly designed units have been known to reduce HP and cause flat spots in the torque curve.

Karl

From 2003 forward, the GT2, GT3, and GT3 Cup use the same brake air deflectors. The TT uses a different part and although I haven't physically seen one, I suspect they are smaller and don't have as much problem with ground clearance as these other models.

Karl

Rockit,

I think about the only thing that wouldn't be covered under warranty is if the 100 cell cat starts burning out the O2 sensors. I had a set of FVD 100 cell cats on my 996 and they ran enough hotter that they burned out the O2 sensors after a couple of track days. The O2 sensors are about $120 each to replace, so it's not a big risk and the EP cats may be better than the FVD ones, so you may not have any problems. But if you start throwing CELs this Spring, that's the first place to look.

Karl

It will most likely change the sound but I doubt it will do much more. I don't think the Porsche engineers left much on the table here. If you could figure out a way to get rid of the MAF and put a 2004 Cup car filter on it, then you might see 5 BHP gains.

Karl

If you haven't already tried this you can get a #30 Torx head socket for a 3/8" socket wrench. If the socket wrench doesn't provide enough leverage to break the bolts loose, you can try a 3/8" breaker bar.

Karl

You description of the symptoms and the noise would certainly make me suspicous of the LSD as the culprit. The easiest way I know of to check the LSD is to jack up one side of the rear of the car. If the wheel that is off the ground can easily be turned, the diff is open and has failed. If it is difficult to impossible to the turn the rear wheel, the locking action of the diff is still working and you may need to look else where for the problem.

Also, make sure you have the alignment check by a competent mechanic. It's possible that a variance in toe settings from one side of the car to the other could be causing this behavior.

Karl

I'm trying to install the Traffic Pro this weekend in my 2004 GT3. I have the antenna installed and I'm trying to fish the antenna lead down to the radio slot. There doesn't appear to be enough room to get the large connector through the small gap beween the dash and the black plastic back of the radio/AC pod, so I'm trying to remove the pod from the dash. I have taken out the center surround, the radio, and the AC but I'll be darned if I can get the center vent to come out. That is preventing me from getting to the screws that hold the rest of the frame and carrier in the dash, so I'm stuck.

Any tips on how to remove the center vent on a 2004? I read the shop manual but it is not very clear. I've been prying in different places with a small screw driver but whereever the clip is, I haven't released it yet because the vent is still solidly in there.

Any help or pics would be appreciated.

Karl